XF and XFR ( X250 ) 2007 - 2015

Advice Needed: Debating between cars.

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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 04:17 AM
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Default Advice Needed: Debating between cars.

Currently I am looking at two main cars. I have considered alternative options, but at the present moment I do not believe I will regret choosing a Jaguar over its competition . I've driven the Volvo S60R, several variations of the 5 series, a Chrysler 300 series ( ) and an M3. I did think about test-driving a Mercedes E-class but my "car lover" friends have all unanimously told me to stay away from newer Mercedes vehicles and I trust their judgment.

Car #1

This is the car I fell in love with. I saw it online and couldn't get it out of my head for nearly two weeks before caving in and going to test drive it. It was everything I dreamed it would be and more. The thing that made it stand out the most to me was its unique, dark green coloring and barley interior. Not only that, but the wheels are the 19" Artura chrome wheels. It is a beautiful 2010 Jaguar XF Premium Portfolio. I never thought I'd love a beige interior--they always seem old to me--but this is the car I cannot get out of my head. It has low miles, CPO, and has the Jag warranty.

Car #2

The second car on the lot appealed to my techy side, with its silver exterior and black interior. It's definitely modern. This is a 2011 XF Luxury. It is priced within one thousand dollars of the first one, on the same lot, and is within 2k miles of the first one as well. It has the same HP and "specs" as the first but isn't the portfolio model. The wheels on this one are just the standard ones. This also is CPO with the full warranty. As I said, it's gorgeous in a completely different way from the British Racing Green version above. I am test driving it later in the week. I can appreciate both.

- - - - -
My question is, is there any reason to go for the newer 2011 model over the 2010 one besides a year of warranty? They both have 5.0L 385HP engines, they both have low miles, they both cost around the same price, and they're both gorgeous cars that drive well. The only real difference is that the older one has the portfolio and the premium packages (I definitely prefer the interior of the portfolio XF more). My gut tells me to go for the older model, but just in case, I'm double checking with you guys. The new model does have its appeal--namely in the longer warranty--but could I go wrong with either one?

Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 08:22 AM
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2011 will have the Platinum Warranty package - all standard maintenance and wear-and-tear items (except oil and tyres) included for 5 yrs/60k miles. Maybe 1 yr more warranty than the 2010 (were they 4 yrs?). This can be worthwhile if you plan to keep the car for a few years.

The 2010 has more kit - if that kit matters to you, then go for the 2010. Also sounds like you prefer it, so you won't regret it. There were no meaningful upgrades between those model years, as far as I know.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 08:26 AM
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Since both vehicles seem to appeal to you, I think I would take a close look at all the options that are installed on both vehicles to see if there is something on one that you can't live without. (i.e. Nav system, sat radio system, premium sound system with or without 6-disc changer, front parking aid and backup camera, xenon headlamps, cold-climate and/or warm-climate packages, keyless entry system, etc.)
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 08:28 AM
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On your other options - the latest Chrysler 300 is not a bad car at all, but behind the Jag on all fronts. 5 series is fine, but you will get an older, leggier car for your money. Used Jags are waaaay better value. M3 - lovely cars but I never liked the engine, which you have to rev hard to get anything out of. That is fun when you are in the mood, but as a daily driver? A well specced 335i is a better car and is near as fast in the real world, especially with some tuning.

As an ex-XFR owner, I have said on here many times that a base spec XF 5.0 V8 is a fantastic car - when I had them as loaners, I had pretty much as much fun as in my XFR because you can drive it harder. Even the base models are drivers cars.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by darlo
2011 will have the Platinum Warranty package - all standard maintenance and wear-and-tear items (except oil and tyres) included for 5 yrs/60k miles. Maybe 1 yr more warranty than the 2010 (were they 4 yrs?). This can be worthwhile if you plan to keep the car for a few years.

The 2010 has more kit - if that kit matters to you, then go for the 2010. Also sounds like you prefer it, so you won't regret it. There were no meaningful upgrades between those model years, as far as I know.
Hmm that is something important to consider and I will call and go over all of the warranty stuff to see exactly wat would be missing. Tank-you for bringing that up.

