Has anyone done a PCV valve replacement on a supercharged 5.0 and can you do it without removing the supercharger?

i’m throwing the standard lean bank 1 and lean bank 2 error codes and I believe I’ve narrowed it down to this is the problem. if I do have to remove the supercharger I’m planning on doing the isolator at the same time.
any other recommend services I should do if I have to remove the supercharger.


2011 XFR

 

I recently completely a ton of overdue maintenance, none of which can be done with the supercharger in place:
-fresh supercharger oil
-new solid supercharger coupler
-flushed and cleaned out the intercoolers
-intake valve cleaning
-new knock sensors
-new MAP sensor
-new rear coolant crossover pipe
-new front coolant Y pipe
-new gaskets all around
-symposer delete (not really maintenance)

 

what did all the parts cost you and how much time you think it took?

also what made you do the solid vs spring loaded coupler

 

-fresh supercharger oil = $29
-new solid supercharger coupler = $20
-flushed and cleaned out the intercoolers = a few cans of brake cleaner
-intake valve cleaning = brake cleaner, a toothbrush, paper towels, and time
-new knock sensors = $51 for all four
-new MAP sensor = $30
-new rear coolant crossover pipe = $102
-new front coolant Y pipe = $53
-new gaskets all around = $10 each for the intake manifold gaskets, $100 for the manifold lid gasket
-symposer delete (not really maintenance) = vacuum caps and some JB Weld

It took about 2 weeks working a little bit each day. That time also included waiting for certain parts and replacing the spark plugs, which are doable without removing the supercharger.
I went with the solid coupler because that seems to be the best choice. No more clunk at shutdown.

 

I changed the supercharged oil with the supercharger still in place

 

Hey XJ8JR can you go into the details of the symposer delete?
It's a weird system but I understand it's very common to pipe in or generate engine noises in modern cars.

After my stage II tune I now have a much different set of noises than before and I am thinking it's because the intake frequency has been changed by the tune and the passive symposer is set up for stock air flow only.
I did not know a few vacuum plugs and it's removed either!
Just would like to try it unhooked for comparison.
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In my opinion, the symposer is too difficult to access without removing the supercharger manifold lid and quite probably the supercharger and manifolds. There might be a way, but I seriously doubt it. If I recall correctly, there's a single electrical connection which you can leave unplugged and it won't throw any codes or anything. There's a vacuum hose going into the passenger side manifold which I capped with a 1" vacuum cap (and then JB Welded in place). Then there's the symposer's connection to the brake vacuum line, which I disconnected and JB Welded over the resulting hole. Finally, there's the hose going into the firewall, which takes another 1" cap.

 

PCV valves can be replaced without removing S/C. I've used a pick to break off old valve clips. After that, you can clip in new one. Watch out for the spring coming out and the plastic tabs broken off. Remove them first. Use a screwdriver to slighty put pressure on new PCV to clip in tabs.

 

Where did you get the new parts?

 

I got them through the dealer. I think one if its S/C, and you get two for non S/C. There is a repair kit vs complete valve cover.

 

Thanks. I looked at some of your other posts and it looks like you're associated with the trade in some way so I appreciate your help with these issues. I did a quick search and it looks like the parts are available from Land Rover as a repair part and would definitely make changing out the valves a lot easier.

 

Parts can be found on Amazon and Ebay much cheaper than the dealer. I did mine this morning, I found it easier to do with the engine running, that way the springs are easier to control as the diaphrams are sucked into position and held there while fitting the caps.

 

That is a great tip! Hold the diaphragm in place, fire the engine up and it will hold it while you put the cap on.

 

Boy another great tip from this forum!
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