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Yes, that's really annoying; there's nothing like actually seeing the oil and feeling it, plus there is less to go wrong with a real dipstick than an electronic one.
The filler (cap), not the filter. :-) There is a small tube under there which can be used to draw oil off.
That is good to know - thank you 😊!
I do like the idea of inspecting the actual filter... This way you can see what kind of stuff gets caught by it.
Now I wonder if there is a company out there that makes reusable metal mesh filters... like they have for racing cars.
The oil filter is a doddle to remove, the canister simply screws off and the filter element then pulls out (needs a good yank though).
Be warned, sometimes an overly enthusiastic grease monkey has overtightened the oil filter canister and it can be stuck pretty damn tight, so get yourself a canister removal tool.
If you want you can pull the filter out and inspect it but in my experience across several filters on the XFR and F-Type there is nothing much to see, it simply goes the same darkish colour as the old oil. I have never heard of this filter collapsing or becoming blocked.
To check the oil condition I doubt if Etypephil's suggestion of using a syringe to extract some from the extraction tube will work as it would have to be a bloody long and/or bloody powerful syringe! Instead you could use an oil extraction (vacuum) pump to extract some oil, this is how a dealership extracts the oil when doing an oil change and so do many owners. Another method is per your first thought - remove the oil filter canister and you will see a sizeable pool of oil sitting around the base that the canister screws into, suck up some of that oil with a syringe.
The oil filter is a doddle to remove, the canister simply screws off and the filter element then pulls out (needs a good yank though).
Be warned, sometimes an overly enthusiastic grease monkey has overtightened the oil filter canister and it can be stuck pretty damn tight, so get yourself a canister removal tool.
If you want you can pull the filter out and inspect it but in my experience across several filters on the XFR and F-Type there is nothing much to see, it simply goes the same darkish colour as the old oil. I have never heard of this filter collapsing or becoming blocked.
To check the oil condition I doubt if Etypephil's suggestion of using a syringe to extract some from the extraction tube will work as it would have to be a bloody long and/or bloody powerful syringe! Instead you could use an oil extraction (vacuum) pump to extract some oil, this is how a dealership extracts the oil when doing an oil change and so do many owners. Another method is per your first thought - remove the oil filter canister and you will see a sizeable pool of oil sitting around the base that the canister screws into, suck up some of that oil with a syringe.
Thanks for the added info . I do have the canister removal tool - it saved my sanity a couple of times with some tricky placed filters.
I'm used to having re-usable filters from my little project cars that I use to track; makes the job of taking the filter apart much easier.
I am more interested to see the filter and then the actual oil to be honest. Usually if engine starts to wear in a bad way, you can find some clues in the filter element. And since this babe is high on kms, I would definitely like to keep my eye on it.
sorry about your troubles...by no means typical nor indicative of the brand...i’ve had had three jags all all were high mileage with very little issues...many miles of incredible performance from my tire shredding XKR...supreme chassis handling from my XF to the v12 purr in my xjs (i got lucky with the xjs....however the modern day Jag is as fine as an automobile gets at its price point....Once your gremlins are gone they will begone and will not return.
my2C
Nope... my "glitches" stopped as soon as I stopped using the windshield washer.
As soon as I read @litteredwithfaults comment and the forum threads he linked to, I stopped using the windshield washer just to see if my symptoms will go away... and they did.
Double checked the fuse on the passenger's side (left hand drive car) and I need to do some cleaning - I am waiting for the pump that I already ordered before cleaning it and do the whole thing together.
I just stopped using the washer and manually wipe the windshield until then ( kind of a pain with the weather in Canada :/ ).
The screen stopped flickering as soon as I disconnected the Bluetooth on my phone. And as such I have a new module already ordered and waiting for it to arrive.
Hopefully once I install that as well, the phone will be back to normal.
I was planning to add some pictures and follow up after I implement the fixes, that's why I haven't mentioned anything - didn't wanted to give false hopes for people that are passing by, reading these forums.
And as soon as I am done tackling these things, I will follow up with a few other things (something to do with the side mirrors when reversing and the odd functionality of the wipers when used in intermittent mode).
But one thing at a time . Looks like these forums are stuck with me for a while - I doubt this car was taken care of properly and she is in need of some tender love.
could you post a picture of the before and after of your fuse cleaning?
The oil filter is a doddle to remove, the canister simply screws off and the filter element then pulls out (needs a good yank though).
