When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2002 X type 2.5. 102000 miles. This car was running well until a few days ago. It is now bucking on acceleration and you can hear a misfire at idle. I have done the following: new spark plugs at 95,000 miles, replaced PVC hose, re sealed intake manifold IMT o rings, check and sealed brake booster hose, checked spark plugs in bank 2 (front) and replaced bank 2 coils with known good units.
I have these codes: P1313, P1316, P1603 and P0305.
My next step (next week) is to remove the upper intake and inspect the spark plugs and install 3 known good coils.
I will listen to any advise or suggestions before I remove the intake. Let me know if I am on the right track or just wasting time
Obviously you know with a couple of the codes, you should not drive the car at all until fixed. It's severe enough to cause catalytic converter damage.
P1603 normally occurs when the battery is disconnected while the ignition switch is in the on position. This one (once others are fixed) can just be cleared.
P0305 is misfire on cylinder #5. Swap a coil from elsewhere, clear codes and see if the error follows to where you swap the #5 coil to.
Update:
I removed and resealed the upper intake. I replaced #5 spark plug and coil. Car now runs properly with no codes EXCEPT that it will overheat after 20 minutes. I have flushed the system, checked the condition of the water pump, replaced the thermostat and radiator. Car will warm up to normal and stay for about 5 minutes, then the gauge starts to climb.
You didn't mention anything about a coolant loss or using the correct antifreeze always (never mixing a different color).
Condition of the water pump? Um how do you know? Still could not be functioning correctly. That being said, I'd start a cold car with a/c turned to as cold as possible first. Then raise hood and slightly lean over the radiator. Do you get a blast of air from both fans running and or carefully look with flashlight to see both (automatically both on with the a/c set full). No? Fan control module not doing what's needed. Next redo "burping" the coolant system. Air in the lines can make it overheat. Then lastly coolant temperature sensor.
ken: Does it overheat while parked and idling, or at highway speeds, or both?
If it overheats only when parked and idling, the problem is likely insufficient air flow thru the radiator, probably an issue with the radiator fans or fan control module. At highway speeds, plenty of air is forced thru the radiator to cool the engine without help from the radiator fans.
If it overheats only at highway speeds, the problem is likely insufficient coolant flow from the engine thru the radiator. At highway speeds an engine at 2K - 2.5K rpm burns 3-4 times more fuel than at idle, so the radiator must 'dump' heat 3-4 times faster. An engine that overheats on the highway probably can't push enough coolant / heat out thru the radiator, so it overheats.
If it overheats only at highway speeds, try one more test..... before the engine overheats, blow as much hot air as possible into the passenger compartment by setting the cabin temperature to HI and the blower speed to maximum. If this helps prevent overheating at highway speeds, the coolant thermostat may be stuck in the closed position, preventing coolant from flowing thru the radiator, so the engine overheats. The heater core in the passenger cabin doesn't have a thermostat to limit the flow of coolant, so heat can be dumped into the cabin to cool the engine, albeit at the expense of passenger comfort.
Hi,
Thanks for the replies.
Some more background:
There was no overheating issue before the misfire repair. I noticed it immediately after the repair.
I cannot get to the highway to test. It will overheat after about 20 minutes idle or after I drive locally 20 to 30 mph for 3 or 4 miles.
I removed and inspected the water pump. There is no damage or wear to the impeller. There was no coolant loss. I am currently using water only as I have been attempting to flush everything before using correct coolant. I found a bit of white, waxy deposit on the original thermostat. It turns to powder when dry. It is NOT the dreaded oil/water milkshake.
The fans come on at high speed and stay on when the engine is turned off.
Please explain the proper "burp" procedure. I have done this with other cars.
I've never had to burp my X-Type. I simply refill the coolant reservoir, leave the cap off while the engine idles until hot, rev the engine a few times to purge any trapped air, then top off the coolant and cap the reservoir.
I have these codes: P1313, P1316, P1603 and P0305.
.
I know 305, it is 5th cylinder misfire. Why did you replace 2,4,6 cyl ign. coils if you have 5th cyl misfire? Because they are easier to get to? that makes sense!
Hi,
The front bank still has original coils. When I replaced all spark plugs at 95,000 miles I also replace all 3 coils on the rear bank even though they were not bad. That left me with 3 known good used coils. I used one of them on cylinder 5 to cure the misfire.
Just had mine serviced and it has started stuttering under load sometimes.
Temperature is normal.
There are no dashboard warning lights coming up.
Took it down the local garage but their code reader wouldn't delve deeply enough in to the system for a full diagnostic. It came up with an intermittent throttle body problem and they found a service bulletin relating to DTC P1582 (Flight recorder) which comes up if any of the following conditions occur:- 1. Inertia switch activated 2. Throttle failure causes default limp home mode 3. Engine starts and stumbles 4. Engine fails to start 5. Engine stall 1, 3, 4 and 5 don't seem to apply and as far as 2 goes it hasn't gone in to limp home mode and there are no warning lights. It seems to stumble if trying to accelerate in too high a gear or when slowing down and then trying to pull away in too high a gear. Constant speed or changing down and accelerating doesn't make it stumble.
The plugs were changed in the service, allegedly for OEM ones and it only appears to be one pot misfiring so am I looking at a dodgy coil pack?
I am off to work at 0500 so it looks like I will be dragging the XJR-s out of the garage! Which had a flat battery this morning! 'Cos I didn't shut the boot properly.
Hi,
I did not disconnect coolant lines at the throttle body. I seem to be making progress. I have flushed the system multiple times with water only. It now rinses clear and I can drive and idle with no overheat or codes. Next step is to re fill with proper coolant. Any recommendations on what coolant to use or what not to use? What about "OATS" type coolant verses "HOATS" type? Has anyone used WATERWETTER additive? I want to use a proven product, I don' want to experiment.
I had a little trouble finding a pre-mix, full strength not as hard, but didn't want to use it with distilled water to mix up to 50/50 that met this exact spec. Pre mixed is dump it in, burb system and go. But in the end just kept looking at the specs to MAKE SURE the product met the spec. Despite more than one Auto Parts "expert" assuring me = "oh, this one is fine for your Jag". Nope, not hearing it..........
Residual water stays in the heater core and engine block after you drain the radiator. If you add 50/50 : Dexcool / water to the residual water already in the coolant system, when you're done you'll have less than 50% Dexcool in the engine.
Suggestion: The coolant system holds 10.6 quarts (10L), so if you add ~5 quarts of 100% Dexcool (~$13/gallon at Walmart) and top off the system with distilled water (~$1/gallon at Walmart), the final blend will be closer to 50/50.
As an added bonus, 1 gallon of 100% Dexcool is cheaper and contains the same amount of Dexcool as 2 gallons of the 50/50 blend.
X-Type misfire
