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Blown motor

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Old 10-08-2018, 11:45 PM
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Default Blown motor

I have a 2012 jaguar xfr and I think the motor is blown. Can I have it rebuilt or should I just replace it?
 
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Old 10-09-2018, 05:45 PM
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What makes you think blown / how bad is the damage

If so, no great options. I used replacement is typically around $8-10k and no guarantees whether it has been treated well. With installation you're in the $12k plus range
Repair is very hard / not a lot of people do it and hard to find parts. Plus with labour you quickly get up there in cost. See recent post on XJ forum with estimates for rebuild cost

Some people find selling for parting out and buying a replacement to be lower cost and easier
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 01:27 AM
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Default Rebuilt

Do you think I can have it rebuilt?
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Mack1418 View Post
Do you think I can have it rebuilt?
Did you read his reply?
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by lotusespritse View Post
Did you read his reply?
Thank you, i just re read it again
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by BritCars View Post
What makes you think blown / how bad is the damage

If so, no great options. I used replacement is typically around $8-10k and no guarantees whether it has been treated well. With installation you're in the $12k plus range
Repair is very hard / not a lot of people do it and hard to find parts. Plus with labour you quickly get up there in cost. See recent post on XJ forum with estimates for rebuild cost

Some people find selling for parting out and buying a replacement to be lower cost and easier
Coolant light was on, car started clacking, car started to emit white smoke from under the hood and eventually turned off. Car wouldn’t turn over or shift into neutral. Tow trucker had to use a chain mechanism to pull car onto bed.
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:42 AM
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Sounds like overheating caused the problem. Could be a lot of internal damage depending on how badly the engine overheated and it sounds to me it was quite bad.
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:11 PM
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Another one bites the dust due to all the plastic in the cooling lines. It would be interesting to see the stats on the number of blow engines due to coolant system failure.

Hurts me that there's no way to save these people because they just can't accept that all this plastic needs to be replaced on a maintenance schedule. I get that it's an expensive and difficult job, but it's better than playing Russian roulette with 5 bullets in the chamber, which is what you are doing if your plastic is more than 5-6 years old.

To the original poster, sell the car for parts as is. That is your ONLY good option. Up to you if you want to buy another one, but if you do, budget to have all the plastic replaced, which is about $1500 in parts with a water pump, and probably $1500-2000 in labor if you're not handy.
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:34 PM
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Unfortunately +1 on that.
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mack1418 View Post
Coolant light was on, car started clacking, car started to emit white smoke from under the hood and eventually turned off. Car wouldn’t turn over or shift into neutral. Tow trucker had to use a chain mechanism to pull car onto bed.
These motors are extremely susceptible to overheating.
Coolant light was on - You have 1-10 seconds to get the engine shut off.
Car started clacking - Shut off engine immediately - zero seconds.
Car started to emit white smoke from under the hood - Too late, you're already dead.

Rebuilding a seized up engine will almost certainly cost much more than the car will be worth when finished. Learn from this expensive lesson.
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:01 PM
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I bet the number of XFs going to the junk yard because of blown engines is higher than the number going for accident damage. That's why the engines are so expensive used.

If you ever do buy a used engine of this vintage, make sure to have the timing chains replaced before reinstalling. That's a bear of a job to do in the car, and like the plastic cooling pipes, it's a maintenance item on these cars too.
 

Last edited by lotusespritse; 10-11-2018 at 10:33 PM.
  #12  
Old 10-12-2018, 01:30 AM
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Seems 5.0SC is more fragile than 4.2SC. Honestly I and indy have tried kill it but unsuscesfully. we tried virtualyeveryting-
1)driving without coolant,
2)drive with stuck radiator in hot summer, driving with yellow, then red warnings 180km.
3)tiried to dar agressively with stuck radiator and oil level lower than minimum (dont ask, I trusted dealer)
4) started car after 2 days off in minus 10 degrees below zero, and from the first seconds cars RPM went to 7000RPM (wrong gearbox TCM lead to infinetly increasing rpm)
I could count more, but this engine suprprise me in good manier. mileage no 180 000miles no ratling under startup from cold, all horses is here. I was thinking to buy sligthtly used engine (40 000miles) just in case, but the more i spent with this engine the more I realise that its not that easy to kill it. when i read about 5.0SC or 2.7-3.0 PSA diesels I justs cant understand why they changed design. 4.2sc was very good engine. and good sounding. if jaguar wanted more power just add TVS charger, thats all.
 
