Where is the diagnostic port X-type

hey there, Graham has already replied to your post in the new members section with a picture showing the location
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...g-where-77152/
Phill, no need to remove any plastic. stick your head down in the footwell and you will see it right there. May need a flashlight the first time finding it as the port is made from black plastic and hides really well in the shadows. But, once you find it, you will be able to find it just by sticking your hand under the dash.
Hi Guys
Thanks for your help, plugged in the diagnostic tool probably wish I hadnt though , I have 4 codes come up that I cant seem to get a definitive explanation for , they are P1637, P1642 and pending codes P1000 and P1111
The reason I wanted to check the codes was every so often I would get the ABS light and handbrake light come on and at the same time I would lose my speedo and odometer , this normally sorted itself out when the car was switched off and restarted , after using the diagnostic tool it decided it was not going to reset itself .however to cut a long story short I had to drive 70 miles home last night so I decided to go for it without the speedo , after a while the speedo came back to life and the brake light went out , but left the ABS light on . I suspect this maybe something to do with the abs control unit . Has anyone experienced anything similar ???????
Thanks for your help, plugged in the diagnostic tool probably wish I hadnt though , I have 4 codes come up that I cant seem to get a definitive explanation for , they are P1637, P1642 and pending codes P1000 and P1111
The reason I wanted to check the codes was every so often I would get the ABS light and handbrake light come on and at the same time I would lose my speedo and odometer , this normally sorted itself out when the car was switched off and restarted , after using the diagnostic tool it decided it was not going to reset itself .however to cut a long story short I had to drive 70 miles home last night so I decided to go for it without the speedo , after a while the speedo came back to life and the brake light went out , but left the ABS light on . I suspect this maybe something to do with the abs control unit . Has anyone experienced anything similar ???????
P1637 is communication bus fault on Jaguars... That one is probably an artifact of the connection software.
P1642 = Fuel Pump Monitor Circuit High Input. (Have you performed any work with the fuel pumps lately? - maybe this is a archived code)
P1000 - OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete and P111 - OBD-II Monitor Testing Complete - I have never seen both P1000 and P1111 come up at the same time. It should be one or the other.
Based on what you said above I would certainly start off by checking your battery as a failing or weak battery will tend to get the OBD-II to fire off random codes and cause all sort of weird issues. Good Luck.
P1642 = Fuel Pump Monitor Circuit High Input. (Have you performed any work with the fuel pumps lately? - maybe this is a archived code)
P1000 - OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete and P111 - OBD-II Monitor Testing Complete - I have never seen both P1000 and P1111 come up at the same time. It should be one or the other.
Based on what you said above I would certainly start off by checking your battery as a failing or weak battery will tend to get the OBD-II to fire off random codes and cause all sort of weird issues. Good Luck.
+1 on the Monitor Testing codes
P1000 appears whenever the DTC's have been cleared and remains until monitoring is complete. It is then replaced by P1111 - it's not stored additionally.
Graham
P1000 appears whenever the DTC's have been cleared and remains until monitoring is complete. It is then replaced by P1111 - it's not stored additionally.
Graham
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Thanks Steve .
Is it just a matter of flashing it or do you have to hold it on there a bit longer , itsounds a bit drastic but if it sorts it out so beit . It has just had a new battery when I bought it in april
Is it just a matter of flashing it or do you have to hold it on there a bit longer , itsounds a bit drastic but if it sorts it out so beit . It has just had a new battery when I bought it in april
Hold it on for 20 seconds or so - it discharges the capacitors in the various processor modules and sort of forces a re-boot.
Be sure to reconnect the earth cleanly in one move, not dither with it or that can confuse the old girl.
Make sure you've got the radio codes if you need them.
With an XK you also need to reset the windows after (all the way down, hold the switch 5 secs, all the way up hold 5 secs) I don't know if this applies to your car.
Be sure to reconnect the earth cleanly in one move, not dither with it or that can confuse the old girl.
Make sure you've got the radio codes if you need them.
With an XK you also need to reset the windows after (all the way down, hold the switch 5 secs, all the way up hold 5 secs) I don't know if this applies to your car.
Last edited by steveinfrance; Jul 24, 2012 at 02:49 AM.
hi the speedo coming and going and the abs light is usually signs of a rusting corroding abs ring on the rear drive shafts. Eventually these will fall off bringing up abs light permanently along with no abs. Rings can be bought seperately no matter what people might tell you about having to buy the cv joint aswell.
Ryan
Ryan
Hi i have a 2.2 diesel 05 reg. the car overheats when going up hills otherwise temp remains stable in all other driving conditions. Had new rad new thermostat and fan relay. Any ideas please
petal, first off, welcome to the forums. I think you will find a lot of very helpful people around here and pretty clear and concise explanations. But, we do ask a simple thing from you too. Please stop by the "New Member" section and introduce yourself. We are quirky that way. We like to get to know one another and be friendly. This will also give you a chance to learn who the movers and shakers are around these parts.
As for your problem, I would be venturing to guess that your water pump is starting to go and it is not flowing as much as it should. This will lead to overheating conditions under sustained heavy loads but not during normal running. So, I would say to replace the water pump and then as they are putting everything back together, have them do a flush of the coolant system just to make sure that you don't have gunk built up in the radiator affecting its ability to remove heat. From there, you should be golden.
As for your problem, I would be venturing to guess that your water pump is starting to go and it is not flowing as much as it should. This will lead to overheating conditions under sustained heavy loads but not during normal running. So, I would say to replace the water pump and then as they are putting everything back together, have them do a flush of the coolant system just to make sure that you don't have gunk built up in the radiator affecting its ability to remove heat. From there, you should be golden.
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