Gonna be raspy as hell down low and on cold days. I would go out and venture it would be down right annoying.

I have no idea what the diameter of the stock piping is, but if you really wanted to get some added noise value, cut the resonator out and place a magnaflow round body. I would venture a 20" pipe would do.

Putting on a straight pipe is going to be down right annoying and stupid on a Jaguar. I would put a round body in if you had to. At the very least do a glasspack if budget is a big thing.

 

ancient, I think what he was getting at was replacing only the resonator with a piece of straight pipe, not replacing everything back from the resonator.

Yes, I agree that running straight pipe from the resonator back would not be a good move.

 

oh thanx thermo
i know it but i dont know what do u call it in english

but i did Cut it out and welding a straight pipe , when i fixed my mufflers

luv the growl

 

Today I spoke with the mechanic at the repair/muffler shop. He began dissassembly of existing engine and understands the Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC exhaust manifold swap. I picked up 1999 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC exhaust manifold gaskets at auto part store. As mentioned in earlier posts: attached to manifolds will be 2 1/2 pipe cont. to free-er flowing cats (with stock O2 sensors) placed as close (but not bolted directly to exhaust manifolds) to engine as possible to attain max. heating of cats., then 2 1/2 pipe cont. onwards and over rear axle to magnaflows with larger than stock oval tips. A modified airbox (w/K&N air filter) and ported intake manifold will allow more flow. I'm not going further than these mods and not really needing much more than I have, I'm curious to see if these basic mods could achieve approx. 40 h.p and 20 lb./ft. torque. Perhaps in the future I may arrange an AWD chassis dyno to confirm this while also remapping ECU. Another "X" (known as racerx82 from RoadFly's Jaguar X-Type forum) owner achieved 300 normally aspirated h.p. before turbocharging his to the tune of 325 h.p. at the wheels, while not killing the TC. His total invetment was 7 grand. He sold the car barely coming ahead of his invetment. I'll keep ya all posted.

 

In addendum to my previous engine swap post, I wish to mention that the exhaust will be a single 2 1/2" pipe design. A single but larger diameter exhaust is needed to maintain suitable backpressure.

 

I actually read recently all backpressure is bad. In lower speeds you may not have the same torque but in the upper speeds less backpressure equals more horsepower.

 

04xtype04, you are correct, any backpressure is bad. The trick comes when you need to get off the line. Backpressure at low RPMs helps to create torque (which is what is actually accelerating the car, not horsepower). Sure, you can step on the gas more to make the torque, but then you are making for a very inefficient system. Next comes the question of where the system now becomes as efficient (or more efficient) with "no backpressure" compared to a system with some back pressure. If that point is above say 2500 RPM, you are going to go through more fuel during normal every day driving. If you can make it come down to say 2000 RPM, it would actually be a good thing as you can raise the overall efficiency (and therefore mileage) of the car. But, if this was the case, I bet you would find that every automotive manufacturer would be running the freest exhaust system they could to get even that extra 0.5 mpg.

I do not argue that up at say 5,000 RPM the "no backpressure" system is going to be superior to even a low restriction exhaust system. But in reality, how often are you at 5,000 RPM in relation to time at 2,500 RPM? If you are making your car into a drag strip only car, then yes, make those pipes as big as you can and get rid of everything possible. You want something for going down the highway and get decent mileage, you need some back pressure. This leads to the question of "what is the necessary amount of back pressure?". This is where engineers get paid big money to figure that out and where a little tweaking of the system by the car owner comes into play as the engineer has to build a single system that meets what "everyone" wants and the car owner can modify the system some to be more in tune with how they drive. Hence why a knowledgeable mechanic can install a freer system and get a car that makes more power and get better mileage. But, they also don't completely gut the system and run the exhaust open either.

 

Talk about a resurrection haha.
Thermo of course has once again hit the proverbial nail on the head. The thing with building a tuned exhaust is you first have to figure out where you want to make power, and if you are more concerned with HP or TQ. The trick is to find a balance that is free flowing enough, but not too much. You also have to take into account other mods, forced induction and engine size. These aren't big v8s so 3inch dual pipes is just a waste of money and added weight. When I get around to having mine built, since I dont have a shop or welder to do it myself, I'm going to have dual 2inch pipe with an x pipe ran from the stock pipes that come off the cats just before they merge into one and go into the flex pipe. Unless I get around to installing those headers I have, then I'll have them run the same way, just off the headers merge pipes.

 

Hi,guys I really need help..my x type when I start her in the morning she sounds quiet & fine..but once she's switched off & I start her after about an hour later she sounds very rowdy as if she has a leak in the exhaust towards the manifold...but as she warms up the sound tends to go away.Please any suggestions or advice will really help.Thanks a mill.BASH

 

Bash, I would be betting that you either have a broken exhaust manifold bolt or one of the clamps under the car has broken. But, without getting under the car, it is hard to say what it is. A local exhaust shop should be able to do a "free" inspection for you. I call it free as they will almost always find a problem and want you to do the work there. The best advice that I can say is to have them show you what the problem is and then you can make a decision from there. If they don't want to show you the problem, then tell the shop that you want to get a second opinion. if they give you the "the car is not safe to drive" bit, ask them if you or they are calling the cops as you are leaving. I bet they will get really quiet really fast.

 

Hi,THERMO thanks a mill.for your opinion and advice I will however check the manifold bolts and the clamps when I get a chance to do so...I will let you know. thanks again