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Old 10-12-2018, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by elviukai View Post
Seems 5.0SC is more fragile than 4.2SC. Honestly I and indy have tried kill it but unsuscesfully. we tried virtualyeveryting-
1)driving without coolant,
2)drive with stuck radiator in hot summer, driving with yellow, then red warnings 180km.
3)tiried to dar agressively with stuck radiator and oil level lower than minimum (dont ask, I trusted dealer)
4) started car after 2 days off in minus 10 degrees below zero, and from the first seconds cars RPM went to 7000RPM (wrong gearbox TCM lead to infinetly increasing rpm)
I could count more, but this engine suprprise me in good manier. mileage no 180 000miles no ratling under startup from cold, all horses is here. I was thinking to buy sligthtly used engine (40 000miles) just in case, but the more i spent with this engine the more I realise that its not that easy to kill it. when i read about 5.0SC or 2.7-3.0 PSA diesels I justs cant understand why they changed design. 4.2sc was very good engine. and good sounding. if jaguar wanted more power just add TVS charger, thats all.
So how far did you drive without coolant? Not buying the 4.2 can last very long without coolant without seizing. It's a nice story, but not possible for a water cooled engine, otherwise the factory would have made it an air-cooled engine.

Once you drive the 5.0L, you will understand why Jag made it. It's the best all-around engine I have ever experienced in a car, I have/had some of the most renowned engines in history.
 
  #14  
Old 10-12-2018, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by lotusespritse View Post
So how far did you drive without coolant? Not buying the 4.2 can last very long without coolant without seizing. It's a nice story, but not possible for a water cooled engine, otherwise the factory would have made it an air-cooled engine.

Once you drive the 5.0L, you will understand why Jag made it. It's the best all-around engine I have ever experienced in a car, I have/had some of the most renowned engines in history.
around 12km. and of course i did not rev it.
well " Once you drive the 5.0L, you will understand" i drove friends XFR with 600+ horses and 700+nM few time and it was fantastics- instant torgue from 1000rpm. a big diference between 4.2SC and this 5.0SC. but thats do not answer my concern. I plan to buy F-type R with 5.0SC but i would never ever drive it daily. 5.0SC need to be pampered and tapered . and low mileage. try drive 250 000miles on TVS supercharger or change spark plugs. its no joy. for everyday abuse 4.2SC is obviuos desision. Also not much people knows that 4.2SC with LSD is very nice machine. and when you have cool charger, tune and uper puley, 470horses LSD is not far away from 5.0SC. by saying not far I mean not all (some will) people will notice diferencies in blind test.
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by elviukai View Post
i drove friends XFR with 600+ horses and 700+nM few time and it was fantastics- instant torgue from 1000rpm. a big diference between 4.2SC and this 5.0SC. but thats do not answer my concern. I plan to buy F-type R with 5.0SC but i would never ever drive it daily. 5.0SC need to be pampered and tapered .
Similar spec to my '10 XKR and I use it as a daily driver and there is no reason why an F Type R shouldn't be. I take it to work every day, I chuck my sailing gear in the back every weekend and it goes to the supermarket. The only place I don't take it is up the mountain when I go snowboarding. I have a Subaru Outback for that.
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 05:02 AM
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I repair and do maintenence for my car by myself. Having 30 000miles a year means my hands will be covered in blood( not that 4.2SC is very easy acess for that) its just physics- low viscosity oil+direct injection+TVS charger+plastics timing chains tensioners/water pump) is NOT so good for everyday high mileage driving.
 
  #17  
Old 10-18-2018, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by elviukai View Post
around 12km. and of course i did not rev it.
well " Once you drive the 5.0L, you will understand" i drove friends XFR with 600+ horses and 700+nM few time and it was fantastics- instant torgue from 1000rpm. a big diference between 4.2SC and this 5.0SC. but thats do not answer my concern. I plan to buy F-type R with 5.0SC but i would never ever drive it daily. 5.0SC need to be pampered and tapered . and low mileage. try drive 250 000miles on TVS supercharger or change spark plugs. its no joy. for everyday abuse 4.2SC is obviuos desision. Also not much people knows that 4.2SC with LSD is very nice machine. and when you have cool charger, tune and uper puley, 470horses LSD is not far away from 5.0SC. by saying not far I mean not all (some will) people will notice diferencies in blind test.
any idea if Ftype LSD fits 08 4.2 KXR?
 
