Hello there, first time in this forum coz I just bought a 2001 x-type 2.5V6 Auto in UK mid july.
So far the car was working perfectly, I drove back the car to south of France end of july, everything fine, like 1500km. Then I made a road trip in august after some servicing during 10days, french alps, switzerland, autrian tyrol, bavaria, paris and back to Toulouse my home city. Just one problem in Innsbruck after an heavy shower on the road (but don't know if it is related), I parked the car for 1 hour for shopping and the car didn't to start again during half an hour ; I mean, when the starter button is turned, nothing happened except some strange little noises behind the front panel. I incriminated the battery, or the alarm (the electronic part of my key is not working, I only close doors and engaged alarm using the mechnical key). So after that, I starts again and worked perfectly for two weeks.
Then last week, again the same problem (the weather was humid) and I was not able again to restart the car.

The battery looks strong coz except the two times I had problems, it starts perfectly and without any effort. I tried already to bypass the negative cable using an external cable connected between the negative of the battery and the frame. I suspect a kind of anti starting problem related to the alarm, given I cannot off it with the electronic key (I ordered one new in Jaguar garage), but not sure.

So before I put the car on a trailor to the next jaguar garage (130 km), I need some advice to avoid this extreme solution (and costly for sure).

Thanks

 

When you turn the key to the on position, then turn on the interior blower for the heat and a/c, do you get a strong blast of air, or is really weak? If it's weak then I would point towards to security system like you indicated, however I wouldn't rule out the battery yet without truly testing it to its limits.

 

Thanks Disguay, I gonna try that.

 

Blamis, I have a few things for you to try. Just to make sure that we are talking the same thing. When the problem is happening, when you put the key to the START (III) position, the motor does not move. No sound of the starter attempting to engage (either a thump or a whirring/grinding sound)?

Also, how are you with using a multimeter? I will try to tailor the checks you do to your ability. Even if you have a little knowledge, I can walk you through everything.

 

Hi Thermo, thanks ; no move of the engine, no noise of the starter, just little noises behind the front panel, and some vibrations of the speed and rpm meters. Also, the miles versus km selection come back to miles on the electronic display in the font panel.
Yes I have a multimeter and I am supposed to know how to use it, ready to follow your tests as soon as I will be close to the car ; I am currently working in my home city Toulouse,and the jag decided to let me down at my dad place, at 150km distance
:=(

 

blamis, ok, start by opening up the bonnet of your car and accessing the fuse box. I want you to remove relay R10. Now, look on the back of the relay and you should see next to each post a number (1 thru 5). Now, relate those numbers to the holes in the fuse box. Using a short piece of wire (16 gauge) with the last 5-10mm of copper exposed on each end, stick the wire between the holes for #3 and #5. Did the motor turn over (or atleast make a loud click)? If no, then using a multimeter, insert the red lead into the #3 slot and touch the black lead to the engine (any part that is metal). Do you get 12 VDC? If no, then check fuse F29 (20 amp fuse) in the fuse box to make sure that it is seated well and in there firmly. May want to swap the fuse with another one of the same rating and then retry the check to see if things change. If they do, the fuse is bad, replace it. If you got 12 VDC, then you will need to move the red lead over to the post on the starter that has the yellow wire. With the multimeter connected, insert the jumper wire like before. Did the multimeter jump to 12 VDC (11.0 or higher)? If yes, then we are looking at either a bad starter, bad battery, or the battery cable is toast (more on this in a moment). If the multimeter is less than 11.0 VDC, then you have a wiring problem between the fuse box and the starter. A new wire will need to be run.

If on the first check the starter turned the motor over, insert the multimeter into pin #1 and have the black lead touching anything metal. Now, using the key, attempt to start the car (yes, it will not start because the relay is not installed). Did the multimeter jump to 12 VDC? If no, then your problem is a bad ignition switch or the wire between the ignition switch and fuse box is bad. If you got 12 VDC, then insert the multimeter's red lead into the #2 slot and touch the black lead to any metal part of the car as you are measuring resistance. Attempt to start the car again. Did the multimeter jump from a high resistance to a low resistance (something under 10 ohms). If yes, then odds are your relay is bad. Remove the relay in the R1 position (relay goes to the wipers) and install it in the R10 position. Your car should start normally now. If the multimeter remains at a high resistance, let me know as you have a computer issue and we need to investigate it further.

If you are suspecting that you have a bad starter motor or starter cable, place the red lead on the large terminal on the starter (make sure not to touch any surrounding metal as this WILL!!!! result in a nice spark) and the black lead to any metal part of the engine. Have a second person insert the wire into the #3 and #5 slots. Did the multimeter remain at 12.6 VDC, drop to around 11.5 VDC, or drop to something under 11.0 VDC? If you got 12.6 VDC or something around 11.5 VDC, then this confirms you have a bad starter. Replace the starter. If you got something under 11.0 VDC, then move the multimeter to the battery posts (hold them to the large post in the center of the clamp post, not on the battery cable clamp, red to the + post, black to the - post). Attempt insert the jumper again. Did the multimeter remain above 11.5 VDC or did it drop under 11.0 VDC? Above 11.5 VDC, then you have a bad battery cable (replace both cables since even if it is only 1 cable that is bad, the other is probably not too far behind). If it fell to under 11.0 VDC, then you have a bad battery.

If you have any questions, let me know. do not forget to restore the car to as you found it when all done. Hopefully it is something that I have covered here and it is not something with the computer.

 

Thanks Thermo, I will try this whole procedure next friday before bringing there the trailor and hopefully I can avoid to put the car on it. All the best, I keep you informed.

 

Dear Disguay and Thermo
I am back at home with the jag, thanks it works.
I started try to figure out if it is related to the alarm system, and you suggest Disguay, the aircon blows at high power so I eliminated the alarm.
Even if the battery seems ok the whole last month, I start your checks Thermo by the end and the test reveals that the battery is weak finally close to 11V when trying to start engine. After a quick charge the car started again, wouahhh. Thanks guys. The strange thing which misleading me is that it seems that below a given voltage, like 11V, the starter dont even move slowly. Good to know, I was use to batteries in short cut or ageeing battery but the starter and engine move slowly and eventually dont start, but first time I see a car where starter seems disconnected.
Thanks again guys for your avice and take care.
Bruno xtype v6 -2.5 auto

 

Hi guys, still some electric problem. When I bought my xtype, the remote was not working and I was using the mechanic key to open, close. Since then I bought the electronic part of the key from a jaguar garage in Toulouse . They paired the key with the car, everything look great but since some days, the electronic key is working only sometimes. I checked the battery, which is brand new, 3.2 v, seems ok since it supposed to be 3v. One more information, all the doors are working with the mechanical key. Thanks for help guys
Bruno xtype v6 2.5