Originally Posted by Jerry S
Since both vehicles seem to appeal to you, I think I would take a close look at all the options that are installed on both vehicles to see if there is something on one that you can't live without. (i.e. Nav system, sat radio system, premium sound system with or without 6-disc changer, front parking aid and backup camera, xenon headlamps, cold-climate and/or warm-climate packages, keyless entry system, etc.)
Definitely will do that the next time I'm there.

Originally Posted by darlo
On your other options - the latest Chrysler 300 is not a bad car at all, but behind the Jag on all fronts. 5 series is fine, but you will get an older, leggier car for your money. Used Jags are waaaay better value. M3 - lovely cars but I never liked the engine, which you have to rev hard to get anything out of. That is fun when you are in the mood, but as a daily driver? A well specced 335i is a better car and is near as fast in the real world, especially with some tuning.

As an ex-XFR owner, I have said on here many times that a base spec XF 5.0 V8 is a fantastic car - when I had them as loaners, I had pretty much as much fun as in my XFR because you can drive it harder. Even the base models are drivers cars.
Test driving the latest Chrysler 300 was an interesting experience but it just flat out doesn't compare to the 5 series beamer or the XF. I suppose that's why it's priced so attractively. But a lot of people have been lauding it as a firm competitor to the two, and after driving them back to back, I just can't agree with that. It would have been a huge upgrade for me had I still owned my honda civic years back, but alas, not anymore.

That's very useful input on the other competition! I think you are spot on with the M3. It's something important for me to think about as a daily driver. It's also good to know I don't need a fancy XFR to have fun .
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 09:54 AM
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Difference new between the two trim levels was likely $5-10K which s why the 2010 is so much more money (less but not by as much as a year should make). Either the 2010 is way overpriced or someone should buy that 2011 yesterday.

Bear in mind the leather quality is way higher in the Premium Luxury, now called Portfolio. The sound systems are likely way different with the Bowers & Wilkins costing a larg sum extra over the base system.

Bargain the price down on the 2010 to what it should be, after pricing the relative option lists. Those option lists and price differentials are pretty much the same for the 2013 as they were back then although the base trim, called Luxury, is higher now and for less money than on launch in 2009.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jagular
Difference new between the two trim levels was likely $5-10K which s why the 2010 is so much more money (less but not by as much as a year should make). Either the 2010 is way overpriced or someone should buy that 2011 yesterday.

Bear in mind the leather quality is way higher in the Premium Luxury, now called Portfolio. The sound systems are likely way different with the Bowers & Wilkins costing a larg sum extra over the base system.

Bargain the price down on the 2010 to what it should be, after pricing the relative option lists. Those option lists and price differentials are pretty much the same for the 2013 as they were back then although the base trim, called Luxury, is higher now and for less money than on launch in 2009.
I think the 2011 is just attractively priced. The 2010 is not overpriced by any means. There is another 2010 portfolio that has 10,000 more miles and is $5,000 cheaper, but it also does NOT have the warranty on it. It is the cheapest one in a 50 mile radius. Beyond that, all the 2010 portfolios are more expensive.

The 2010 Portfolio is priced about the same as its value--I already pegged that out on several sites including KBB--and leaves me a couple thousand of wiggle room which I was definitely planning on using.

The 2010 has a nicer interior with upgraded leather, an upgraded sound system, and cooled seats (the 2011 just has heated seats, no cooled). The interior and leather are noticeably nicer to me. The only benefit to the 2011 is that it has an extra year of warranty, but it appears to be a base model with only minimal things added.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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Go for the 2010...the stereo alone is worth it haha. Warranty is a nice to have but they are both CPO so you should be fine. If you enjoy the 2010 more (looks and options) that should be enough to put you in it rather than the 2011. I would say negotiate on the 2010 based on the 2011 being only slightly more expensive. I know when I purchased mine (2009 purchased 2012 with every option on it) I managed to get about 11% off list price AND they shipped it in at their expense.

