Hi. I have a fault on fuse 29 - dipped beam, main beam relay and headlight adjust. A fool in the garage put a higher use in to try and bring lights up. The harness is now damaged and I cannot get fixed main beam. Looking at wiring diagram, I might be able to get a reasonable solution by moving a wire on the General Electronic Module (use the flash headlight signal to trip the relay- sacrificing main beam flash).

1. Where is the General Electronic Module?
2. Might be easier to sort out by removing stalk and tweaking wires there - if I knew how to remove it!

Thanks

 

Just checked out your Personal Profile to establish which MY and model of X Type we're looking at here - you say X Type 2d 1995 , which is a little odd as the first X Types didn't appear until 2001! Diesels were much later. Can you clarify that please?

The GEM is above your right foot/ the throttle pedal, but I don't think moving wires round on the GEM is likely to help the problem as you describe it. The Main beam switch wire and the Flash wire are both just switched earth signal type wires - not power ones that would have been damaged by using a too highly rated fuse in the dipped beam system.

What was the original problem that caused the fuse to blow in the first place? Has that been identified/fixed yet? The melted harness should lead to it!

 

Paul, first off, if the garage damaged the car because of violating the fuse recommendations (especially without your knowledge), then the garage should be on the hook for the repair. You would expect the garage to repair a large dent in your door if they slammed the door into a pole in the garage, correct?

As for the rewiring of the car, what year car are we looking at here? This will help me figure out what the best course of action is. From the looks of things, you have the redesign X-Type made after March 2004. Also, when it comes to lighting, do you have HIDs or do you have halogen headlights. Also, what sort of headlight switch do you have (one with Autolamps, DRLs, etc). From the looks of things, a wire has gotten fried and getting things cleared up is going to be a nightmare (hence why I would say the garage messed it up, they should be fixing it). Somewhere you have a bundle of wires that have melted themselves into a big ball. Not going to be a fun job.

 

The car is 2005 2.0 Diesel with auto headlights.
And if anyone knows where the General E Module is I would be very greatful.
The procedure to remove the stalk would also be very useful.
Thanks guys.

 

Paul, based on what you are describing, it sounds like you have a few things that all went south at about the same time. The fuse (F29) causing problems I can see affecting the DIP beam and even taking out the auto leveling system. But, it has nothing to do with the Main beam not remaining locked in. Since you have the flash to pass ability, that is telling me all the wiring from the GEM module to the headlights is good. So, that only leaves the GEM module, the turn signal stalk, and a little bit of interconnecting wiring for the Main beam issue. To help narrow things down there, what I would say is you need to access the backside of the turn signal stalk and with a multimeter, do a resistance check of a black (with a white stripe) wire (Pin 8 on the turn signal stalk) with the car off. What you should see is a high resistance (something over 2K ohm) when the main beams are off and then less than 5 ohms when the Main beams would be turned on. If you don't get this, then you turn signal stalk is bad and it needs replaced. If you are getting this, then you will need to repeat this check using the black (with a white stripe) wire at the GEM module end (Pin 11 of the one connector). If you get the same results, then it confirms the GEM is bad. If the results are different, then the wire between the two spots is damaged and you need to fix that.

As for your DIP beams, your initial fault can only lie in 1 of 3 spots due to only fuse F29 blowing. So, with this being said, you will need to access the back side of the headlight switch and unplug the connector there and then to also access the plug to the left hand headlight unit to remove it too. At this point, you will need to determine which side of fuse F29 is the headlight side. What you will need to do is to do a resistance check of both sides of the fuse holder (fuse will be removed). One side should have a low resistance (under 2 ohm), the other side should have a high resistance (more than 2K ohm). If you have a low resistance on both sides, then your wiring harness has been damaged and you need a new harness. Hopefully you would only need to run a single wire from the fuse box to the left headlight assembly with the wire also splitting out to go through the firewall to the headlight switch. If this is the case, please look below. If you get a high resistance reading on 1 side, this is the side that you are going to want to keep the multimeter connected to. Now, reconnect the headlight switch (with the switch in either one of the 2 middle positions). Did the reading drop to less than 5 ohms? If yes, your headlight switch is bad, you need a new headlight switch. If no, then your problem lies inside the left headlight assembly.

