I think it's plastic for positioning the coupling. It also keeps the seating surfaces and prevents the coupling from being positioned incorrectly.

 

One problem with the OEM design is that the spring will wear the shaft.

 

I wonder if that's why the modified the coupler and added a metal reinforcement to the end of the spring capturing it. Trying to keep the end of the spring from contacting the shaft on the snout drive?
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The metal is there to stop the end of the spring breaking through the plastic and therefore losing tension.

End of spring broken through at top. I had two like this.

 

Good to know! Thanks much!
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Any updates on these? I'm about to pull the trigger on one and was leaning towards a ZZP, but now I'm thinking that the new Eaton part might be the way to go??? Thanks!!!

 

This was heavily debated in some other threads last year. Several of us had the ZZP part and I personally did not like the fitment. There's some documentation of bearing damage in the LSA community. I went with the updated factory part and am happy I did. Clearly the engineers moved back to a spring based coupler and I see why you want the dampening of that design with it all apart.

 

I still have my zzp one in and haven’t had any issues.. but I’ve only driven 5000 miles since putting it in. I’ll be taking out my supercharger later this year to have ported. I’ll decide if I want to go back to oem design or not.

 

Hey off topic but I am leaning towards some SC porting myself.
If you do get it done let us know who you had do it and your results. I think we are in the diminishing returns part of trying to get more power.
The tune and lower pulley combo are hard to beat for HP/$!

Doing the snout too?
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supercharger, snout, and looking into having the throttle body bored out. I’m also looking into doing meth injection as well. I can actually refer you to a guy on YouTube who has the ported supercharger. He says he’s making over 600 to the wheels.

Going to send it it to this place for porting

https://stiegemeier.com/services/supercharger-porting/

 

I'd seen that video, etc. and had also considered doing the same things while I have it all apart. Any idea what kind of numbers we'd get from porting the SC and throttle body? Trying to determine if it makes sense for me.

Have you chosen a meth setup yet?

 

To be honest no idea. If he’s making 600 to the wheels, that’s 700 plus crank hp. I’m not sure if he had his car dynod.

 

Just be careful with Stiegemeier. Years ago on the S-Type forum we had a bad situation with an STR.
Stiegeier Blower Porting

Make your own decision but please read that fairly long thread before sending anything to him. Any vendor can have a bad job too.
I won't be using him for my 5.0L SC and snout porting.

I plan (but have not done it yet) to have the blower and snout ported at Jokerz Performance. I have talked to Brett last year and had a verbal price of $1200 for the blower and snout, 15 Day turn around and an estimated 30HP gain. He claims to have done several Jags but he is a GM LS engine guy mainly.
Blower Porting

Don't know what the current pricing and turnaround time is but look at the website as the machining is very nice!

Well with further searching my above information is wrong and out of date. Looks like Brett has gotten into Jaguars a good bit more than when I last talked to him?
Now they show $850 and 50+ HP gains!
BUT he has a "Full Tilt" option for another $400 so it's still really about $1200 more if you want bling as he will power coat the blower any color you want for addition charges.
Jaguar TVS1900 Blower Porting

Now you guys got me looking at bored out throttle bodies too! Jokerz opens the snout up to 92mm.
Anybody running a larger TB? Who bored it out for you?
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actually that’s good to know. I saw that maxbore was doing xfr throttle bodies but when I spoke to the guy last time he said he wasn’t doing it anymore.

 

Does anyone know when the spring type OEM coupler was updated to add the metal reinforcement?

 

So... I was all ready to send my SC out to get ported and cleaned up (new coupler, bearings, oil, etc.) by someone, until a few minutes ago. I know it definitely needs a new coupler, so I figured I might as well do everything else to it (or let someone else), while I'm at it.

I was considering Jokerz and Stiegemeier, and even called Kong twice and sent them an email (but never heard back). I was starting to think that businesses didn't answer their phones anymore or actually want to talk to prospective customers until calling Stiegemeier. Bob at Stiegemeier talked to me for about ten minutes, and really made me stop and think. He quoted me a price of $2,295 for porting and cleaning, which I told him sounded really high, as a I know Jokerz does it all for $1,575. When I started inquiring about what all was included to justify the significantly higher price, he asked me some questions about my setup...

