Does anyone have a good, clear diagram showing the right jacking points for the Jag XF? Just looking to ensure that when I jack up the corners to change a wheel, that my floor-jack and the jack stands are on the right areas of the frame. Thanks!

 

Your going to need some sort of pinch weld adapter puck for that floor jack, then you can use the factory chassis jackingpoints.

 

Here you go

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1167945

 

You don't actually, the pinch weld is robust enough.

The sheet metal above the pinch weld which the adapter puck would bear on might not actually be strong enough as the pinch weld is reinforced to take those loads but the sill may not be.

I routinely use the floor jack pad directly on the pinch weld points without any problem.

 

I can confirm the pinch weld is strong enough, I was forced to use it with floor jack and despite me being petrified it would crush, it help up perfect.

 

I must disagree.
I used an ordinary floor jack on my old XF-S, and I bent two of the four jacking point pinch welds quite badly. I dreaded getting a flat tyre in the middle of nowhere on one of those two wheels, as no way would the stock scissor jack fit around the bent pinch weld any more.
Instead, I bought a pair of jacking "pucks" (Bigg Will called them adapter pucks) which I use every time now, and not a problem since.
Takes a little extra time lining up the puck slot with the pinch weld and then the puck with the jack, but well worth it IMHO.

 

Not my model car but the pinch weld things is common to many cars. They probably put that slot in the standard jack for a reason. Concentrating load force on a tiny contact area is usually not a good thing if you are looking for low/no damage use. You may get away with it many times, right up to point where you dont.

 

Just look at where and how the stock Jack seats that is where it's most secure to Jack from. NO CAR SHOULD EVER BE JACKED SEATED ON A PINCH WELD!..LOL Please see quote below in RED!

 

Yep, I jacked up the car probably six or seven times on the pinch weld with no puck and no bending before on the seventh or eighth time it suddenly bent. Lesson learned the hard way.

 

Well I have to call BS on this as the cause.

If you examine the jacking points the pinch weld is about 1.75 in deep on the outside and more than 2 in deep on the inside. The groove in the top of the factory jack is less than one inch deep. There is no way for the factory jack to engage the jacking points anywhere other than on the lower edge of the pinch weld. No way physically can the factory jack lift on the sill nor should that be allowed to happen.

The factory jack is designed to lift only on the pinch weld. Putting a puck or other spacer on the lifting face of a floor jack is only going to shift the lifting load to points not intended for that load by Jaguar, or do nothing.

Furthermore, the front jacking points are reinforced with an L shaped web attached to the inside and forward end of the reinforced pinch weld. There is equally no way physically for any jacking force on the pinch weld of those front jacking points to "fold the pinch weld over ". No way that can physically occur as the L web would have to be crushed at the same time and how is that going to happen?

I say again, it is obvious from the design of the jacking point and the factory jack that all of the lifting load is designed to be accepted by the reinforced edge of the pinch weld.

 

Sorry, no BS, this is what happened to me,
I suspect that although as you say the load is still carried on/by the pinch weld when using the factory scissor jack, the way the load is distributed is significantly different when using a floor jack with a flat mating surface and no "side support".

 

↑↑↑ WTF?, Here's the jacking point page from the owners manual for my Jag, as I said a properly designed pinch weld floor jack adapter lifts the car in the same manner as the factory jack in depicted in the owners manual, and that is in my cars trunk, that being BY THE BODY, or as Jag says "car FLOOR" jacking points and NOT the sill panel (Pinch weld). Pinch welds will fold, So Jagular please keep jacking your car up by the pinch welds, LMASSOFF!

 

Well, the slot in the jack is much wider than the thickness of the pinch weld so while you may think so that also is not physically possible.

I wasn't going to bother lying on the floor to check but it seems likely that a stout piece of steel has been incorporated into the pinch weld at each jacking location.

I say again, all the lifting load is accepted by the bottom edge of the pinch weld at the reinforced locations marked on the plastic sills. It is physically impossible for the factory jack to affect this. Therefore, it is unnecessary and probably undesirable to use any form of puck or pad with a slot in it when using a floor jack. In order for the puck to accept any lifting force except at the bottom of the slot that slot would have to be in the order of 1.75 inches deep. A hockey puck is how thick again?

 

That factory jack head is designed merely to assist the user in correctly locating the jack centred under the lifting point. No side loads are carried by that head and it would be an exceptionally dangerous design if it were to be designed that way. The factory jack is only capable of lifting the car safely if the ground pad is directly under the lifting point. The reference in the manual to "sill panel" is the British term and refers to the plastic rocker panel. The factory jack never gets anywhere near the car floor. There is a reference in the manual to the sill and a specific warning not to risk damage to the sill. Were you to remove the plastic sill cover you would see how easily the sill itself could be damaged by application of any lifting force. It us a tubular or box section (usually a rounded box section nowadays) and made from relatively thin walled steel. On the newer Jags to be released soon these will be aluminum extrusions.

