I know there are several posts already and there is a list on General Tech help but there are none listed for current X260 so can anyone recommend a scanner that is 100% compatible. I am in Australia.
I already have 2 that are not communicating
I have a 2017 XF X260 25T Petrol.
I'm not interested in $$$$$.
TIA.

 

The cheapest and most effective route is OBD2 Bluetooth Diagnostic Scanner paired with Torque Pro software. Remove the OBD2 scanner after use, it will drain the battery.

I have this and works just fine for BASIC code reading and erasing codes for my 2018XF
https://www.ebay.com/itm/37489971477...BlBMUPrzud_MYg

 

But that's a wired device, not Bluetooth.

 

And zero sales history

 

Hugh,
The iCarsoft i930 should work perfectly OK on your X260.
It is extremely unlikely the i930 you have is dodgy/broken so I suspect there is a problem with your OBD2 interface.

 

Agree, it SHOULD work. How do your diagnose the diagnostic port?
I have the workshop manual, I will see if I can trace the wiring back.
I have emailed Cameron (CAMBO) for advice.

 

Something is wrong here. OBD II is a standard and any scanner should work. I went with the cheapest I could find that also cleared codes (not all clear codes). If you're talking about getting more/proprietary information from your OBD II port that's a different story. Are you sure you're reading it correctly? Most work with ignition on, engine off.

 

There is a chance that your OBDII port may not have power on pin 16? Does any scanner connect? Oops! I see you said another scanner did connect?
Also check for good grounds on pin 4 and 5.



It's easy to check.

.
.
.

 

Take a look at this post to see what I have done.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-i930-272973/

I'm going to see an expert next week. Stand bye.

 

So the expert plugged in his Autel scanner and found a few dozen faults. Communicated perfectly. Faults were mostly Communication errors or Canbus errors.
They all cleared ok. Fired up car, switched off and checked all errors were still cleared.
I just need to drive it around for a bit and check system in a couple of weeks. He suggested either the icarsoft unit or battery voltage problems.
I related history of battery. Mechanic reported it at 67% at last service. Since then I have tried to recover it with a CTEK smart charger. Seemed to run OK. He reiterated these cars are very sensitive to voltage.
On the way home I stopped at Supercheap and got my battery tested with a Midtronics P300. Cranking measured at 466CCA. Thats bad. Pretty sure spec is 850 or 900CCA.
Looks like my Ctek may not have fully recovered it, perhaps it was too far gone.
So now I'm in the market for a battery.

 

Yes, in another post you said "This morning voltage is 12.24v" after being charged to 12.6V the previous night. Your battery is weak and not holding a charge. I measured the loss on my 7 year old battery at .01V after sitting idle overnight which would take 38 days to drop to 12.24v. Stop/Start is hard on the battery, one of the reasons I have mine disconnected. The other reason being it's annoying The emissions and money saved on gas with SS is minuscule, especially when up against the cost of a battery IMO.

 

Yes, and stop/start also puts extra strain on the timing chains and tensioners since these have to get the camshafts turning against valve spring pressure every time the engine restarts. Stop/start is really only a benefit for the car manufacturer because it does register better fuel consumption on the standard tests mandated by governments. In typical owner use however, its effect is minimal.
At least the XFs and XEs have dedicated buttons to turn off stop/start. Some cars I have rented make you delve through touch screen menus to turn it off.

 

Unfortunately you have to hit the button every time you start the car unlike my wife's BMW which remains off after you stop the engine. I kept forgetting until the first stop about mine so I disabled it by unplugging the module

 

The OP has now bought (and fitted???) a brand new battery, I'll bet dollars to donuts this fixes all the electrical system problems on the car including the OBD2 connection.

 

Yes, bought a new battery, charged it using the Ctek and fitted it yesterday. Its quite a job because it is so heavy and the clamp is in the way. Anyway all done now. Went for a run of over 100kms.
Car drives fine, I now have global window open/close but no Auto start/stop.
This morning I connected the iCarsoft i930 and STILL have no comms and now have gearbox fault again.
I have messaged iCarsoft 3 times now and had no reply.
Might need to visit my expert again and get any faults cleared. I will also ask about registering the new battery. This seems to be a thing mentioned in other posts.
Also need to look for another scanner. There seems to be quite a mixed bag of successful and unsuccessful units.

 

My understanding is as long as the new battery matches the old one ... amp hours, type (ours are AGM) ..... you're good to go.

 

My port is wired like this.

 

So I bought an Autel AP200. It works fine. I communicated first time and read and cleared faults.
Its a really neat, cost effective device. Recommended.
Now I want to register my new battery but having a bit of trouble,
I can get to service and BMS and select battery but nothing seems to happen.
I also have a start/stop inhibited due to battery being low but again cant change it.
Any suggestions?

 

I know you said it's a new battery but did you measure the voltage? Stop car, open hood, connect DVM to jumper points, wait 20 minutes to measure. Should be around 12.65V for a fully charged battery. 12.24V = 50% If voltage is OK drive the car and I bet the SS becomes active after a bit.

 

Battery sits at about 12.7v when car is off. 14.85 when on and charging. Both DVM under hood and live data on scanner.