Problems with the 5.0?
So I took my S-Type to the dealer for some service and received a new XF 3.0 AWD as a loaner. I'll have more to say about my experiences after I've driven it a bit further, but suffice it to say that I was surprised when the steering wheel got hot...
But, in discussing all things Jaguar I was very surprised when the order-writer, who seemed VERY knowledgeable about repairing these cars, was very critical of the 5.0 engine. This shocked me since the 4.2 has been bullet-proof and I just assumed that it was so with the 5.0. Apparently not.
He wouldn't go into a lot of detail but indicated that cam chains and the tensioners were a major problem (almost seemed like the ones from the old 4.0) and that failures were common and expensive to repair.
He also said that water pump failures are very common and the engines were, basically, destroyed when they over heated.
As I said this surprised me very much but it is hard to refute someone who makes his living on servicing these cars.
Does this seem to be over the top and if so you have to wonder why someone so experienced would be so negative.
As I said, this took me completely by surprise...
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
'08 Jaguar S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition"
But, in discussing all things Jaguar I was very surprised when the order-writer, who seemed VERY knowledgeable about repairing these cars, was very critical of the 5.0 engine. This shocked me since the 4.2 has been bullet-proof and I just assumed that it was so with the 5.0. Apparently not.
He wouldn't go into a lot of detail but indicated that cam chains and the tensioners were a major problem (almost seemed like the ones from the old 4.0) and that failures were common and expensive to repair.
He also said that water pump failures are very common and the engines were, basically, destroyed when they over heated.
As I said this surprised me very much but it is hard to refute someone who makes his living on servicing these cars.
Does this seem to be over the top and if so you have to wonder why someone so experienced would be so negative.
As I said, this took me completely by surprise...
================================================
Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
'08 Jaguar S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition"
I can't comment about all 5.0s but my 2010 has 70k miles on it and runs great.
It is on its third water pump, first one was replaced before I got it (at 25k miles) and second one at 65k miles), both under warranty but that it is mechanicly.
Battery gets replaced every year, like clockwork, just after each winter, the engine starts cranking very slowly and get all sorts of strange warning indicators, but that is not a 5.0 issue.
It is on its third water pump, first one was replaced before I got it (at 25k miles) and second one at 65k miles), both under warranty but that it is mechanicly.
Battery gets replaced every year, like clockwork, just after each winter, the engine starts cranking very slowly and get all sorts of strange warning indicators, but that is not a 5.0 issue.
Sounds like you REALLY need to get a battery tender. I just replaced the original battery and they aren't cheap!
I have one, even gave it to the dealer the last time to make sure all was correct. I drive the car daily M-F 40 miles round trip and it is our primary car on the weekends. It gets stored in a heated garage from Dec to March due to the weather and it is on the tender during that time or if I have to go out of town on a business trip more than a couple days.
I bought my car in Aug 12 and the last 3 springs it has needed a new battery (dealer installed). And yes, all recalls/re flash TSBs have been done.
These cars are very hard on batteries (at least in the Midwest USA).
I bought my car in Aug 12 and the last 3 springs it has needed a new battery (dealer installed). And yes, all recalls/re flash TSBs have been done.
These cars are very hard on batteries (at least in the Midwest USA).
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Can anyone comment on the failure mode of the water pump, what kind of warning(s) does the car show? I have the 4.2 but it is already on it's 2nd waterpump, courtesy of the previous owner and as they say forewarned is forearmed....
If you start smelling hot anti-freeze, take it to the shop ASAP. There is also some hard plastic coolant pipes that like to crack, if not before they start working on it, just after they start taking everything apart.
If you smell that sweet coolant smell, get it fixed BEFORE it over heats.
99% of the time water pumps and plastic pipe parts do not fail all at once. They start dripping and seeping onto hot engine surfaces and the best time to "smell" it is just after you shut it off. The pressure raises as the coolant stops circulating and the engine "heat soaks" the coolant still in the block causing it to drastically increase the pressure and it will find those failing shaft seals on the pump and weak hoses/pipes.
If you smell hot coolant, get it fixed. If you keep pushing your luck, it will fail and the damage will be 1000% worse and costs will be 10 times more to repair.
You should never smell coolant, it is a closed system.
If you smell that sweet coolant smell, get it fixed BEFORE it over heats.
99% of the time water pumps and plastic pipe parts do not fail all at once. They start dripping and seeping onto hot engine surfaces and the best time to "smell" it is just after you shut it off. The pressure raises as the coolant stops circulating and the engine "heat soaks" the coolant still in the block causing it to drastically increase the pressure and it will find those failing shaft seals on the pump and weak hoses/pipes.
If you smell hot coolant, get it fixed. If you keep pushing your luck, it will fail and the damage will be 1000% worse and costs will be 10 times more to repair.
You should never smell coolant, it is a closed system.
If you start smelling hot anti-freeze, take it to the shop ASAP. There is also some hard plastic coolant pipes that like to crack, if not before they start working on it, just after they start taking everything apart.
If you smell that sweet coolant smell, get it fixed BEFORE it over heats.
99% of the time water pumps and plastic pipe parts do not fail all at once. They start dripping and seeping onto hot engine surfaces and the best time to "smell" it is just after you shut it off. The pressure raises as the coolant stops circulating and the engine "heat soaks" the coolant still in the block causing it to drastically increase the pressure and it will find those failing shaft seals on the pump and weak hoses/pipes.
If you smell hot coolant, get it fixed. If you keep pushing your luck, it will fail and the damage will be 1000% worse and costs will be 10 times more to repair.
You should never smell coolant, it is a closed system.
If you smell that sweet coolant smell, get it fixed BEFORE it over heats.
