So are they or are they not interchangeable? I decided to stick with OEM coupler and ordered one last night.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11417685599...m=114176855998

I have a vacuum operated (2011) bypass.

 

Fascinating, I wasn't aware there were different couplers. The difference appears to take into account a different distance between the hubs on the end of the shaft and rotors, so I'm guessing the body of a electric-bypass supercharger is different to the vacuum and the hub on the rotor sits further back, requiring a thicker coupler?

 

Perhaps - I spoke with someone at SCOL today and they also told me there are two sizes. The larger being about 1.00" thick. However, just measured the one that came off my car (5.0 electric bypass) and i have the smaller one, which conflicts with the image above. The plot thickens!

 

It looks like the link that you gave is exactly what you need. It is difficult to understand from the photo, but judging by the turns of the puff, this is it. (vacuum operated bypass)

 

This is exactly what it is. Moreover, if you look at the end of the mainspring in the body, it is now in metal. This is a new type of couplings. I assume the manufacturer has reduced the risk of breakage.

 

The picture above is just a presentation of my words.

It is possible that there are two types of 5.0 couplings with an electric bypass. I do not presume to say for sure, but I suppose that it is not so. I do not know exactly.

In any case, you need to order the clutch according to the dimensions of the original one removed from your blower.

 

is the difference really vac or electric or something else (like age)? See above, my '15 electric looks exactly like what you've copied above Vic.

Edited, just saw your response! I ordred a .68" from SCOL, to match the one that came off my car.

Pulling my charger and snout off again, WOOT!

 

you will be amazed at the shortcuts and timesavers you will find the second time around

 

Confirming that my new coupler is the same as the old. Vacuum operated bypass, and is the unit on the right in the photo above. There is one notable design change as indicated above. The second spring is retained with metal, and has a small amount of lubricant from the factory.

 

I had a solid coupler put on my '10 XKR just under 4 years ago and haven't noticed any issues.

 

davetibbs if you read this I find the snout I purchased has NSK bearings. The only bearing number I can read is 6203DG28B. This is a expensive bearing as it's $40 on EBay. From NSK it's also a high temperature bearing with a 350 C (660 F!!). temperature rating.
SKF-->NSK Bearing Info

Here is the parts box label;


Hard to believe it was made in the US but that's what's on the label?

Here is the coupler and it is the updated one with the steel re-enforcement for the end of the spring. Anybody know what the thin white plastic shield looking part is for?




Here is the backside of the coupler. What's a bit off is this is for the electric bypass which my 2014 XJR has but the coupler looks like the smaller one posted up thread for the vacuum actuator version? Same thing as DeviLSh noticed? I don't have the two different couplers side by side so I can't make a direct comparison.




Looks legit to me? Any warning signs to indicate it might be counterfeit?
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On initial inspection, I'd say you lucked out, but can you get a picture of the bottom of the snout? There should be numbers in the casting.

 

I'm not really sure if they are really made in the USA i found a source from China that sources the USA.
It's very cheap has the reinforced part i installed this one.

The bag of spanners noise went away but, this one has a ticking noise, i heard that it's normal, don't know if the metal reinforced part will cause the ticking, it's louder on cold start.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPs5K3U

 

I will say this about the green zzperformance coupler. The thing is made to exacting specs and does take a bit of tapping to seat and it must be aligned perfect. Very well made. I just did not like the increased noise. If not such a biatch to replace i might put it on again and give it time on my rebuilt charger. It only ran on the original. Someday i may look into their modular charger pulley setup. Very nice and no need for machining from what i read

 

Ordered item number EAT-360145 from Superchargersonline.com. It is the "smaller" of the two available according to them, and matched identically to what was on my 2015 electronic actuated car. Also worth noting, my stock unit had minor wear/play compared to the new unit, and the stock unit also had the metal retainer that everyone is highlighting.

 

I got my oem spring one from same place. Very nice. If you have the belt off you should be able to just rotate the charger the same as the spring tension. A good tight charger takes a small effort to take up the spring cushion before it starts turning. Good luck with your repairs and enjoy the results. You will be happy

 

After having replaced 3 failed pen couplers, I have had my zzp for a year without issues. I do not miss the embarrassing sounds of shutting down my motor, and haven’t picked up any new sounds, even with some hard driving...that’s just been my exp so far.

 

Same. One year, no issues.

 

davetibbs thanks for the help!
Here are the part numbers from the front snout I got off of EBay.





There is also a small paper tag underneath.




Hope it still looks legit??
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JLR label glows in ultraviolet light.