I am attempting to replace the coupler in the driveshaft of my supercharger on a 2013 XF 3.0. I have the unit on the bench and am trying to remove the nose section from the main body to be able to replace the coupler. I have taken out all six retaining bolts already and whacked it many times with a rubber hammer in an attempt to separate the two with no luck. I am afraid to hit it much harder or longer in fear of cracking the aluminum. Any ideas out there from someone who has done this? Is there a gasket between the two pieces that needs to be broken or does the pulley need to come off first? Sorry for the grade school questions but it is my first venture into a supercharger.... and hopefully my last for a while! https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/i.../icon_rain.gif

 

I have the dreaded torsion isolator rattle on my V6 F-Type, and I'm taking it into the dealer next week to get it checked out under warranty. It's only done 30,900km and it made the noise from day one of my ownership at 27,200km. Sometimes it abates after a while, sometimes it stays just as loud.
This instruction page might help, although it doesn't explain how to remove the S/C nose if it doesn't want to budge, but it does mention a gasket where the join is: How to replace an Eaton Supercharger Coupler : SuperchargersOnline, Worlds largest Supercharger Resource. Get Serious About Power

 

Yes, sad to say that mine only had 46K on it and was producing some occasional rattles. Enough to the point where I wanted it fixed. I had seen the write up on taking the cone off but that particular article was written about a wet fluid style housing with a liquid gasket. The Eaton supercharger for the 3.0 has a dry chamber and hence does not have any fill tubes for the oil.
Certainly taking the supercharger off is not for the faint of heart as by the book it calls for 6 rate hours for complete R and R. I spent every bit of 2.5 just getting it ready to come out and another 1.5 hours trying to free up the corroded and stuck guide pins underneath the unit. I would say on a scale of 1-10 with 1 being a brake pad change and 10 being a transmission overhaul I would call it a 5.5!

Maybe you could ask your Jag mechanic the correct procedure if your appointment is anytime soon.

 

Problem Solved!
I was able to use a driveable pry tool into one of the joint areas to begin the separation. There was some form of black liquid gasket of some sort applied to the joint and was very tenacious. I think I could have easily broken the housing attempting to beat it apart with a mallet so if anyone needs to separate them in the future maybe some heat might make it easier or just start the beating with a thin pry bar or scraper blade.

Anyone who knows the proper product to use to reattach the two please share!

FYI, the unit is a spring loaded version of a coupler made by Eaton. The chamber was dry as mentioned earlier.

 

Having just replaced my spring coupler with a solid one, I feel your pain - especially the stuck guide pins - in the end I had to have two sections of steel bar and threaded rods going into the supercharger/inlet assembly so we could rock the supercharger off the block.

The method I used to separate the snout from the supercharger was to back out the bolts a bit, and then dangle it by the snout and smack it with a rubber mallet, so the weight of the charger was pulling the joint apart. Seemed to work without any damage.

 

Thanks Dave Tibbs! I will be replacing my spring coupler with a solid one as well. Eaton said that the noise level is just a bit higher but that they are much more durable.

I ended up getting my nose off by hammering with a scraper tool into one of the joint edges but it was no easy task. May I ask what type of sealant you used to reattach the nose? Also, did you bother to replace the two gaskets between the supercharger and the two intakes for the head? They are supposed to be metal and are fairly expensive as I was hoping to get by with reusing.

Thanks for the input.

 

Not sure if you guys know, but the reason behind the Service Bulletin on S/C noise is the fact that the guys at Jaguar installed the coupler backwards.


Mike

 

Thanks for the heads up Mike. Do you have a link of any kind that I can access that service bulletin? I was told by Eaton that the reason for the spring loaded coupler was to reduce noise and that the solid one would only produce minimally more noise in the cockpit but was worth it for reliability. I for one, am not too excited about having to do this every 30K!

 

Interesting!
I took my F-Type into the dealer's service department yesterday, and surprise surprise they diagnosed the rattle as a dodgy torsion isolator. They are now tracking down the parts and will call me when they have them, could be days, could be weeks, but at least it's a FOC warranty fix.
When I take the car back for the fix I will ask about this backwards fitting, and also ask that they give me the original isolator.

 

Ken,
It's Technical Bulletin JTB00356NAS1.
I've had a look on the web for it but you've got to subscribe/pay to get it.
Not to worry though, I got a print-out of it from the indy mechanic who serviced the car last week (took a bit of arm twisting!), I'll scan it and post it up asap.

Here it is:






Edit #2 - the main part is shown as C2D40425, but a quick Goggle shows that it is the whole snout of the SC and not just the isolator, see here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Jagu...-/152150336546

 

I attached it to this post, lets see if it works.


My s/c builder is the one that told me. Eaton just sends the parts to Jaguar (I assume the rotor group, maybe some other things) and Jaguar assembles them.


Mike

 

The bulletin Mike has posted up is for the 5.0 V8, which uses different parts than the 3.0 V6 as it's a different supercharger (Eaton TVS R1900 on the V8, Eaton TVS R1320 on the V6).

 

Coupler installed backwards in the factory? Far out...

 

You are correct, I did not have the 3.0 bulletin. They did the backwards coupler on both engines to remain consistent


Mike

 

Makes you wonder what else is factory BACKWARDS?

 

Glad to say that the solid coupler was installed and everything put back. Not so bad going back in. Only issues being I had to replace the orings on the three way radiator connector but the unit is very quiet now. Very glad to have it done and hope it stays alive for a long while!

Thanks for chasing down the service bulletin for me Mike. It sure seemed like it was put out for the 3.0 model ....... not sure what the issue with the 5.0 was.

 

Just a note on removing the SC snout from the main body?
Turn the unit over and on the bottom are cast in ears that have space to insert a pry tool of some kind. Look for the black sealant as shown in this picture.
It appears Jaguar thought of this as the gasket sealer they used is very strong!



I have the shop manual but can't find what Jaguar recommends for attaching the snout to the SC?
There is no oil to leak so not sure why it even needs to be sealed?
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