If the floor jack pad you are using has a slot in it only as deep as that on the factory jack it is merely padding the paint on the pinch weld with rubber. All the lifting load is being carried by the bottom of the slot. Of course, lifting directly on the bottom edge of the pinch weld at the reinforced locations also cannot damage the paint on that pinch weld.

If I were you I'd be concerned about the lifting forces splitting that rubber lift pad in two dropping the car by the distance remaining uncut in that pad.

 

I took some pics of the puck adapter I made at work out of some scrap aluminum stock. Fits right in the floor jack saddle, and the cars jacking points nice and secure. It also clears the pinch weld flange to jack on the body's jacking points as Jag directs. You can buy the adapters on EBay cheap.

 

How do you mean "clears the pinch weld flange" ?

The slot in your puck isn't deep enough.

If it were what body part could it lift on?

 

jagular, why would I waste time explaining this object that you DON'T/WON'T use, to you? if you need more info SMDH

 

I don't know. Why "waste any time" trying to convince anyone you must use a jack pad unless you are sure it may help somebody avoid damaging their car or doing something unsafe?

I have used such jack pads on other cars I have owned where the head of the jack engages with a reinforced part of the sill and the pinch weld was not designed to accept the loads. My preferred pad is a simple block of wood with a deep enough saw cut in it to achieve this. Wood makes a good jack pad because compressive strength of even softwood is quite high and failure mode is very progressive and generally audible long before it is catastrophic. I recommend wood to fabricate your own jack stands if you can't afford manufactured ones.

However, come time to do the same for my Jaguar I noted that the factory jack was not designed to bear on any part of the jacking point except the bottom edge of the pinch weld. Initially I thought it was, as it was for my other cars previously. However, trying the factory jack out reveals that it lifts only on the bottom edge of the pinch weld. The flanged head is there solely to ensure the jack is aligned correctly with the jack point.

I concluded that Jaguar did not intend you to lift the car at those points with anything but the pinch weld taking the load. The owners manual actually warns you not to damage the sill or sill panel which you may do if you use a pad or device to transfer any loads from the bottom of the pinch weld to any other part of the bodywork. By "car body" Jaguar clearly means the pinch weld and avoid damaging the plastic sill panel. They also mean don't use the sill itself.

There are four other side jack points that are designed to lift the car on the flat pads of a floor jack or hoist if anyone feels the pinch welds may collapse. Two are further inboard but in line with the front sill jack points. The rear two are right in front of each rear wheel. I generally avoid trying to use those partly because it can be hard to ensure you know exactly where to place the jack pad and partly because the front ones are a fair distance inboard.

My floor jack is an aluminum 2 ton with a rubber pad integrated into the lift plate which bears on the pinch weld quite well.

My sole object in posting any information is to inform from what I know from my own observation or practice or what I believe to be reliable information from other sources. My information about the lift points comes from a diagram from a Jaguar workshop manual posted online elsewhere. I have not tried to use those points myself.

 

Wow, I kind of expect this sort of banter on a Japan tuner site, not here.

With that said, I think you all are missing one important thing.

Everybody can agree that the pinch weld is where the factory jack is used to fix a flat. It is strong enough to take the load of the car. When fixing a flat, you only raise the car until the tire is just barely off the ground.

But if that load is not straight up, then the side load can cause the pinch weld to bend sideways. So the factory jack helps Aline the load and helps keep the seam from collapsing sideways. The higher you go, by lifting only one corner will cause the load to shift from verticle to more of a diagonal load causing side pressure on the seam.

When you use a good floor jack to raise a corner, once you get the tire off the ground, the process of going higher will cause the cars weight to start putting a side load on the pinch weld. This can cause it to bend sideways. So a slotted puck will help keep the seam from bending because it spreads the load from the exact contact point to the sides as well.

I happen to use two floor jacks to raise the whole front up at one time to keep from putting side loads on the seams. Takes a little bit longer but reduces unnessissary twisting of the chassis as I lift the car high enough to get jack stands under the frame rails.

 

EXACTLY! XF Premium, which EVERYONE except jagular seems to understand, and since I have little patience for explaining things to those who seem committed to MIS-understanding me with added BLA BLA BLA debate on why his way is right, and everyone else is wrong? I decided to leave jagular is on his own...LOL