The only way that I can figure out to have both of these problems be interrelated is if your headlight switch was initially the problem and when the larger fuse was installed, you damaged the harness between the firewall and the headlight switch. This would then potentially allow the black/white striped wire and the orange/yellow wire (to the headlight switch) to come in close proximity of each other, resulting in a single problem causing both issues. In this case, your easiest bet will be to simply unwrap the wire bundle going between the headlight switch and the firewall, find the damaged section of wiring and repairing what you find there. In this case (because it is internal to the cab of the vehicle), I would say to use short pieces of the same gauge (if not slightly heavier duty) wire and cut out the bad wiring. Depending on where it is will determine how much of a job this is going to be. The other option is to simply get a new wiring harness for under the dash as it is related to the headlight switch. But, you can plan on having to remove the dash to do this and it will be semi expensive (say 300 euro?). The benefit is that you won't have splices in the wiring that can be issues in the future and may actually be a little easier since you will have access to stuff vice trying to lay on your back and work that way.

As for the location of the GEM module. Since you have a RHD vehicle, you will need to get into the footwell of your car and remove the trim panel by your right foot. The GEM module is right in that area.

If you need anything more or would like a set of diagrams to see what I am talking about, let me know. I will assist however I can.

 

Thanks Chris.
Sorry to sound ungreatful - but do you know how to remove the stalk.
But better to ask than break it.

 

A little more info.
Problem occured either:
a) Trimming headlights or b) setting headlight switch to auto
and main beam did lock in before the event.
PS Fuse went about a month ago and I lost trim and headlight lock - popped new fuse in and worked ok - until I did either a or b above.

 

Paul, I have not removed the turn signal stalk on my car, so, can't help you there. Shouldn't be all that difficult. But follow what I said above and that should help you with your issue. From the sounds of things, it is your headlight switch assembly that is having the issues and that is what needs to be replaced to atleast fix the initial issue. The wrong fuse and the damage that created, well, that is a different story all together.

 

99% of the time the answers end up being the simplest solution.

Try new bulbs? (or test the present ones)

Best 'o luck!

 

Hi Chris

Snow and ice here and couldn't get car in the garage until today.

Started with dipped beam relay and wire from fuse 29. Stripped harness and found the mess. The damage wiring went forward and checked out ok going backward (orange yellow). Stripping more of the harness I found blue/white and another (adjust) abraded by the black earth about an inch or two from the headlights plug. Would not have thought it possibe.

So, in the end it was easier than I had expected. Hope I am not speaking too soon!

Finally, thanks for your post and the confidence it gave me.

All the best

Paul

PS Really pleased its sorted. I really like the car.

 

Paul. sometimes all it takes is a bit of confidence in yourself and you would be amazed as to what can be accomplished. Glad I could be of help to you. As long as you properly insulated the wiring from the surrounding wires, you should be golden. A product that I would recommend to you is some stuff called "Raychem". In short, this is heat shrink tubing on steroids. I use it at work to protect wiring so that it can survive a nuclear reactor accident (yes, I work at a nuclear power plant). So, if it can survive that, I think it can survive under the hood of your car.

If you look on e-bay, you can normally find this stuff. Specifically, you are going to want some stuff called "Raychem WCSF-070". That will be the right size for what you are after. May be able to even get away with some stuff called "Raychem WCSF-050". IT is a little smaller in diameter, but should still be big enough to work for your application. When you see this Raychem in person, you will understand why I say what I say. The big trick is heating up the raychem to the point that on the ends, you get a small orange "donut" to be squeeze out of the end. You will see it make a little o-ring looking piece to seal the shrink tubing on to the wiring. If you have some surviving insulation, you want to try and overlap the Raychem and factory insulation by about an inch (maybe a little more if possible). This will garantee that you get a nice seal between the insulation and the shrink tubing, garanteeing that you won't get water intrusion at a later date (leading to a complete wire failure).

If you need more info, let me know. Once you use this stuff, you will have a great appreciation for what it does. Applying it only requires the use of a hair dryer.