A couple of tips
Good afternoon everyone. So, I have a 2008 jaguar xf diesel. And as most of us over a certain age will attest, we all get a few issues as we get older.
Mine started last winter, lots of rain down here in Cornwall, and, while out shopping, returned to the car to find the hazards flashing away. After much button pressing, to no avail, I decided to go home and address the issue. All the way home, they didn't stop.
So, after searching about on Google, it seems that there is a "box" in the boot, rear right side under all the matting. This box gets damp, for no apparent reason, the water that accumulates on the rear of this box causes it to "freak out", and, in my case, turn on the hazards and be unable to turn them off.
After a bit of a fight, I managed to remove the box, dried out out over a couple of days in front of a dehumidifier, and, replaced it. And, success, no more issues there for now at least.
Next one, briefly, passenger door window, made an ungodly awful grinding noise yesterday, and, the window refused then to go up. Today, removed the door card, and, witnessed the hell inside. Seems that the cable that drives the window up and down had snapped and, unfortunately curled up into the regulator motor unit. After an hour of faffing about, I finally managed to remove all of the window lift components. To ebay... 40 quid later, managed to get a bargain (hopefully) of all the cables and, middle spool for the regulator. The fun bit is going to be putting it all together again.
So, I'm a bit of a techie, electrical engineer and consummate potterer. If you need any advice, feel free to give me a shout 👍👍👍
Mine started last winter, lots of rain down here in Cornwall, and, while out shopping, returned to the car to find the hazards flashing away. After much button pressing, to no avail, I decided to go home and address the issue. All the way home, they didn't stop.
So, after searching about on Google, it seems that there is a "box" in the boot, rear right side under all the matting. This box gets damp, for no apparent reason, the water that accumulates on the rear of this box causes it to "freak out", and, in my case, turn on the hazards and be unable to turn them off.
After a bit of a fight, I managed to remove the box, dried out out over a couple of days in front of a dehumidifier, and, replaced it. And, success, no more issues there for now at least.
Next one, briefly, passenger door window, made an ungodly awful grinding noise yesterday, and, the window refused then to go up. Today, removed the door card, and, witnessed the hell inside. Seems that the cable that drives the window up and down had snapped and, unfortunately curled up into the regulator motor unit. After an hour of faffing about, I finally managed to remove all of the window lift components. To ebay... 40 quid later, managed to get a bargain (hopefully) of all the cables and, middle spool for the regulator. The fun bit is going to be putting it all together again.
So, I'm a bit of a techie, electrical engineer and consummate potterer. If you need any advice, feel free to give me a shout 👍👍👍
If it got wet before you must find the leak or it will get wet and fail again.
I replace the entire regulator and don't mess with the cables and trying to get all that back together correctly. The XF is an updated S-Type/Lincoln LS and those models also had many window regulator failures. The good thing is since it's so common the regulators are pretty easy to get.
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I replace the entire regulator and don't mess with the cables and trying to get all that back together correctly. The XF is an updated S-Type/Lincoln LS and those models also had many window regulator failures. The good thing is since it's so common the regulators are pretty easy to get.
.
.
.
So, the actual job was a pig to do, but, well worth it. It's definitely a DIY fix, and, thanks to eBay the repair kit was cheap at only £40. But, it is a pig of a job to do.
Hints and tips if you want to do it yourself.
Firstly, patience is a must. You really do need to get your head around it.
When you remove the old window regulator, take pictures. Where each screw and bolt goes.
When it comes to taking the glass out, have the window up about 2 thirds of the way, this makes it easier to get at the plastic connectors that you have to open to remove the glass. (and, you'll really want two of you to do this)
Once the glass is out, unscrew the screws that hold in the two "arms" that the glass moves up and down. Once they are out, you can move them out of the gap in the door. Don't forget, at this point, unplug the regulator motor.
The rest is a real pig to do. With my kit, I had all the cables and the central winding unit that fits inside the regular (motor). My advice at this stage, take pictures of what you have in front of you as you'll need to remember which cable goes where.
Once you have refitted your cables into position, DO NOT put the regulator back together YET. If you do, you will no longer have free movement and you'll be unable to move the window sliders down to "zero position" this is extremely important you take notice of this as your window will not go up or down fully.
You'll find that the cables are exceptionally tight, but, there's an easy trick, (only learned through scraped knuckles and sore fingers), use the cutout in the plastic wheel to "pull" the cable around, whilst using a long nose set of pliers to rotate it into position. It's a tight fit, but it does go.