Go for the 2010...you will be happier.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by AaronW
Go for the 2010...the stereo alone is worth it haha. Warranty is a nice to have but they are both CPO so you should be fine. If you enjoy the 2010 more (looks and options) that should be enough to put you in it rather than the 2011. I would say negotiate on the 2010 based on the 2011 being only slightly more expensive. I know when I purchased mine (2009 purchased 2012 with every option on it) I managed to get about 11% off list price AND they shipped it in at their expense.

Go for the 2010...you will be happier.
Have to agree that the options make the difference, stereo, leather, cooled seats (I use them on my car, particularly on long trips but not a deal breaker IMO). Good luck. Post photos!
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 03:51 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I'm test driving both tomorrow (well I suppose today). I'll be doing a night test drive. (I like to do that with cars to see how their lights work and what the cabin is like at night, because I do a lot of night driving). I can't wait to see the car again. Today I test drove a Volvo S60R. Very, very nice car but honestly doesn't drive anything like the XF--I suppose that's why it's a lot cheaper.

It's going to be tempting not to put down my offer for the jag right away tomorrow night and go through with the purchase. I'd prefer to go in during the day thursday and take things slowly. Any tips on negotiating would be stellar since I want to get the price down by about/at least $1,500 while negotiating a bigger return on my trade-in.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by moiph
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm test driving both tomorrow (well I suppose today). I'll be doing a night test drive. (I like to do that with cars to see how their lights work and what the cabin is like at night, because I do a lot of night driving). I can't wait to see the car again. Today I test drove a Volvo S60R. Very, very nice car but honestly doesn't drive anything like the XF--I suppose that's why it's a lot cheaper.

It's going to be tempting not to put down my offer for the jag right away tomorrow night and go through with the purchase. I'd prefer to go in during the day thursday and take things slowly. Any tips on negotiating would be stellar since I want to get the price down by about/at least $1,500 while negotiating a bigger return on my trade-in.
Whenever I've gone to buy a Car, 'Cash is always King' as whenever you do a Trade in, Dealers seem to instinctively know that while you would love to buy their car you don't want your old one anymore.

And as a result of that desire, its easy to lose out, so if you can get a private sale on your old car, then you have a much better chance to negotiate a much better price on the new one.

As while they may be offering what you may 'think' is a great price for your old car, they should certainly have enough profit in hand to enable them to do that.

Whenever you go to buy a Car my advice for what its worth would be:

Look at every car on the Lot 'except the one you really want to buy'

Go for a test drive in any car 'except the one you really want to buy'

Get into a conversation about any car 'except the one you really want to buy'

Show no interest whatsoever in the car you want to buy, then just sort of come across it like a bit of an afterthought while you are having a look round with the dealer.

Its a bit like playing poker, once you show your hand then its game over, so an apparent lack of interest is important, in other words turn the tables and get them to sell it to you, rather than the other way around.

Never reveal your budget under any circumstances, just tell them you are going round to look for the best deal that can be done.

Then hit then with a low offer, as while you can always go up you can never come down!

I'm not a great lover of Dealers, as although they can give you a guarantee, I always prefer to buy Private.

If you are lucky enough to have the cash, then you have the power as its always hard for a seller to turn down a sale, when some guy is standing there, making a cash offer and is ready to walk away right there and then.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 07:53 AM
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"I want to get the price down by about/at least $1,500 while negotiating a bigger return on my trade-in"

Makes life complicated and has you negotiating on two fronts. Just look at the "cost to change" i.e. how much cash you will give them, plus your car, to drive away with tags, title and taxes etc. paid. At the end of the day, it is this amount that matters to you. I always do this and usually end up with a good deal. Tell them that is all the cash you have - makes it easier to hold your line.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:19 AM
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Absolutely the correct way to deal. In fact, the simplest for the customer is to negotiate the trade in value first, then the difference. Once you get that difference down to as low as possible you then have the option of making it all cash and selling your own trade. Do it any other way and you'll never know what you trade in might actually sell for on a bad day.

Rest assured that dealership can negotiate any way you want.
 
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