2013 3.0 S/C AWD rattling noise from right bank when cold
Hi
There is a intermittent rattling noise during cold start on my 2013 3.0 S/C AWD. It’s definitely coming from the right cylinder bank.
See video, it can be heard especially well from 1:05 on:
It goes away when warm, engine runs strong, no OBD faults, car has 127750km / 79280miles on the clock.
Is this the VVT? Or chain tensioners, but then why would it be only intermittent and only on one cylinder bank?
I do appreciate every hint, thanks!
Chris
There is a intermittent rattling noise during cold start on my 2013 3.0 S/C AWD. It’s definitely coming from the right cylinder bank.
See video, it can be heard especially well from 1:05 on:
It goes away when warm, engine runs strong, no OBD faults, car has 127750km / 79280miles on the clock.
Is this the VVT? Or chain tensioners, but then why would it be only intermittent and only on one cylinder bank?
I do appreciate every hint, thanks!
Chris
Last edited by chris.schneider; Nov 6, 2020 at 03:08 AM.
Firstly, heads up: Your Coolant Reservoir looks pretty low, you might want to top it up and check for leaks.
Also, that rattling is definitely not supposed to be there - I would agree that chain tensioners/guides etc would likely affect both banks. What's interesting is that you can hear it stop briefly and start again at the 1:07 mark, which makes me wonder if it's related to either the VVTs or the solenoids that operate them.
Have you tried pulling any codes from it?
Also, that rattling is definitely not supposed to be there - I would agree that chain tensioners/guides etc would likely affect both banks. What's interesting is that you can hear it stop briefly and start again at the 1:07 mark, which makes me wonder if it's related to either the VVTs or the solenoids that operate them.
Have you tried pulling any codes from it?
Thanks Dave. Yeah I know there is a coolant leak on the famous Y-pipe, parts are ordered already.
There are no codes logged.
I consider to disconnect the VVT connectors to see if the noise changes. Or will that raise other issues (apart from codes being logged)?
Thanks,
Chris
There are no codes logged.
I consider to disconnect the VVT connectors to see if the noise changes. Or will that raise other issues (apart from codes being logged)?
Thanks,
Chris
HP fuel pump
Use a mechanics stethoscope (or Dave Tibbs jury rigged version-screwdriver or chisel with a shank al the way through on the metal fuel line that crosses the engine) ;lay your ear on the shank and tip on that line.
Known problem, there is a TSB on it
Use a mechanics stethoscope (or Dave Tibbs jury rigged version-screwdriver or chisel with a shank al the way through on the metal fuel line that crosses the engine) ;lay your ear on the shank and tip on that line.
Known problem, there is a TSB on it
Yes replace the HP pump, Its a Bosch 66807 model don't need to get the JLR I got it for $150 at rock auto. There are plenty of cheaper knock offs but why save 75 when the Bosch saves you 300 over JLR (which is the same pump rebranded)
The Jaguar Dealer parts guy was confused in the AWD but figured out both front and rear pumps have the same parts #
I had to do the front. You need to pull the starter to get to the line clamp under it. I was able to get it up in there by genlty bending the line out of the way
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/458...el-Pump-66807/
The Jaguar Dealer parts guy was confused in the AWD but figured out both front and rear pumps have the same parts #
I had to do the front. You need to pull the starter to get to the line clamp under it. I was able to get it up in there by genlty bending the line out of the way
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/458...el-Pump-66807/
Last edited by Jssaab; Nov 8, 2020 at 08:51 AM.
Thanks for these details, very helpful. I tested today with the Tibboskop and its pretty obvious.
Am I right assuming that the actual pump is the same and just the cover differs enough so Jaguar could assign two separate part numbers to it?
Am I right assuming that the actual pump is the same and just the cover differs enough so Jaguar could assign two separate part numbers to it?
