While under warranty always brought to jag dealerships..
Went to a jag place recommended by many of this board.

had the from pads changed- I specifically asked for only OEM pads.
I have been noticing squeaks when slowly stopping.
I had the rotors done and pads done 14k miles-
went through set of pads- and JUST had them changed.

I called the mechanic he 100% verified its jag pads-
(i had pads changed at dealership though the years- maybe a day of squeak-till broken in then silent)

he said "probably due to not doing rotors at same time".. have trouble believing that.. he said bring in he will lube or something to them.

I am also wondering if its due to weather- in my area (NY) is like 12 degrees- so i wait till it gets back to 30-40 degrees and see if still happens.
and ideas?
tks

 

It can be due to re-using rotors if you don't resurface them. If it bothers you that much and you have enough material left on the rotors have them resurfaced. Otherwise swap the rotors with some new ones.

 

Using rotors twice is generally a bad idea nowadays. Pads are too hard and wear them out. Swap out for new rotors and I bet the squealing stops.

 

Just slow down a minute. Before you replace or resurface the rotors be sure the back side of the pads have a coating of anti seize grease or CRC Disc Brake Quiet* product. Used/unresurfaced rotors have to be really screwed up to be unsatisfactory.

* if your pads are shimmed do not use but anti seize grease may be used on either.

 

True, but pad noise results from the harmonic vibration of the pad edges amplified through the rotors. The anti-seize on the back of the pads doesn't stop the vibration but prevents it from being amplified.

The point is that the old rotors will wear down below minimum thickness before the second set of pads is worn down so you save nothing by trying to use the old rotors. Skimming them just maes this problem worse. Change pads and rotors each time and save money and squealing.

Putting anti seize on now costs the same labour as the pad replacement in the first place.

Finally, bed those new brakes in properly before you worry about a little squealing. Google Stop Tech brakes and read their technical papers on best bedding in practices, then go and do that.

 

Your belief that rotors will wear down below spec before the 2nd set of pads is used up has not been my experience.

With the exception of warped rotors, I have never replaced a rotor after just one set of pads have been installed and that includes 5 Jags and misc. other cars and trucks. I agree that if the rotor has to be resurfaced it may be a toss up on which component wears out first. I had an XJS on it's 3rd set of pads with original rotors when I sold it.

I do avoid turning down rotors for the very reason you stated. Some of my cars (not Jags) had surface hardened rotors that were ruined by being machined down.

Admittedly, I am very easy on brakes and until recent years didn't use ceramics. I am somewhat attuned to brake and ride dynamics so I don't think it's a question of a "numb nut" behind the wheel .

Have others had the same experience?????

 

Well, if you don't brake hard then maybe. Have you actually verified that those rotors were still above minimum thickness when you did replace them?

You should be aware that brake efficiency is directly affected by rotor mass. The pads actually aren't the key component. The thinner the rotors get the hotter they get and the hotter the pads get in any given braking event. The minimum thickness is specified for this reason. Hot brakes can be weaker than brakes operating at optimum design temperatures. Thinner rotors will wear brake pads more rapidly for this reason.

Be careful economizing on brakes. I can't because I drive too fast to make my brakes last.

 

yes - the from rotor thickness are fine - i had rotors and pads down 14k miles ago.
mechanic said
front pads have to to replaced- front rotors good

back pads and rotors need to be replaced in -6-7k miles
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and he didn't know i did th front pads rotors/snf read pads14k miles ago.
i want /need to trust u - many of u recommend him if in NY area.
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in past i was told by Jag pads "go" in NYC driving - robots should be changed every 2-3 sets of pads.

I have had pads installed ny Jag delaer - and not rotor-
never a squeak after 2nd day.
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car is 09 as stated
can't believe they didn't include "check brake sensor' as in2010 -201
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he also said - forget jag service manual- if u want to keep the car running right we of all the 100k maintenance at 60k for like $1000;
antifreeze- fluids - plugs- fuel injector cleaning u name it - trans oil- differential oil
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i did have cars in past i could do 3/4 of above on my own - no way i will attempt those on my own- reference my post how to change gas filter.
I have a hammer
I can make a hold in the wall

you guys answering are great

had em all fords to mercedes to toyota to bmw jag -
this car was most trouble free omitting a squeaky sun roof which was died i ever owned

 

Spark plugs are special very long life plugs and really do not need changing.

Fuel injector cleaning is no longer recommended unless your engine is actually malfunctioning due to using inferior quality fuel for lengthy periods.

Changing transmission oil and differential oil is not recommended by the transmission manufacturer or Jaguar. These are sealed for life and do not need servicing. Transmission manufacturers realize that the risk of incorrect servicing exceeds the risk of lubricant failure. Modern synthetic lubricants really do last forever.

If your transmission or differential is submerged in water then you must have the lubricants flushed and replaced immediately. If you routinely tow a heavy trailer then XF recommends replacing the transmission fluid at 80,000 miles.

Modern automatics do not use their torque converters much so do not thrash the lubricant as much. Planetary gearsets have low tooth loadings.

 

geez your email killed me - I also read abt some fluids never need replacing……
You have no idea how bad the dealerships in NY/LI are.