99% of the time water pumps and plastic pipe parts do not fail all at once. They start dripping and seeping onto hot engine surfaces and the best time to "smell" it is just after you shut it off. The pressure raises as the coolant stops circulating and the engine "heat soaks" the coolant still in the block causing it to drastically increase the pressure and it will find those failing shaft seals on the pump and weak hoses/pipes.
If you smell hot coolant, get it fixed. If you keep pushing your luck, it will fail and the damage will be 1000% worse and costs will be 10 times more to repair.
You should never smell coolant, it is a closed system.
Hopefully the aftermarket or collective forum wisdom will come up with a better solution than replacing water pumps ever 25,000 miles.
Mine was discovered during it's annual maintenance inspection. Just some droplets were seen. Someone posted that every manufacturer seems to suffer this. BMW went through this also. I don't know why they don't fix the problem, other than whoever the supplier is has a stockpile of this junk and foots the bill. likely under contract a long term supplier contract. Maybe someone in the auto industry can enlighten us on this repetitive nonsense.
Well he is wrong about the tensioners and chains.
Brutal really needs to comment on this but I have not heard him say anything about the tensioners.
Read the forum there are no reports I can find at all where a 5.0L had the tensioners replaced.
The water pump is a known weak spot but at around $50 for the part I don't see it as anything major. Plus it's a pretty simple and easy repair which for a Jaguar is saying a lot! As was posted above the biggest danger is letting the engine over heat because of the failure.
I have been looking to see if the DCCV is still a problem but so far it's not. I am not even sure the 5.0L has a DCCV but I think it does.
Very unusual for your 4.2L to need a water pump even after 100K+ miles?
I am at 112K miles on my 4.2L SC with the original pump.
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Brutal really needs to comment on this but I have not heard him say anything about the tensioners.
Read the forum there are no reports I can find at all where a 5.0L had the tensioners replaced.
The water pump is a known weak spot but at around $50 for the part I don't see it as anything major. Plus it's a pretty simple and easy repair which for a Jaguar is saying a lot! As was posted above the biggest danger is letting the engine over heat because of the failure.
I have been looking to see if the DCCV is still a problem but so far it's not. I am not even sure the 5.0L has a DCCV but I think it does.
Very unusual for your 4.2L to need a water pump even after 100K+ miles?
I am at 112K miles on my 4.2L SC with the original pump.
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I suppose when the warranty is up I will carry a spare water pump, extra coolant and necessary tools in the trunk. I already have a 12v vacuum, torque wrench, scissor jack and spare tire in there. Just enough room left for a 4" thick briefcase and a sweater in case a passenger gets a chill. Such is the price of arriving in style.
The supercharger torsion isolator is an issue, I had mine replaced at 48k miles
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...olator-137560/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...olator-137560/
It's all true. After 50K, you can count on replacing the water pump....after 100k, the timing chain tensioners need to be replaced.
Drove my XFR hard for 5 years, 4 seasons in all weather... Had both of these problems....and a few more...
It is what it is, but it's still the best car I've ever owned.
Drove my XFR hard for 5 years, 4 seasons in all weather... Had both of these problems....and a few more...
It is what it is, but it's still the best car I've ever owned.
It's all true. After 50K, you can count on replacing the water pump....after 100k, the timing chain tensioners need to be replaced.
Drove my XFR hard for 5 years, 4 seasons in all weather... Had both of these problems....and a few more...
It is what it is, but it's still the best car I've ever owned.
Drove my XFR hard for 5 years, 4 seasons in all weather... Had both of these problems....and a few more...
It is what it is, but it's still the best car I've ever owned.
I can't comment about all 5.0s but my 2010 has 70k miles on it and runs great.
It is on its third water pump, first one was replaced before I got it (at 25k miles) and second one at 65k miles), both under warranty but that it is mechanicly.
Battery gets replaced every year, like clockwork, just after each winter, the engine starts cranking very slowly and get all sorts of strange warning indicators, but that is not a 5.0 issue.
It is on its third water pump, first one was replaced before I got it (at 25k miles) and second one at 65k miles), both under warranty but that it is mechanicly.
Battery gets replaced every year, like clockwork, just after each winter, the engine starts cranking very slowly and get all sorts of strange warning indicators, but that is not a 5.0 issue.
Check your brakes. You are doing really well if you get 35K out of a set.
From what I have been told and now am seeing with my car is you will need to replace the rotors on the third set of pads.
My car had new pads on all 4 corners when I bought it as a CPO at 35k. The dealer installed them using the same rotors as they were still thick enough.
Now at 70k, my pads are so thin that the brake fluid level was so low that the light came on going around a cloverleaf on ramp. Sure enough, no leaks just very thin pads.
So before the sensor for front pads go off, I am replacing the pads and rotors. If you wait until the sensor lights up for front pads, you have to replace the sensors as well.
I will be flushing the fluid as well just to be safe that no air got into the lines.
From what I have been told and now am seeing with my car is you will need to replace the rotors on the third set of pads.
My car had new pads on all 4 corners when I bought it as a CPO at 35k. The dealer installed them using the same rotors as they were still thick enough.
Now at 70k, my pads are so thin that the brake fluid level was so low that the light came on going around a cloverleaf on ramp. Sure enough, no leaks just very thin pads.
So before the sensor for front pads go off, I am replacing the pads and rotors. If you wait until the sensor lights up for front pads, you have to replace the sensors as well.
I will be flushing the fluid as well just to be safe that no air got into the lines.
Worn rotors will also cause the low brake fluid of course. The rotors won't actually last through two sets of pads. If the rotors are more than half worn on one set then they'll be below spec before the second set of pads is worn out.
Jaguar engines have long life Iridium spark plugs. The specified change interval is 100,000 miles.
Jaguar engines have long life Iridium spark plugs. The specified change interval is 100,000 miles.
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