I have been having the dreaded gearbox fault and have just realized a cable connected to the EGR is split. Can this cause the gearbox fault issue (I will be glad if this is my issue).

My main question really is what is the name (and part number) of the cable marked A in this picture.

My car is a 2008 automatic saloon with the 2.2 diesel engine in case that makes a difference.

Thank you.

 

I just looked thru the X-Type Parts-Catalogue, but could not find any wiring in there. Anyway, a "cable" would be e.g. a cable going to the handbrake. What you marked with "A" is the engine wiring loom or engine wiring harness. Sourcing it would be a nightmare - replacing it an even bigger nightmare. What about fixing the affected cables in that loom? Cheers, Peter

 

Looking at the OP's photo....the "split" mentioned appears to be the normal lengthwise cut in the manufacturers ribbed plastic Armour sheathing which is then over-wound by the final wiring loom wrap.
Doesn't appear to have sustained damage....so I am with Pete......if you suspect a wiring fault, you should just identify which wires and then continuity check with a multi-meter to verify a defect, then either locate and repair the break point or run a new single wire.

However, would it not be best to plug in an OBD11 diagnostic reader and see what failure codes the car is reporting to then narrow down your list of suspects?
You could have wheel sensors not providing rotational feedback, transmission control module issues, J-Gate switch or controller issues...don't fall into the trap of parts replacing without decent diagnostics to narrow down the suspect pool.

B.T.W......A wrecker or breaker is probably your best chance of finding a replacement wiring harness if you do come to that conclusion, as if you did seek out and find a new correct harness - you are likely looking at around 1500 pounds.
Jaguar capable code readers depending on model will set you back just a fraction of this and you can them post your codes on this site and members will pitch in and help with their suggestions.

 

Thank you both for the reply. I didn't look at that cable properly, I thought it was a vacuum/gas line. On closer inspection, it was just a cable to shield some electrical wires so I doubt a little opening is what is causing my issue.

@h2o2steam , thanks for the suggestion. I wanted to scan but my generic obd reader is not detecting any fault. I had an appointment with my mechanic today to have the code read and the following codes were present:

1. U0001-00
High Speed CAN Communication Bus
Historic

2. P1719-00
Engine Torque Signal
Intermittent

3. P0896-00
Shift Time is Too Long
Pending

4 P1719A
CAN Link Engine Control Module/turbocharger Boost Control A Actuator Circuit Malfunction
Pending

5 P1700
Transmission Indeterminate Failure (Failed To Neutral)
Pending

He cleared the fault and told me some of them could have been stored for a long time and to see if any comes back. About one mile two mile after this, I got the coil and gearbox fault message again. The fault only seems to happen when the car is warm. When cold, it works ok with no issue. I can occasionally clear the message by turning on and off while driving but that only works until the car gets properly warm and even doing that will not clear the error. Shut off the car and wait for maybe 20/30 minutes and there is no error for about 3-5 miles until it gets up to temperature again.

A bit of history, I had the Gearbox fault issue around March and I removed and replaced the turbo actuator with another one bought from . The old one was smelling burnt but the two jumper wires looked ok. That cured the problem and it was working ok until about 2 months ago and it started happening once every two weeks but the frequency increases until it started happening every journey with more than 10 miles now.

Any pointers from those error codes?

 

Mhhhh... - swell, maybe it really takes someone like me, who's job it once was to do the design panning for wiring loom routing in the engine compartment to tell the wiring loom from a gas line...

And correct: Driving your car to a garage to have the error codes read is pretty much pointless: I once considered this and was told I have to wait for 2 weeks and pay 60 AUD. It was clear to me that this would be pointless, because as you said: You will get all the old read-outs. But then I bought an XTOOLTECH X100 PAD - mainly to be able to self-program new remotes for new keys for the S-Type - that X100 promised to be able to do it, but that was not true. Anyway, that scanner is not too bad, back then it cost about AU$500 I think (alibaba), and I once could use it to fix a XJ8 I just bought: It was in limp mode, and the scanner told me correctly that it was the knock sensors. Thus, buying a good scanner might be a good idea for someone, who can also fix his own cars.

Back to your problem:
I hope you are aware that your car-troubles were already discussed on this forum a few times and that you read those threads already. If not:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-fault-177545/
I just went thru this thread and as always someone will say that the battery needs to OK and fully charged (well, know knows - maybe it helps in some cases). And one thing I also thought of myself: Make sure that your gearbox TF-level is correct - and no, there is no "check-bolt" which you can open and check - many people thought they found such a bolt, removed it, and now they don't have a reverse gear anymore... But obviously, if you did had TF-leak-spots under your X-Type in the past, this means that you have lost TF and that you are low. Other than that: The rumour that TF fluid is for life is nonsense - but it is a stubborn rumour. "For life" can only be considered as "true", if you accept that your X-Type is now past it's lifetime according to Jaguar definition... A TF change is a good idea - obviously - as always, you need to know how and what you are doing there...

But one thing stands out as solution in the tread above: The EGR valve!

Cheers Peter

 

If memory serves me correctly, while you were diagnosing your original EGR issues you had a spring issue and either remade a end to the spring or rewound it tighter to get the valve returning.
Perhaps that physical alteration has come back to haunt you in some way.

