Hey guys.

I started the car this morning and let it warm up for 3 or 4 minutes before running my son to school. When I went back out, the check engine light was on. It was on all day whenever I would sneak out of work and turn it on.

On the way to pick up my boys tonight I stopped at Autozone. They pulled codes P0174 and P1111. They recommend I check my air filter and add some fuel system cleaner to start.

The light was on when I went to get the boys. Then when I got back in the car to drive home, it was off and stayed off for the 15 minute trip home.

Anything I need to worry about?

Btw, it has 55k miles on it.

Thanks in advance.

 

p0174 is normally a vacuum leak with our cars. I would check the valve on your brake booster, Check your IMT o-rings, and check that your pcv valve hose isn't cracked on the bottom.

Do all of that after you've put cleaner and a new filter in there though

 

The first code is nothing to be concerned about. You will always see either P1000 or P1111.

P1111: system checks complete since last memory clear

P0174: bank 2 combustion too lean

Possible Causes
1. Engine misfire
2. Air intake leak between MAF sensor and throttle
3. Fuel filter / system restriction
4. Fuel injector restriction
5. Fuel pressure sensor failure (low fuel pressure)
6. Low fuel pump output
7. HO2 sensors 2/1, 2/2 harness wiring fault
8. Exhaust leak before catalyst
9. ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following sensors - ECT, MAF, IAT, IP, TFT, TP

Item (1) should have been obvious from loss of power. Items (2) to (8) don't go away without attention.

Presumably Autozone cleared the codes as the MIL was out on the way home?

Watch out for a recurrence. If it's anything in items (2) to (8), the MIL will come back on after two drive cycles.

Graham

 

Very cool. Thanks for the replies, guys.

Autozone didn't clear it because it was on when I went to grandma's to pick up the boys. It seems to have just gone out by itself.

Can't hurt to start with a fresh air filter and cleaner, check my hoses and booster valve. I'll see if it comes back and then at least I have a direction to go.

 

Just make sure to check the BOTTOM of the booster valve! I got 2mpg better just from stopping my vacuum leaks

 

I wonder if it is the brand of gasoline I have been using. Up until recently I was using Shell's super ultra mega special 93 octane (or whatever they call it). This past weekend I filled up at Kroger so I could use my points.

This morning I added some Gumout fuel system cleaner and topped off the tank at Shell. Next step is to find someone who has a replacement air filter. Autozone has an STP filter for $13 or I could order a K&N for $47. I suppose I could scope out eBay for a K&N as well.

 

Had the same code when my IMT Valve O-rings needed replacement, easy job takes about 10 mins rings are very cheap but hard to find.

 

If you know a lot about K&N's then take them, but there are always mixed reviews out there about them. I just stick to the stp

 

Likely a vacuum leak. Your CEL stayed on until you had a few starts even though the condition may not have been present anymore. Likely will happen more often as the weather gets colder. Search p0174 in this section and there is a plethora of information on the three most likely leaky candidates.

 

nothing to do with gas, you have a vacuum leak and thats it. the only reason the light went out is the ecu doesnt see the leak again after the engine warmed up. but its still there, (the fault and the code)
replace the imt orings if theyre original yellow with the sealant covered green ones, install a new "ribbed pcv hose and slip heat shrink(1") over the booster check valve and seal it. all this would be less than a tank of gas if you do it yourself. Buy a scanner so you can pull and clear your own codes, theyre not much money anymore. The more you learn and do for yourself, the less the cost of ownership for ANY car. Dont worry Ill still make money cause in this day and age its still hard to find techs that really know what theyre doing on a car front to rear. Worlds full of mechanics

 

I am getting the impression that it might be a vacuum leak.

Now, the IMT, is that Intake Manifold Top? If so, at 56k miles, should I go ahead and switch out the spark plugs since I'll have the top of the manifold off already to replace the o-rings?

Edit... Aha, IMT valves on the passenger side of the engine, not intake manifold. Whew!

 

Update:

The SES light was out for a while, then came back on the other day. Yesterday, I finally got around to getting some IMT o-rings and replacing the original yellow ones that were still in the car. I also picked up stuff to do an oil change and a new air filter. Oh, and an Actron pocket scanner.

So, I cleared the codes and took it for a drive. The SES light was still on. When I checked the codes I had P1532. After plugging the sensor back in on the lower IMT, and clearing the code, the light has been off.

I just did a drive to Chicago and back this weekend, and no light, so I am thinking I might have taken care of the problem.

I got some Mobil 1, a Mobil 1 oil filter, and an STP air filter. Going to do the oil change tomorrow. Anything I need to know? Am I supposed to fill the new oil filter before spinning it on? Any good jacking / jackstand points?

 

congrats and NO, if you do that youll get oil all over since it sits sidewalls on the engine. Youre already gonna get oil all over when you take it off on the exhaust which is par for the course with a X

 

congrats and NO, if you do that youll get oil all over since it sits sideways on the engine. Youre already gonna get oil all over when you take it off on the exhaust which is par for the course with a X

 

The filter is sideways on the block? Hmm. Didn't know that. Still lots of things to learn about this car.

Thanks for the info!

 

Well about 45* but enough to make a big mess