Lastly, before refitting to the car, ensure the cables coming out of the regulator are the correct way round. If not, you'll find down is up and up is down, unfortunately, I made this mistake and yep, learned the hard way.
Once you've got it right, refit to the car, very easy, but, use a magnetised attachment as you'll find the screws fall off very easily trying to refit them, and you won't have to root around in the bottom of your door, yep, did that too lol.
So, once you've refitted it, BEFORE you put the glass in, lift and lower a few times. Check to make sure you have full extension to the top and bottom. Do not use one touch, hold the button up, then down then back up again.. Now, move the window sliders about 2 thirds of the way up, grab your glamorous assistant, and, feed the glass back in. Do the "thin edge" first, and, ensure as the glass is being fed in, don't let it push the seal down, use your fingers to open the gap as it's going in.
Make sure the glass "clicks" into the tabs, and click them closed. Now, try full down, again, don't use one touch, hold down, then, back up, hold up, no one touch. Test 3 times up and down, reset your one touch. Swear profusely in joy, check your scraped knuckles and sore fingers. Pour a beer, sit back and congratulate yourselves at saving a load of money by doing it yourself.
In the UK, you are looking at £200 pounds pretty much for a full unit, ready made and ready to put in, the repair kit is £40, a big saving and you can definitely do it yourself. I would hate to think how much a mechanic would charge you to do this job as its definitely a swine to do, but, perseverance and a smidge of common sense can save you a pot of money, unless of course you have a swear jar and then, it'll be full and you'll lose money 😂
Hints and tips if you want to do it yourself.
Firstly, patience is a must. You really do need to get your head around it.
When you remove the old window regulator, take pictures. Where each screw and bolt goes.
When it comes to taking the glass out, have the window up about 2 thirds of the way, this makes it easier to get at the plastic connectors that you have to open to remove the glass. (and, you'll really want two of you to do this)
Once the glass is out, unscrew the screws that hold in the two "arms" that the glass moves up and down. Once they are out, you can move them out of the gap in the door. Don't forget, at this point, unplug the regulator motor.
The rest is a real pig to do. With my kit, I had all the cables and the central winding unit that fits inside the regular (motor). My advice at this stage, take pictures of what you have in front of you as you'll need to remember which cable goes where.
Once you have refitted your cables into position, DO NOT put the regulator back together YET. If you do, you will no longer have free movement and you'll be unable to move the window sliders down to "zero position" this is extremely important you take notice of this as your window will not go up or down fully.
You'll find that the cables are exceptionally tight, but, there's an easy trick, (only learned through scraped knuckles and sore fingers), use the cutout in the plastic wheel to "pull" the cable around, whilst using a long nose set of pliers to rotate it into position. It's a tight fit, but it does go.
Lastly, before refitting to the car, ensure the cables coming out of the regulator are the correct way round. If not, you'll find down is up and up is down, unfortunately, I made this mistake and yep, learned the hard way.
Once you've got it right, refit to the car, very easy, but, use a magnetised attachment as you'll find the screws fall off very easily trying to refit them, and you won't have to root around in the bottom of your door, yep, did that too lol.
So, once you've refitted it, BEFORE you put the glass in, lift and lower a few times. Check to make sure you have full extension to the top and bottom. Do not use one touch, hold the button up, then down then back up again.. Now, move the window sliders about 2 thirds of the way up, grab your glamorous assistant, and, feed the glass back in. Do the "thin edge" first, and, ensure as the glass is being fed in, don't let it push the seal down, use your fingers to open the gap as it's going in.
Make sure the glass "clicks" into the tabs, and click them closed. Now, try full down, again, don't use one touch, hold down, then, back up, hold up, no one touch. Test 3 times up and down, reset your one touch. Swear profusely in joy, check your scraped knuckles and sore fingers. Pour a beer, sit back and congratulate yourselves at saving a load of money by doing it yourself.
In the UK, you are looking at £200 pounds pretty much for a full unit, ready made and ready to put in, the repair kit is £40, a big saving and you can definitely do it yourself. I would hate to think how much a mechanic would charge you to do this job as its definitely a swine to do, but, perseverance and a smidge of common sense can save you a pot of money, unless of course you have a swear jar and then, it'll be full and you'll lose money 😂
I've moved your post from General Tech Help to X250 forum. This is the place for technical posts on your model.
Graham
Graham
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