I am looking at a 2012 XF 5.0, which claims to have the sport package. The car has 84K on it. I only drive about 6000-6500 miles a year. The car is being reconditioned and have not seen or driven it in person.

What are the general or common problems with these models ((I have already asked about the buckling dash) or what should I look to see that might develop at this stage a problem.

If you own one of these models, please tell me your general experience with them and the good and bad.

Thanks for your help in advance!!!

Tom in Dallas/Plano

 

Hi Tom!
Lots of info out there on the problems. Good to see your on top of the dash leather problem.
Number one is water pump. Then the failure prone plastic cooling pipes in front of the water pump. These are now out in the after market in lifetime Aluminum versions. This is a big deal and 100% solves one of the engine killing problems on the 5.0L V-8!

You don't say SC or not? But the SC snout develops a clunking sound and will need to be replaced at some point. Now this failure is minor and can be left until it's convenient to replace. My 2014 XJR currently has the snout clunk so it's in my future for sure. Be sure and change the oil in the SC when replacing/repairing the snout.

Again timing tensioners and guide rails. This is variable but it is an expensive repair. Jaguar improved the timing stuff as the years went by but 2012 is an early car and most likely will need the tensioners/guide rails replaced at some point. It looks like Jaguar made some big changes sometime in 2014. Now it's possible that this has already been done at 84K miles? Any service records?

Other than that just stay on top of the cooling system. Be sure and check oil regularly. Change oil at 6K-8K miles and completely ignore Jaguar's ultra-long drain intervals!! Yes the car does NOT have a dip stick so it's all electronic. Which oil to use is a big subject with lots of arguments. I use Mobil 1 0W-20. I still believe the interval is far more important than the brand of oil used. We had a former XFR owner Bigg Will and he only used Walmart 100% synthetic oil. He changed it every 2500 miles and he had a very early 2010 XFR. He left the Jaguar world and sold his XFR with 130K miles on it will all the original timing gear still in place. He also modified and drove his XFR hard. So his example sticks in my mind.

With the age and miles the 6 speed ZF is due for a fluid change but you had the same transmission in your S-Type I believe? So your up to date on what that requires for service.

I would also add a rear diff oil change as it's very easy and quick to do. Again just be sure and use the correct fluid depending on what rear diff your car has. My XJR has the E-Diff and I am very happy with how it puts the power down! That was the number one failing in my mind about my old 2005 S Type R. 400HP and an open rear diff? Come on Jaguar what were you thinking?
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Thanks. This is a non-SC, which for me is more than fine. The plastic pipes would be important. Why so much trouble with the water pump? I have heard that Jag wants a special castrol oil, but I think the right specs is what matters. I have yet to see the carfax and therefore the service records. My larger concern is that has been both a TX and LA car and depending on when it was in LA might be the larger concern. We will see the timing of when it was there.

Thanks

TBB

 

OK the only thing I would note is the Aluminum cooling pipes do NOT fit the NA 5.0L V-8. So do watch that.
Don't know why all the water pump problems but I do know Jaguar revised the part number at least 6 or 7 times. The current best one ends in part number 3909. That is what I am running so we will see if it's better or not? Now I have already put more miles on this replaced pump than I got from the factory installed one so it has lasted longer.
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The latest pump I installed a Beck-Arnley and knock-on-wood, its so far its lived longer (more miles) than the previous three Jaguar pumps. The aftermarket solved the water pump problems on the 4.0L before Jaguar so hopefully the aftermarket has solved the water pump problems on the 5.0L as well.

At 84,000 miles, seeing the maintenance and repair history is key because its way overdue for a lot of preventative maintenance stuff if it hasn't already been done. But don't just go by the Jaguar maintenance schedule, rather the key is to read these forums. Somebody has already had every problem that the XF is likely to ever have, we've discussed them and determined the steps that we can take to prevent the same from happening to us. To what clubairth1 listed, I'd add that it's direct injection so it needs the intake valves cleaned.

I'd suggest you inspect the rubber suspension bushes thoroughly as they are soft and tend not to last very long on the third world roads we have around DFW. The stupid map lights ghost on and off on their own when the car is either hot or cold, until the interior temperature stabilizes. Tried all the forum fixes with no luck - probably needs a whole new map light console panel and that'll last a couple of years like the first one. All the "soft touch" buttons became gummy and I had to spends many hours carefully stripping the sticky finish with, off all things, makeup remover pads - yes you read that right. Other stuff to watch out for, the little float in the coolant tank sank about this time last year. I had both front window motors replaced at between 30 and 40k but that must be unusual because there are not many posts about window motors on here like the other issues.

 

Thank you. I will keep an eye out for all of that when I look at the car this week,

TBB

 

Have you seen the TSB on those lights? Sounds like your having the exact same problem?
Looks like a small repair kit might solve the problem?
C2D38636 Carbon Contact Pad Service About $25-$30. It's just 4 pieces of rubber tubing and an alcohol cleaning pad.





The TSB shows you how to remove/clean and cover the plugs on the main circuit board in the overhead console. It does need to be removed from the car to do the repair.
It's not too expensive so might be worth a shot?


Yes the carbon build up from the DI can be an issue but it's really variable from car to car. Lucky the 5.0L is not too bad compared to say an Audi.
But good point!

Lots of posts on sticky buttons too. I did not mention that because I was able to remove all the sticky residue myself so not really any cost just some DIY time involved.
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This one I fixed with some conductive paste lightly applied so it would always have SOME contact. Issue hasn't returned in at least a year.