I told him the coupler was loose, I only have 52K miles, I've been running a 60.5mm SC/upper pulley with a tune happily for years, I purchased a 181mm crank/lower pulley that I'm about to install, etc. I also told him that I could buy a cleanup kit online for $250 and do it myself, but figured porting it while letting someone else clean it up while they have it apart (for less money than doing it solo) made sense to me. And, while I understand that Bob might not be the most knowledgeable about my car, he did bring up some thought-provoking points.

He was extremely polite and not snarky in any way (rare, these days), but basically said that if it was his car, he'd just repair the coupler and clean it up (oil change, etc.). He also said that I should install a modular GripTech pulley, so I can play around with sizing, as he thinks the 60.5mm SC pulley combined with my 181mm new crank pulley will not only take the SC beyond it's ideal efficiency, but also cause the SC to wear out a LOT faster because of the higher RPMs, so I'll want to dial in the sizing with the tune, as I go. He said that the TVS R1900 is a great SC, but if I'm going to run it that hard, I should just wait until it fails, and then get it ported while it's getting repaired.

He also asked about cooling, exhaust, etc., and when I told him that I'm significantly improving the cooling, already had an X-Pipe, cut-outs, and aftermarket rear mufflers, he said that if it was his car, he'd 100% spend the money on the cats, rather than porting the blower. He said that heat is the big killer (I was obviously already aware), and even if I ported the blower and TB, the cats would cause all of the heat to back up, thereby negating any potential benefit of porting.

Again, I'm not saying that Bob at Stiegemeier is the ultimate authority on what I should do to my car, but it seems like it would be in his best financial interest to sell me on porting/cleaning my blower, and he actually did the opposite, which definitely made me feel like he was giving me his honest opinion (even if potentially misguided). So, now I'm looking back into meth and straight-piping the cats with some kind of hot-swappable modular test pipe (or something), which would be a lot cheaper.

I feel like I'm neck deep into diminishing returns on time and money, and while I don't mind spending time/money on value (or even perceived value), I realize that my 2011 4-door is never going to be the fastest car on the road, so spending a ton more money on making it a split second faster might not continue to make as much sense. I'll still keep it, love it, and drive the ***** off of it, but it's making me think that I should just put it back together with some of the minor improvements I've already paid for, and call it a day. Especially since it'll be 4 years in October since I initially sidelined it, and I really just want to start driving it again.

 

he does have some good points. I am going grip Tec as well and do not plan on really over spinning my supercharger. I would love to see what you end up doing for a meth set up.

 

Yes he is sounding better than he use too? Maybe the negative reviews got him to change?

Yes I am close to where you are. I want to port the snout and blower and add the upper grip-tec pulley as he recommends.
But I always check with VAP and see what Chris has to say and so far he has convinced me much as Bob says above that we are in diminishing returns and if not over driving the blower you will be right at the limit.

I was hoping with the extra IC stuff I installed that I could work the upper pulley in and avoid all the heat soak problems.
One question for you and others? I can't say I have run these TVS-R1900 blowers into heat soak where the car pulls timing and all the performance goes away?
Have you?
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I have run into heat soak at the stock level on track. It pulled so much power that on a short oval track instead of hitting 82mph, I hit under 60mph and lost my last race to a f-body. Of all the things Stiegemeier sells its the Venomcooler is the part I want to buy from him. Its a cooler to cool the heatsoak on the supercharger itself - not interfering or to be confused with the intercooler. Coupled with an interchiller that runs on a separate 12V electric a/c compressor, and a blower spacer, I think the heatsoak can be fixed. Adding more heat exchangers under the hood would be a losing battle considering I can't drop a quarter in the engine bay and have it hit the ground. No air flow. The last thing that will work is water injection kit, that will drop the engine temps by over 60F instantly when you need it most. That nifty blower spacer can house the water inj, and keep this car cool in 100+F weather. Hopefully anyway, those are my plans to knock this heatsoak on its @$$. Eventually a better intercooler setup and bigger blower will drop temps ~15F and allow for 29% more CFM flow. Running E85 can drop temps 40F. Running a pyrogel blanket under the blower can drop 10F. Ceramic coating the blower housing can drop 10F. Every bit adds up.

 

Have you been able to find a place that produces the blower spacers?