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Old 10-21-2018, 01:54 PM
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I purchased an 09 XF-S with 179k miles on it and a blown motor. I just finished having a 32k mile engine dropped in. When we pulled the old engine we found that it failed because the previous owner tried to JB Weld the radiator and also one of the coolant lines by the supercharger failed. So it also was a cooling failure as mentioned above.

I'm a used car dealer and have been playing with many of the 100k plus European cars. I've found that if you are going to buy a European car that is near 100k miles or over you should do a whole overhaul. I've seen various failures across from all models and makes. Considering these cars were all $50k or more people should expect when you get to 100k miles it is time to set aside $5000 and rehab the car. I'm sure if you do this the car will easily last another 100k miles. Do you need to invest that type of money? No. But as others have mentioned its like russian roulette.

When I buy any used car for myself I immediately overhaul it. Replace the entire cooling system (Radiator, water pump, all coolant lines, thermostat etc), replace all fluids, replace all rubber lines, replace sensors, replace all rubber lines and seals, replace all emissions components. If you do all of this stuff and bring your car close to factory new without tearing into the actual engine I've found that these cars last much, much longer. I'm also a huge believer in good fluids will return longevity in your drivetrain. I swear by Royal Purple and have numerous times in multiple cars including my Viper I just sold have sent the oil in for testing results to Blackstone Labs and have always had astounding results. The HPS version is my favorite. You can actually hear a difference in many of these cars with how nicely it idles with HPS.

Thanks to the internet and forums like this we all have a place to try out different things and let each other know what does or doesn't work. This site has helped me numerous times in my build. Use it for your build. It is an endless wealth of knowledge!
 
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Old 10-21-2018, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by AlexJag View Post
any idea if Ftype LSD fits 08 4.2 KXR?
only if you replace rear subframe, driveshafts, prop shaft (both pieces)
 
  #20  
Old 10-23-2018, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by High Mileage Jaguar
I purchased an 09 XF-S with 179k miles on it and a blown motor. I just finished having a 32k mile engine dropped in. When we pulled the old engine we found that it failed because the previous owner tried to JB Weld the radiator and also one of the coolant lines by the supercharger failed. So it also was a cooling failure as mentioned above.

I'm a used car dealer and have been playing with many of the 100k plus European cars. I've found that if you are going to buy a European car that is near 100k miles or over you should do a whole overhaul. I've seen various failures across from all models and makes. Considering these cars were all $50k or more people should expect when you get to 100k miles it is time to set aside $5000 and rehab the car. I'm sure if you do this the car will easily last another 100k miles. Do you need to invest that type of money? No. But as others have mentioned its like russian roulette.

When I buy any used car for myself I immediately overhaul it. Replace the entire cooling system (Radiator, water pump, all coolant lines, thermostat etc), replace all fluids, replace all rubber lines, replace sensors, replace all rubber lines and seals, replace all emissions components. If you do all of this stuff and bring your car close to factory new without tearing into the actual engine I've found that these cars last much, much longer. I'm also a huge believer in good fluids will return longevity in your drivetrain. I swear by Royal Purple and have numerous times in multiple cars including my Viper I just sold have sent the oil in for testing results to Blackstone Labs and have always had astounding results. The HPS version is my favorite. You can actually hear a difference in many of these cars with how nicely it idles with HPS.

Thanks to the internet and forums like this we all have a place to try out different things and let each other know what does or doesn't work. This site has helped me numerous times in my build. Use it for your build. It is an endless wealth of knowledge!
Thanks for sharing. How did the economics work out overall on this. A few folks here and CJ with failed engines have found that if you are in an older (2009-11) vehicle, the cost of buying then installing a replacement used engine is more than just ditching the car and replacing with a similar car. Do you think you ended up ahead financially - given a 2009 isn't that much to buy now?
Thanks for sharing your experiences
 

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