Exactly, Billbjork - the PCV valve! It rattles but it must be stuck open for this hypothesis to work - it's the gate keeper for the whole system. Doesn't matter if manifold vacuum is pulling from the crankcase or from the outside through a gasket leak - the PCV should adjust to keep everything in balance. I did find what I would call "considerable" oil in the intake manifold and I did the "rattle test" and it was OK, but I'm going to replace it anyway. I already replaced the PCV hose and it's not restricted.

And...combine a PCV valve that's stuck open with a gasket leak, and you get...a lean mixture, which causes...engine knock, which causes...my P-0333 code!

Actually, considering they run about $30, has anyone had any luck cleaning one with carb cleaner or some kind of solvent?

If this solves the Cruise message problem, then I'm moving on to fixing the water rail leak, +/- replacing the KS if this doesn't resolve the DTC. No, never heard a knock and I use premium gas.

 

What are the LTFT values like?

 

LTFTs are around +2.5 in one bank and +5 in the other. Not bad or enough to trigger a lean DTC, but I only get the code at cold start-up so I'm thinking a rush of dilute mix hits the engine triggering a couple of knocks before the ECM can respond by increasing the pulse width of the injectors. Once I clear the DTC, it doesn't return until the next cold start-up.

Reasonable?

 

OK, so that hypothesis has been debunked. I clamped the PCV hose and the Cruise message remains; no change. I also replaced both the fuel purge line and brake booster o-rings and plastic sleeves (left the brass grommets) where they attach to the intake manifold. Needed to be done (o-rings broke into pieces when I pulled them out) but, again, no change - Cruise message remains.

If anyone needs it, the part number for the seals (includes o-ring, brass grommet, and plastic sleeve) is C2S15816. $12 from dealer.

I also thought there might be a leak somewhere in the fuel purge system, so I put a plug in the opening in the intake - no change.

So...I'm all out of ideas. Anyone?

 

Maybe a clogged or restricted Catalytic Convertor?

Possibly high back-pressure could be mimicking a low vacuum condition, throwing you a false code about the knock sensor? Or even giving you a knock, due to a down-stream O2 sensor thinking you're running rich and over-compensating?

Shoot the cats with an infrared temp gun after a good drive and see if they are reading near the same. Maybe check the O2 voltage readings and see if they're within specs for voltages. (If you look at them and they ain't honest-to-god Jaguar O2 sensors, replace them with the 'real deals').

Take the car out and drive it fast fast fast - like you just stole it - for an extended period of time and miles, maybe that will help clear things up.

(Print this particular advice out to show the State Trooper in case you get pulled over, maybe he'll have mercy on you, as his ticket and any increase in your insurance as a result is still NOWHERE as expensive as a visit to a Jaguar Dealership!).

(Maybe also include a few print-outs of 2002 X-Types from Ebay, so he understands it is a $2,500 USD car, and not a $65,000 one).

Best 'o luck, but I do think that the thorough process of elimination you're working will soon find the cause. Personally, I'm leaning towards JagV8's call on a corroded connector somewhere.

 

Thanks for the advice - I'll check that! Another thought: my oil filler cap o-ring is shot. Any experience with a leaky filler cap causing drivability problems?

And don't get me started on my thoughts on this vehicle. I don't know who thought combining the European car maker with the worst quality reputation with the American maker with the 2nd worst reputation would result in a quality product.

 

Oil filler cap and dipstick O rings will give u problems if shot, u are introducing unfiltered and unmeasured air into the system. I cured an occasional drop in idle rpm just by replacing the dipstick O ring.
If the rings are bad then u WILL have a vacuum leak

 

Dont bash the marque's.... Surely, if ur driving a car with that many issues, including a coolant reservior at only 1/4 full, surely most of the blame lays with the owner?
Im tired of hearing about how unreliable jags are/were. Jaguar was at the forefront of fuel injection technology, and of course there were teething problems with such "advanced" new technology. They were way ahead of their time.
I have restored mid 80's jags and they can be difficult to diagnose unless one has a full understanding of the entire system and the way all of the sensors work.
One should drive a jaguar for the love of driving a jaguar, quirks n all. If having to make an unwanted journey does not thrill you as you have another chance to drive your jag, then its time to move on....

 

I agree I've had 4 bmw's and there rubbish compared to my x type best car I've ever had

 

Hi everyone! For those who have been following my hunt for the ellusive cause of my Cruise message and P0333 code, I have good news - I solved it: bad thermostat. My operating temps were running baseline 190-degrees, and approached 200 during highway driving. Not enough to overheat, but enough for the ECM to see that the coolant temp was higher than it thought it should be given engine load and ambient temp. Not knowing what the operating temp range should be, I didn't even think to look there.

This also explains why I would get the Cruise message at cold startup for a minute or so (it had the concern in memory from the previous drive cycle), then it would go away, then come back 10-15 minutes later for the remainder of the trip. Not sure exactly how the P0333 code figured in, but it hasn't come back so "if it's not broken..."

What a process this has been! At least I now have the icing on the cake of absolutely NO vacuum leaks!

And to those I may have irritated with my last comment about quality, please don't confuse utter exasperation that has built over months with anything other than just that. That particular day, I wanted to re-enact the fax machine scene from Office Space on my car. In retrospect, I should have kept my "heat-of-the-moment" comment to myself and not contributed to the already heated debates in these fora, but I didn't - please don't hold it against me.

 

Hi everyone - the problem is back and same as before. Started again once the outside temp warmed-up. I just replaced the PCV valve and load tested the battery/charging system again and no change. One new thing I noticed is that the fuel gauge starts to jump around once the fuel level gets to about 1/3 tank and I saw a TSB on a common problem with the fuel sender. Does anyone know if a bad fuel level sender might cause "cruise not available"?

I'm back to square one - any new words of wisdom out there?!

 

Sorry to hear that. My pearl, fwiw - don't assume the part that resulted in the "fix" last time is still good just because it is new-ish. Check it is still working, possibly before doing anything else.
That's caught me out once.

Good luck!

 

Thanks, Danny! I thought of that, too, so I've been watching the temp with my Ethos and stays between 181 and 183 most of the time - sometimes gets up to low 190's in stop-and-go traffic.

Funny thing is, though, that I opened the coolant reservoir on Friday when it was still warm and somewhat pressurized to top it off, and it vented some coolant through the vent hose. I topped it off, and the next drive cycle the "cruise" message went away. A couple drive cycles later, the MIL turned off. Neither has returned through this morning.

Does anyone know if the X-Type has a cooling system pressure sensor? Or if having air in the system might cause a "cruise" message?

 

WJBELL. Full disclosure, I am not a mechanic, but I took on 'fixing up' my x-type after the same thing happened to me. It seems to me that whenever the car gets anywhere to limp mode for whatever mechanical reason that 'cruise not available' message comes on. As you can see from my previous post, i changed out a lot of things based on around 7 errors I was getting. What finally did it for me was changing the plugs and coils along with the intake gaskets. Not sure if that is remotely close to your issue but did want to make the statement about the cruise message. Also, I did see a difference when I changed the fuel filter... it was the original. No more codes, messages or lights and the car is running like a charm now. Good Luck!

 

So it turns out the problem was solely the knock sensor. The sensor itself (that connects to the block) was cracked and gunky from the leaky coolant pipe above it (fixed that, too). I'm glad I went through this process since it forced me to do a lot of maintenance that she was due for anyway, but it sure was frustrating! Anyway, thank you to everyone who chimed in, answered my questions, and gave me support!