did late night DYNO run just now. 2010 XFR
car made 413hp and 389 tq WTF...

I have Eurocharged 1.5lb pulley and K&N drop in filters.
No Tune yet. the DYNO tech said that he saw a few air mass codes in the history because he had to clear a check engine light on the DYNO. he says that the car is taking in more boost and air, so it's running rich and I need to get a tune asap. he also says that this car is not an easy car to dyno. help anyone?

 

I wonder if the maf issue is associated with the k&n oil. If it was mine, I'd clean each maf hotwire with electrical contact cleaner and install paper filters.

 

Have had my car on the dyno twice. Once bone stock, once with full exhaust work. on Thursday again this week after pulley and tune complete. Full report after we are done.
It is difficult for the operator....
they did....
1. loosen and move coolant reservoir out of the way to gain access to a coil pack.
2. dynamic mode
3. sport mode.
4. Run the dyno in 4th gear.
5. to stay in 4th and prevent the car from downshifting.... (electronic gas pedal) shift up with paddles, to 4th. allow rpms to drop to 2500 or so. take pedal down to just above the kickdown to start the run, (if you go to the floor the trans will downshift) at 4200 or so take pedal to the floor.. my operator said he did not think the difference between the kick-down stop and to the floor made a difference in the pull.

you can expect to loose 14 to 16% in the drive train.

I just had my car tuned. yes - BIG difference. It runs rich without. Much quieter with the tune, smooth now. It sounds like a tuned motor as compared to before the tune.

 

Get a tune and you will feel a BIG difference that will show in the dyno numbers. Never had an issue with K&N, but cleaning your MAS can't hurt if you had a CEL as too much oil will cause that, they do make a MAS specific spay cleaner.

 

Hey Big Will what was your Dyno numbers with those mods that u have done.

 

Panels is correct for the dyno procedure. Also make sure traction control is completely off.

I am curious what dyno you are using? I have the Eurocharged pulley and Jailbreak Tune and on a Dynojet dyno I was at approx. 455 hp stock and 498 after, although I am going to get it redone because the run before heatsoak set in spun the tires on the dyno. So I know it will show better if cool.

You can tell how hot the engine is by the AFR. When it is cool, AFR is much more optimal. When hot it starts dumping fuel and retarding timing to stop detonation. I'm planning on getting there early and icing down the engine to get a "glory run" to see what it can really do.

I'm convinced that water/meth is the way to get consistent power from an XFR. I will be doing it sometime in the next 6 mos. or so. Getting a cool intake charge and the octane boost (especially with the crap gas we have in CA) will allow the ECU to fully advance timing and lean the mixture without fear of detonation. I don't want to retune it for more power as it might go boom if the solution tank ever runs dry.

Do a search for my post about Jailbreak Tuning for more info. There are dyno charts and power listings that will give you an idea how much more power was made and where. It's really noticeable how the car behaves after the tune, less so with the pulley. The biggest challenge is getting the power to the ground.

 

the dyno used was a Dynocom mobile dyno, it was used outside. I just used some CRC Maf cleaner on both sensors, they definitely had a little residue on them from the K&N filters, feels a little better; next step is the tune. what do u guys think about the Eurocharged tune?

 

There is another member that won the Eurocharged tune and pulley contest recently and I trust his opinion. He was going to do a thorough before and after, but I haven't been able to reach him lately.

I almost went with Eurocharged tune but some of the info. on the forum at that time caused me to question it. So I decided to get a full custom tune made from Jailbreak. Bigg Will followed my lead.

Most of what gave me concern about Eurocharged came out of a Virginia satellite shop that has since closed. I know many others have been happy with them.

 

Never Dynoed mine only used this 1/4mi Trap to HP calculator, results are before I pullied the SC - Horsepower Calculator, calculate hp from et, trap speed, calculate tire diameter, mph and rear end ratio.

4500lbs = Car, Me, 3/4 tank Gas.
117 mph Trap

= 489RWhp or 531Chp.

And as Kyanite say's the problem is traction, in putting the power to the ground.

