Been driving me new (to me) 2009 XF supercharged. 53000 miles and gonna change the entire break system. Rotors, calipers and of course pads. I have done a search but evidently I do not know how. Can't find anything on the brakes and I know it has to be somewhere. She is faster than my 2005 SRT-10 with many mods so am concerned about the breaks. If someone would point me to the location for advice on make etc. it would be much appreciated. Or just tell me what the forum has found to be the best. DD but often on the throttle.
Thanks in advance.

 

What are you looking to achieve with the brake job? Are they not working properly? Or some sort of upgrade

Lots have moved to ceramic pads - the Porterfield R4-S is a popular option. I have those on my 2010 5.0 SC. Some also done drilled / slotted (Eg R1 concepts) - but I found I got bad pedal pulsation and have gone back to OEM rotors

I have seen a couple of people do calipers too - but it's expensive and not sure there's a lot of benefit unless you are racing it?

 

First I do Know how to spell brakes. Tired old man. Thanks for the come back. I am looking to upgrade. Rear rotors are worn and need replacing. Just turned the front and the wobble has come back. Really thinking about new rotors, pad and calipers. Do not race cept for signal light with whoever wants to play. Here in West Texas we have roads that one can drive as fast he likes as the roads are straight, smooth and little to no traffic. Had my SRT-10 up to 137 mph before I got tight in the hinny. The truck still had more speed but I did not.

Back to the issues. I want brakes that do not fade and I don't have to worry about stopping---If I do my part in exercising good judgment. I see a lot of posts concerning caliper sticking. So I am thinking new calipers as well as rotors.
Thanks again for replying

 

Thanks for all the replies----I will figure it out on my own. Sure ain't VTCOA.

 

Not sure who VTCOA is. But you posted on New Year's Day when most people are on holiday / sobering up, so I'm not surprised you didn't get much of a reply
But I was trying to help you. You hadn't actually said what the issue is

Sounds like you need new rotors. I'd suggest the OEM ones as I've had uneven wear issues on aftermarket.
For pads go ceramic for less dust and better performance. As above the Porterfield if they have them in your size. Or EBC RedStuff.

I wouldn't replace calipers. They rarely have issues on this car. Flush brake fluid, check they aren't sticking. And then enjoy!!

 

Sounds like great advice to me. Having said that , I replaced my rotors with Tarox slotted rotors- (not sure they were worth the cost but they have been excellent) , brake pads with EBC redstuff, flushed brake system of course but kept original calipers- not sure what OP's reference was to sticking calipers that necessitated you had to replace rather than sercice/make sure calipers weren't neglected and covered in salt from winter roads ( OP is in Texas ) ??
IMHO, brakes on my supercharged XF 2008/2009 are excellent in OEM form - I wasn't impressed with the brake dust though , EBC redstuff pads are much "cleaner" and better feel for the way I drive.
OP - HTH

 

OP,
I'm guessing that with a 2009 XF Supercharged you have the early version with the 4.2 litre V8 and not the later version with the 5.0 litre V8.
I you do have the earlier version then you have the 355 mm front and 326 mm rear brakes as opposed to the 380 mm front and 376 mm rear brakes on the later version.
Those bigger brakes are stock on the 2009 - 2015 XFR and they are a fair bit more powerful than the earlier/smaller ones, and the good news is that the bigger brakes are a straight bolt on swap for you.
The bad news is that the parts can be expensive unless you can find used calipers and caliper brackets which come up from time to time on Fleabay etc.
Of course you should get new rotors/discs and pads but they are not all that expensive, plenty of new kits out there especially for the XFR.
You will also need new splash/dust shields but they are fairly cheap.
Swapping the brakes over is a simple job for any half competent shade tree mechanic.
Edit - forgot to add - if you swap to the 380 mm front brakes you will also need 20" wheels as 18"or 19" do not fit over them.

 

Well- it does seem you are disappointed at the quiet response to your original post. I do wish I had something more useful to offer you. Maybe there are not so many mods for the XF because it was pretty much OK to start with compared to some other vehicles ???

 

Please forgive me for my abruptness on my last post concerning "breaks".. VTCOA is the forum for Viper Trucks, the SRT-10's, and was the place for repairs, add on's, great advice, lies and some fights. Was the most helpful forum for the 10 yrs that I owned my beast. I seriously could not have been able to maintain and modify my truck without the help from the forum guys.

That said, I am genuinely sorry for writing an offensive post. Please forgive.

 

DADVPR, I've merged your apology with the original thread.

We can all get tetchy from time to time.

 

No worries!
Did we answer what you are looking for?

Consensus seems to be bleed fluid, and repair a caliper if sticking (but not a common issue). New rotors (OEM or drilled/slotted if you like the look) and ceramic pads like Porterfield or EBC RedStuff
And the more expensive option is to upgrade to the bigger calipers and brakes from the 2010- SC models (but will cost a fair bit)

 

Hey Britcars, thanks for the comeback. I am ordering drilled and slotted rotors, new pads and if the calipers look as if they are sticking then I will replaced them. I am really tired of the wobble when touching the brake. Started 200 miles after turning the front rotors. If all works as planed I may even down the road look to increase the size of the rear rotors and calipers. They look awfully flimsy and I am told that the actually activate before the front. Hence the rear wear out much faster. Most likely a Ford brainstorm.
Thanks again and I will report back.

 

Sticking calipers is rarely if ever a good reason to replace them, a simple clean up and/or refurb will almost always do the trick.
Most of the time a "sticking caliper" is simply the caliper slide pin sticking inside the slide pin sleeve, and cleaning the pin and the sleeve does the trick for almost zero cost besides a little time.
Sometimes the brake piston seals have deteriorated and need replacing and you can buy kits for this on Fleabay for cheap.
So my suggestion is that when you replace the rotors and pads also clean up the calipers, slide pins and sleeves and see how you go.
Some (me included) like to lightly grease the caliper slide pins (after cleaning them and the sleeves) with proper high-temp ceramic brake grease, others argue there is no need to do this and the grease simply attracts brake dust, this debate has been raging for years and there is no definitive answer. All I can say is I have greased those slide pins numerous times on three Jags now and I have never had a single problem with the brakes.

 

I'd agree with Oz. I also lube the slide pins
A good tutorial on here on the jag brake changing - a couple of unusual socket sizes. And you have to wind the rear calipers due to the electronic parking brake. Don't just force them in

Would also have alignment, geometry and wheel hubs (and wheels themselves) checked by a shop if you're getting wobble. Could be caused by something bent/worn or out of alignment.

 

OZ and Brit----this is the kind of info I was speaking about. All the above will be noted and followed.
Thanks so much for you gracious help.
I will report back.
Cheers--I think that is what they say in England, here in Texas we just say----adios

 

Well if you are really serious about upgrading consider what the F-Type guys have done.
Two Piece Rotor Brakes

But I have to ask how hard are you planning to drive the car? Track racing? The stock brakes are very good and maybe just a pad change would get you where you want to be? The above brakes will run you $5K+ to install. That's a LOT of money for a car that is otherwise stock. Now they are beautiful bits and man do they look good on the car!!



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Whoo man, just a little far for me. I did about $12,000 in modes to my SRT-10 but can't find many mods for our cars other than a pully. She runs great just want the best stopping power and NO peddle pulsating when I use the brake.
Thanks for the help.