Be warned, sometimes an overly enthusiastic grease monkey has overtightened the oil filter canister and it can be stuck pretty damn tight, so get yourself a canister removal tool.
If you want you can pull the filter out and inspect it but in my experience across several filters on the XFR and F-Type there is nothing much to see, it simply goes the same darkish colour as the old oil. I have never heard of this filter collapsing or becoming blocked.
To check the oil condition I doubt if Etypephil's suggestion of using a syringe to extract some from the extraction tube will work as it would have to be a bloody long and/or bloody powerful syringe! Instead you could use an oil extraction (vacuum) pump to extract some oil, this is how a dealership extracts the oil when doing an oil change and so do many owners. Another method is per your first thought - remove the oil filter canister and you will see a sizeable pool of oil sitting around the base that the canister screws into, suck up some of that oil with a syringe.
A syringe connected to the oil extraction tube with screenwasher tubing extracts oil for inspection perfectly; takes about 30 seconds including removal of the oil filler cap.
sorry about your troubles...by no means typical nor indicative of the brand...i’ve had had three jags all all were high mileage with very little issues...many miles of incredible performance from my tire shredding XKR...supreme chassis handling from my XF to the v12 purr in my xjs (i got lucky with the xjs....however the modern day Jag is as fine as an automobile gets at its price point....Once your gremlins are gone they will begone and will not return.
my2C
I sure hope that once I clean these electrical issues, I will finally be able to enjoy the car properly - thanks for the reassurance!
Originally Posted by 3kgtjunkie
could you post a picture of the before and after of your fuse cleaning?
I've posted a pic on your thread on how my connector was looking like. If yours is in any similar shape, it needs some cleaning.
As an update, over the weekend I have replaced the washer pump with a new one.
I've also spliced the wires and re-connected them using heat shrink butt connectors (in the hope that if by any chance the new washer pump has same issues, it will at least stop the capillary action).
I've also cleaned the connectors on the fuse box and double checked all the fuses; however I did not remove the board.
Way too cold... I was literally starting to freeze so I just use (very generously) some electrical cleaner, let it dry and then plug everything back together.
I am planning to re-visit and check again to make sure things didn't got worse in the spring, once weather is a little warmer .
I think it should be OK for now... since I never got any kind of errors or weird behaviour after I stopped using the windshield washer.
Speaking of, the pressure is really nice now; before was the equivalent of me spitting at the windows and wiping them with rubber strips .
Some pics..
The female/male connector:
The pump already installed:
The butt connectors I used to re-connect the washer pump wires:
As a side note... I hate with passion those plastic clips used to keep in place the wheel-well cover. Freaking impossible to "un-screw" them... they just spin and nothing else.
I end up breaking 2 of them .
As an update, over the weekend I have replaced the washer pump with a new one.
I've also spliced the wires and re-connected them using heat shrink butt connectors (in the hope that if by any chance the new washer pump has same issues, it will at least stop the capillary action).
I've also cleaned the connectors on the fuse box and double checked all the fuses; however I did not remove the board.
Way too cold... I was literally starting to freeze so I just use (very generously) some electrical cleaner, let it dry and then plug everything back together.
I am planning to re-visit and check again to make sure things didn't got worse in the spring, once weather is a little warmer .
I think it should be OK for now... since I never got any kind of errors or weird behaviour after I stopped using the windshield washer.
Speaking of, the pressure is really nice now; before was the equivalent of me spitting at the windows and wiping them with rubber strips .
Some pics..
The female/male connector:
The pump already installed:
The butt connectors I used to re-connect the washer pump wires:
As a side note... I hate with passion those plastic clips used to keep in place the wheel-well cover. Freaking impossible to "un-screw" them... they just spin and nothing else.
I end up breaking 2 of them .
did you find corrosion or discoloration on the passenger fuse box/fuses? What did that look like if so
did you find corrosion or discoloration on the passenger fuse box/fuses? What did that look like if so
The fuses were not that bad... some discoloration (some worse than others). I replaced the ones that I thought were looking the worst.
I don't have pictures of those though... didn't thought of taking one . The worse was the plug connector... but not as bad as I have seen in other's pictures.
Anyone knows the part number for the fuse box (passenger footwell box)?
I'm thinking that if there is any rust built into the board, maybe its not a bad idea to change this board eventually... so is not a bad idea to start looking for one just in case...
01-25-2019, 02:06 PM
. I do have the canister removal tool - it saved my sanity a couple of times with some tricky placed filters.
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