I would try disconnecting the battery, and then doing the parking brake reset.

 

 

I just saw you reset it, I didn't know if it was a reset at the faults request, or due to your doing a battery disconnect.
Well the manual says there are 2 micro switches 1 for apply and 1 for release, and a hall effect sensor "inside the actuator" to ensure a full release of the brakes. The good thing is the Jag can tell you if and, which switch or sensor is bad, but you need a higher level (Dealer level) scanner to see that info. You could try an independent brake specialist. The higher lever scanner I use just came out with their XF parking brake diagnostic program for $50, guess I'll be getting it.

 

 

 

 

It's probably the same as the car yours is based on (S-Type) and is detailed in the chassis codes pdf. I'm doubtful they'd provide yet more info.

edit: I see it's also in the XF workshop manual (looks very much like the S-Type).

 

 

JTIS is on here / JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Hilton Camons

(I just used google...)

 

 

 

 

Congrats! Those are the hardest types of failures to find. I am sure a dealer would have taken forever and have changed out just about everything in the car before finding it.

 

 

Hi Colin
I have exactly the same EPG fault with a 2016 XE. When you said you bypassed the cable from the module to the actuator, did you mean the the Parking Brake Module? If so, where is this located on the car. Also, I assume the term actuator refers to the switch on the centre console.
Many thanks.

 

Hi,

I used the vehicle worshop manual to to identify the cable from the control unit (which is located in the boot area behind the right hand side (OS) trim panel above the battery (this could be different for the XE!) which supplies current to the parking brake actuator when it is operated (this is the parking brake device located under the car which operates the parking brake cables to apply the brakes.). On mine I found the electrical cable between these two points was broken somewhere above the rear axle. Having identified the cable I connected an ohmmeter to both ends and found it was open circuit. I then traced from each end until I identified the break was above the axle where I couldn’t reach. So I just cut the cable each side of the axle where I knew it was each side of the break and then joined the new piece of wire over the axle between the two ends, If I could have seen what I was doing up there I might have found the break and repaired it, but the only way to do that would be to drop the axle. So instead I joined in the new piece to bridge the gap.where the ends were accessible. Good luck! 😊🤣

 

Hi, Thanks for your detailed explanation. So the term actuator referred to the small motor that moves the pads into the disc, not the switch. This is really good information. The car is going into my local garage (not a main dealer) so I'll give them this info. They have already had one go at identifying the fault which looked like the switch, because when I put the transmission into PARK, the park brake was applied. This problem started out as an intermittent fault. It came on every couple of weeks or so, then gradually became more frequent untill now it comes as soon as the car is started. So I'm thinking it is more likely corrosion or dirt in the connectors rather than a complete break in the cable. Thanks again for your help, and fingers we are now zooming in on the problem.

 

Yes, that sounds like a different fault to the one I had, but could be caused by a high resistance in the wiring somewhere. I think the diagnostic process required would be to check the continuity of all cables from the ECU to their other ends, expecting to find some high resistance somewhere. That could take a while! These are definitely the worst kind of faults to diagnose! I was pulling my hair out when trying to find the fault on mine. In the end I realised that a structured approach was required. All the symptoms pointed to an open circuit somewhere, I just had no choice but to start testing all cables for continuity, luckily I didn’t have to check too many before I found the culprit! Good luck! 😊👍

 

Hi All,
Just to say thanks for all that responded with suggestions on how to fix my EPG fault. And I'm pleased to report it is finally fixed. After a replacement of the EPG switch by my usual garage, it got sent to a non-main dealer Jaguar specialist who determined it was an open ciruit wire somewhere in the EPG system. After buzzing out the appropriate connections they repalced the broken one and all is now fine.
Regards
Graham