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Make sure if it's the front or rear pump, both seem to resonate through the line that crosses the engine. There is a diagnosis in the tool that allows the pump to be shut down individually to test. I went by ear from under the car right on the pump (bought a mechanic stethoscope to do that) but I was worried it was just reverb through the engine
When the parts guy looked into the part number he saw there was an obsolete # of the front pump that pointed to the same pump number. That is the one I used to cross reference the Bosch pump. You can go to the Bosch website and put in your VIN or model info and it matches with only one number
It looks like the reason both pumps are the same on the 3.0 and probably not on the 5.0 seems it is based on the smaller size of the head and room on the top of the engine (using the same block and where the pumps are placed requires the line to be aligned a bit differently for the front pump- but that is only a guess.) The offset of the input and output lines on the pump are aligned differently, not just the cover.
When the parts guy looked into the part number he saw there was an obsolete # of the front pump that pointed to the same pump number. That is the one I used to cross reference the Bosch pump. You can go to the Bosch website and put in your VIN or model info and it matches with only one number
It looks like the reason both pumps are the same on the 3.0 and probably not on the 5.0 seems it is based on the smaller size of the head and room on the top of the engine (using the same block and where the pumps are placed requires the line to be aligned a bit differently for the front pump- but that is only a guess.) The offset of the input and output lines on the pump are aligned differently, not just the cover.
Again very helpful information, much appreciated. I did not yet have time to hook up SDD on it but will do as soon as time allows. I consider replacing both pumps anyway, if one goes bad the other one will probably follow suit.
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
Make sure if it's the front or rear pump, both seem to resonate through the line that crosses the engine. There is a diagnosis in the tool that allows the pump to be shut down individually to test. I went by ear from under the car right on the pump (bought a mechanic stethoscope to do that) but I was worried it was just reverb through the engine
When the parts guy looked into the part number he saw there was an obsolete # of the front pump that pointed to the same pump number. That is the one I used to cross reference the Bosch pump. You can go to the Bosch website and put in your VIN or model info and it matches with only one number
It looks like the reason both pumps are the same on the 3.0 and probably not on the 5.0 seems it is based on the smaller size of the head and room on the top of the engine (using the same block and where the pumps are placed requires the line to be aligned a bit differently for the front pump- but that is only a guess.) The offset of the input and output lines on the pump are aligned differently, not just the cover.
When the parts guy looked into the part number he saw there was an obsolete # of the front pump that pointed to the same pump number. That is the one I used to cross reference the Bosch pump. You can go to the Bosch website and put in your VIN or model info and it matches with only one number
It looks like the reason both pumps are the same on the 3.0 and probably not on the 5.0 seems it is based on the smaller size of the head and room on the top of the engine (using the same block and where the pumps are placed requires the line to be aligned a bit differently for the front pump- but that is only a guess.) The offset of the input and output lines on the pump are aligned differently, not just the cover.
They have different JLR numbers and also different BOSCH numbers:
Front:
Jaguar C2Z31828
BOSCH 0 261 520 198
Rear:
Jaguar C2Z31827
BOSCH 0 261 520 200
BTW, the front pump can be exchanged without removing the axle as suggested by Topix. Had to adapt a torx key a little bit to fit past the alloy housing. Not sure if the same procedure will work for the rear pump.
Ever do the rear one? Is it easier?
The parts guy was thoroughly confused. I figured the pumps might be different on one of the versions of the pump models, seems the connecter element is clocked in a different way. I guess the 5.0 they are the same...
The parts guy was thoroughly confused. I figured the pumps might be different on one of the versions of the pump models, seems the connecter element is clocked in a different way. I guess the 5.0 they are the same...
I'm planning to do it with the next oil service this spring. I doubt it is easier, especially on the AWD with the front drive shaft going right through that area.
And yes you are right, it is the connector element that differs between the pumps. Probably due to the tight space down there with the front drive shaft.
Chris
And yes you are right, it is the connector element that differs between the pumps. Probably due to the tight space down there with the front drive shaft.
Chris
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