Setup:
111,665 miles
Upper and lower pulleys, cat delete, bigger pump, added another aux radiator and fan for intercoolers, x pipe, the resonator and mufflers are stock. I do have remote cutouts. Dyno is all wheel drive Dynajet using Dyna Max Pro software. Fuel is 93 octane premium.

Tuned by @AlphaJagTuning (awesome tunes)

This car has no weight reduction and sports a full interior including spare tire and jack. It weighs 4520 with driver and 1/2 tank of gas.
it has so far ran 7:47@95.?? In the 1/8 mile.

It was tested with stock intake pipe first with closed exhaust and then with open exhaust. The two runs first were done without shutting the engine down, just opened the exhaust and did run number 2.

With exhaust opened it gained about 10hp.

Then we did a Mina Gallery intake tube ("y" type) swap mostly to see if there was validity to the "DONT RUN A CAI ON THE 5.0 S/C" claims.
My CAI is header wrapped and then has reflective heat tape over that.

Down time was maybe 15min to swap the intake then the runs were again conducted back to back without shutting off the vehicle.

Mina yielded 10hp with exhaust closed, opening the exhaust didnt help or hurt it merely moved the torque to start earlier and peak.about 300rpm sooner.
End results:
Mina intake with exhaust open:
590.5 rwhp
598 rwtq

 

Love those numbers!!!

 

Are you planning on doing anything else like meth injection?

 

I think I want to do a throttle body bore maybe and 2 1/2 pipes from the downpipes back. One day a S/C porting maybe. I am toying with a different lower pulley as they are not all the same size. I would love an E-85 tune but I am many miles (50-ish) to find it... that would eliminate my fun driving at every chance. But yes considering meth- injection as well... but I know little about it.

Traction is already a problem lol

 

let me know who does your tb bore. Max bore used to do it but they stopped last I heard. I’m looking at porting the supercharger as well so it looks like you and I are planning a lot of the same mods. I have yet to find any tuner willing to work with e85.

 

Yes sounds like we are on similar tracks for sure!
Try Alex@AlphaJagTuning. I believe he may work with E-85. Im for sure happy with my current tune from him.

 

Those are impressive numbers. I really wish we had 93 octane available in California but the best I can get is 91. I have been hesitant to do the upper pulley in addition to my lower one without having better fuel. I may have to check out AlphaJagtuning since he is less than two hours from me.

 

Alex does wonders with just an upper pulley and tune. I had that a while and I did put in an x pipe. Totally a different vehicle from stock. Worth every penny. If you do the upper I would suggest using a griptec. That way you can change pulleys with much less work and more options.

 

It was also nice to see an actual same day same Dyno comparison with the Mina Intake gaining 10hp. I just purchased a used one to install after I wrap it and at first I was hesitant after seeing the YouTube comparison where it didn’t look so good. Nice work.

 

I have mine double wrapped. Once with header heat wrap and then heat reflective tape. I went to the track for test and tune Friday and I didnt notice much difference but I never got a solid run without spinning. I did observe what appears to be a slightly lower idle and maybe an almost (almost) undetectable bit of surge on the highway (its 60 miles one way to the track) that I never noticed before. So slight that most would never notice it was there. So I put the stock intake back on Saturday morning but haven't had a chance to road test it to see if it still occurs. I can gain the 10hp back by opening the exhaust cutouts if need be. The saga continues 😁

 

That's great to hear! I felt like almost everyone had boarded the "Mina Intake Sucks" train because of that one silly video, while only a few of us bucked the trend, so it's a nice redemption.

Also, sorry if I missed it, but what filters were you using? After years of happily enjoying using the stock intake boxes and K&N panel filters with my reflective-taped Mina pipe, I recently decided I wanted that sweet supercharger whine, so I removed the upper sections of the stock air boxes, added some MAF adapter tubes with K&N cone filters (which just sit on top of the stock air boxes' lower sections), and I fabbed up some ABS plastic heat shields which fit directly into the lower boxes. I'll also add some reflective tape and rubber seal tubing to the top edges, but as I'm doing a lot of other work for the next several months, it'll be a while before I can really understand any potential gains/losses.

Thanks for the info!!!

 

I am using the K&N drop in as well. I would like to use cone filters as well. But I know I need to separate it from engine bay heat as you did. I would also like to somehow fabricate something to increase airflow and getting cooler air by improving the snorkels if nothing else by moving the in grill scoop forward to the grill itself.
Maybe when you get time if you could post some pics of your airbox alterations. Maybe save us from burning some gray matter reinventing the wheel lol

 

Happy to. I'm down on Saint Simons Island (GA coast) for the Happy Birthday Murica celebration, but I'll try to access my Dropbox and post a few this afternoon. If I can't, I'll do it on Weds.

 

Sounds great! I know my old gal.has more in her.... just gotta talk her out of it!