 

I'm getting the XFR flash tuned this Saturday arvo with the XKR-S tune (identical to the XFR-S tune).
The tuner wants some figures on the real-life result, so I've just done a pre-tune dyno and I'm booked in for a post-tune dyno this Tuesday.
I was pleasantly surprised by the dyno result, 344.7 kw and 676 nm atw.
344.7 kw converts to 468.66 metric HP.
Allowing for 16% drivetrain loss that converts to 410 kw or 557 HP at the flywheel.
Which is already quite a bit more than the factory quoted stock figure of 375 kw or 510 HP.
So either the dyno is a bit optimistic, or the drivetrain is very efficient and the loss is much less than 16%, or the factory figures are understated, or my minor mods of K&N filters and straight through rear mufflers really work, or I have a particularly healthy motor. Or any combination of these.
There are many reports that early XFRs put out a fair bit more than the quoted factory figure, so I'm guessing I have one of these healthy early ones.

Here's the dyno chart:

 

OZ, with my dyno results I'm only seeing about 10% driveline loss. Unless my algebra is too rusty (it's been a long while since I've really used it) I made 460 hp on the initial dyno. So the difference from stock crank hp is 50, divided by 510 gives me 10%. That correction factor would put you much closer to what stock crankshaft would be.

And this is exactly why we can't have dyno races. Have to go and see what happens on the track! And even then, the only number that matters is trap speed and whether you can walk away from someone on the top end.

 

I put in some rough numbers in the calculator and it gave me a pretty good estimate but...if I'm supposed to have 554 hp at flywheel and 511 at the wheel, how are they saying it's a 20% drivetrain loss? Looks more like less than 10% to me. Any thoughts?

 

Something is not quite right there... usually with a Dyno Dynamics dyno the figures are given as rear wheel HP/kW, and a calculated flywheel torque, in this case in Nm. Someone explained to me once why the HP is at the wheels, but the torque is at the flywheel, but I can't remember the exact reasons, it's a little confusing...

The stock XFR is rated 375kW & 625Nm at the flywheel.

The dyno chart clearly states "flywheel torque" so that's not at the wheels. And in any case 676Nm at the flywheel is well over the rated factory output of the 510PS factory tune. Seems a little unlikely...

Will be interesting to see the results after the tune. You can't take the numbers from a dyno as gospel, but it is still useful to gauge the difference, so long as the dyno settings are the same between runs.

The factory flywheel ratings are:

510PS, 375kW, 625Nm
550PS, 405kW, 680Nm

So even if that dyno is an optimistic one (as it appears to be) the difference after the tune should be apparent on the next run, assuming same conditions.

So many things can affect the power at the wheels, even the tyres & wheel size... we saw a big difference with one car that ran 18" wheels and old tyres, then dyno'd again with 20" wheels and new tyres, there was close to 100hp difference recorded, even though the engine was untouched...

 

Curious how you got a hold of the XKR-S tune and the method of flashing it

 

Yep, my bad, the torque graph is calculated flywheel torque via the OBD port.
Which in my experience is always overstated by a fair bit.
I'll be happy if the post-tune run shows an 8% or greater increase in power, as that is what the tune should produce (375 kw to 405 kw = 30 more, 30 is exactly 8% of 375).

 

Yep, 10% loss may be closer to the mark. 468.66 HP after 10% loss = 520.73 HP at the flywheel which is only 10.73 more than the quoted stock figure.
If 10% is fairly accurate that's a very good drivetrain loss figure and shows how good the ZF box is.

 

I was very happy with 10% from a slush box.

 

Tune all done, went without a hitch.
Confirmed that the ECU was stock as a rock and had never been tuned before.
So no "special factory tune".
I paid a little extra and had an extra little tweak done which in theory takes it to a bit more than XFR-S spec.
The test drive didn't show a lot just yet as the system now has to relearn my driving style.
No detectable increase in low to mid range power, but a noticeable increase at the top end, from 5,000 RPM to the 7,000 RPM red line.
The dyno run on Tuesday should show what I have gained.
I got some extra non-performance tweaks thrown in:
- speed limiter increased from 250 km/h to 300 km/h
- pedestrian safety system disabled (it is problematic and has been known to trigger for no reason)
- speedo over-read corrected.

 

Have fun with your Jag
As for a pedestrian protection - yeah, i recommend to everyone to switch it off, since it may deploy a hood for a "no reason" (like hitting a pot hole) and it gets a lot of $$ to repair it. No system, no troubles

 

Surprised that you aren't noticing much in the midrange. Mine really comes alive at about 3K-3.5K and pulls hard all the way up. Some of that is my pulley but even before I put that on it was still very noticeable. Looking forward to seeing your dyno curves to see how power is distributed. And I'm guessing that you bumped red line an extra 500 rpm (I think it's 6500 stock) to go to 7000?