 

That is not me or my memory is fading.

 

I will love for it to be the EGR! I am just about to give up on this x type because of the multitude of issues. I am just making a decision whether to take it to a garage for proper diagnostic or to get shot of it rather than throwing parts at it. It is such a shame as it is a nice car when it works and just had a new MOT two weeks ago.

 

Sorry....seemed like a diagnostic conversation I had just a couple of months ago.
My memory is playing tricks on me. ;-)

 

I have another question. To troubleshoot, I check the fuse box in the engine compartment as seen below



I then cross checked this again the fuse box diagram in the handbook below:



Fuse 11 is for the automatic TCM and should be 15A but currently there is 5A there. I am thinking this may be one of the cause of one or errors being detected (the gearbox fault seems to predates me buying the car 3 years ago and this 5A fuse has been there since) but before I go ahead and replace with one of the spare 15A fuse, can anyone tell me if there is a reason the 5A fuse could have been used.

I will replace and report back if there is any improvement.

 

There is no reason to use a fuse of a lower value as specified other than those 2 reasons:
1.) No other fuse was at hand, and owner is too ignorant to get the correct fuse.
2.) New kind of party-game: Insert a fuse, which is too low, and place bets on if it lasts or not...

Anyway, if the fuse last nevertheless, this cannot be the reason for any kind of fault message (assuming of course that the fuse is not a goner already...) An a-OK-fuse means "contact", a RIP-fuse means "no contact. There is no Schroediger-cat like intermediate state.

Cheers, Peter

 

Thanks Peter. That makes sense.

 

Also according to the schematic F32 (15A) in the power distribution fuse box is also associated to the TCM module.
You picture shows that to be the correct fuse size, but while you are checking fuses you might as well verify that on too is OK.

 

@h2o2steam Eh? 32?




Third possibility, previous owner got some odd Google result that automatic transmission control module takes a 5 Amp fuse (on the cabin panel) & just stuck that size in the hood box?

 

Hi Dell,

That "onboard diagnostics" reference has me a bit puzzled.
Images below plucked direct from the MY2005 and beyond schematic diagram.....

Three distinct B+ supply pins into TCM, two are paralleled up.


Here is reference #8 source

Here is reference #22 & 23 source.

 

@h2o2steam I did happen to look at the pre 2004+ fuse diagram and that did match your post but OP said his is a 2008. IDK, I'm not an electrical whiz like you and some others (looking at you Thermo *wink*)

Both pre and post fuse box diagrams
https://knigaproavto.ru/shemy/en/jag...x-diagram.html

 

My last post seemed to have got screwed up....several images did not appear, so didn't make much sense - sorry.
I was referencing the MY2005 and later schematic which should be valid for the OP's 2008, so will try again with the other images as initially intended.

 

Here's something I have never heard of or ever seen. We all seem to know about the 2004.5 (many, many times incorrectly called a 2004.25). Note the 2005 and THEN a 2005.5! Wth? And another change in my year 2006 AND 2006.25. Where did this ever raise it's head? Lol!!

 

I checked that and that fuse was ok. Unfortunately, changing the fuse did not solve my issue. It is now going to a mechanic for proper diagnostic and repair. I will report back with any diagnosis to help others.

Sorry for late reply, I have been very busy at work. All help much appreciated.

 

Update: the problem is the turbo actuator. I had originally ruled it out because I had the same issue around March that was solved by replacing the turbo actuator with the one bought from Amazon linked in post number 4 ( ). I ruled it out because when I initially replaced it, it solved the problem immediately and the symptoms were different.

With the old turbo, the computer goes into limp mode as soon as I start the car and try to move, and I can't restart the car while move to clear the code. With the new issue, the limp mode occurred once I have driven between 5 and 12 miles, and I can sometimes manage to restart the car while moving and it will clear the issue.

I was prompted to look at the turbo actuator again by the two codes below:

P1719-00
Engine Torque Signal
Intermittent

4 P179A
CAN Link Engine Control Module/turbocharger Boost Control A Actuator Circuit Malfunction
Pending

So I removed the turbo actuator initially to check for dry joints as discussed here but I quickly noticed the new actuator is different from my old one which I kept. As you can see, my error codes are different from that experienced by that poster. The new one looked like:



whereas my old one looked like this (not my picture, from internet):

Despite the two having exactly the same part number. I am not sure if there is a revision of the actuator that looked like my new one or the Chinese manufacturer has decided to change the design to their copy (the original ones was made in Germany). I didn't take the picture of my old one so I found similar ones on the internet. But in my old actuator, all the jumper wires were ok and this is why I initially bought the one from Amazon. However, what I did notice were black dusts (like powder coal) as if something has burnt up in it. So, I decided to spray it with electrical contact cleaner (I used this but any other ones will likely work) and properly washed both parts of the actuator with it and let it dry then refit it back to the car.

Since I did that last week, I have not experienced the limp mode once and have done close to 300 miles. I decided to wait to cover more distance before posting here. I will post once I have done about 1000 miles or hopefully not, if the issue comes back.

I almost sold the car last week and I am so glad it is working ok now. Thanks a to everyone for your help.