 

I'll just chime in here re the Y Pipe . I believe the main issue with the Y pipe from Mina is heat soak. Keep in mind that XFR we tuned above , has an additional supercharger intercooler radiator which helps tremendously with cooling of the supercharger. For comparisons we had a 2014 Xkr that has came in here to get a tune, he had full aluminum intake tube setup from Mina. Long story short even before the tune at wide open throttle that car would be at over 200 f temperature at supercharger and would put car it in limp mode each time at WOT. We had to go back to stock intake setup to be able to program the tune And have the car run properly.
So if you do get the Y pipe make sure it is heat wrapped properly , reflective tape by itself Will not do much if anything. Monitor your intake temps before and after..
And if you are stock and trying to gain horsepower by adding pulleys, exhaust, intake, you are wasting your time and money. ECU from factory is set to keep the power in check and will do everything to not go above the stock crank hp rating for your car...

 

Alex is correct. He and I have talked about this many times and we have watched my data very closely. I have my mina double wrapped...(header wrap then reflective tape) and it still carries more heat than stock does at the track. As I noted earlier I have placed my stock one back on due to a lower than normal idle and a very slight surge at highway speeds with the mina. So far with the return of the stock Intake all seems normal. I also noted that I added an additional radiator to help.with heat and the bigger pump. You can duplicate my setup and not gain much of anything unless you get a tune! That is the key. Alex does wonders with a tune and upper pulley, it will feel like a different car! I ran that setup a long time and it was a beast....and then i just started a little of this and that here and there, but always with Alex giving experienced guidance and opinions... and the big one.. Tuning ....tuning....tuning...optimizing for the setup that I have.

 

Sorry for the delay. I couldn't find any pix from my phone while on vacation because I forgot to take any pictures of the shields in place in the car (I thought I had), so had to wait until I got home. With everything in the engine pulled apart for the next few more months or so, it would take me forever to get them reinstalled for pix. However, I had previously taken a few pix of the open intakes installed without the shields, so I just took some pix of the shields in the airbox while out of the car, etc., to give you the idea. While sitting inside of the OEM airboxes, the shields contour perfectly to the inside of the hood and various other objects with just a little space above (before adding the rubber trim), so I'll add the rubber trim to the tops, as well as some kind of insulative foam (or the like) to seal the gaps of around the hole where the tube goes through. The small hole on the side of the passenger-side shield pictured below is for where the shield presses against the fuse box.

I tried everything out before my water pump blew and it all worked perfectly, including giving me that awesome SC whine. I didn't have time to monitor temps, etc. I settled on these K&N intakes (K&N RG-1001BL) because after measuring it all up, they fit perfectly into the OEM airbox lower sections without requiring any changes in angles from the piping, unlike a few other cones I tried out (I had some laying around from previous cars). Plus, they were only like $35/each with free Prime delivery from Amazon, and I've been running K&N filters for over 20 years on a lot of cars without any problems. If I care enough later or think it's needed, I might play around with some longer cones, but I also liked that these were open at the top for more flow, so doubt I will. I bought the MAF adapters on eBay for $30/each with free shipping ("1Pc 76mm MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter Tube For Subaru Suzuki Toyota Mazda UK" from "cantwaitonline") and think it only took about two weeks or so to receive them.

I mocked up the shield design with some scrap cardboard boxes, which I bent into L-shapes to fit into the lower sections of OEM airboxes, and then I transferred the flat shape to some scrap ABS plastic. The ABS is actually from some kind of cheap black automotive drip tray (or something similar) which I've used over the years to cut pieces out of to fabricate various things (flat washers, deflectors, etc.). I'd initially tried to heat up a single piece of ABS to then bend it into an L-shape like the carboard design, but it split at the edge, so I went back with some aluminum L-brackets on the inside which I made with an angle grinder and some leftover aluminum angles from Home Depot. I used some high-heat marine epoxy (JB Weld) to adhere them, and also coated the insides and outsides of the seams with the same epoxy, then sanded them down to a fairly smooth surface. I still need to clean them up a lot (sand them more, add some kind of epoxy-like coating before adding any kind of reflective coating, etc.) and then I'll do some final fitment stuff, but it's not my biggest priority right now. FYI, I made both of the shields the exact same way. Once the rest of the engine is put back together, I'll finish the shields, but it won't take long at all.

I'm sure I probably forgot something, but I hope that at least makes sense.

 

Brother I don't want to give you bad news but with the increased mass airflow tube diameter and aftermarket maf, I very highly doubt you're getting correct mass airflow readings which means your air fuel ratio is completely out of whack. You can check this by monitoring your long-term fuel trims at idle mid-load and high load and post back....

 

I think the tube diameter is the same, as the Mina-provided silicone couplers fit exactly. I do get that the raised mount could create an issue, but to which aftermarket MAF are you referring? The filters? Like I said, everything worked great and felt incredibly strong when I took it out for a hard run (except the water pump). It has a tune on it (with a 60.5mm upper pulley), and I'll obviously monitor everything when it's all put back together. Not to say it shouldn't be re-tuned once I add the lower pulley, ported SC and TB, etc. But, the good news is that if there's an issue with the pipework, it's a really quick/cheap fix, or am I completely missing something?

 

For some reason I thought you have aftermarket MAF. Either way with the tube and open intakes, you need to monitor your long-term fuel trims corrections , this will give an indication if your airflow ratios are ok. And you also need to monitor your intake temps after hard runs and just during long idling or driving around town. Also you could take the car on a dyno, on a track, or use Dragy And you will find out what your 1/8th mi is to see if car is where it's supposed to be