So...snapped an axle at the track!. A combo of good horse power and possibly the onset of wheel hop. It felt like one hop then a loud "pow". Seems that upgraded bushing tend to help IRS minimize this possibility.
Two things. Anyone got a good source on axles other than Jag and Carid? A grand for a CV axle seems ridiculous to me. I need the left axle. Probably will need to source a used one! And any good sources on a quality performance bushing kit for the rear control arms that someone has used??? Thanks for any help in advance!


Clean snap.

 

this was my biggest fear when I took mine to the track, one of my runs I had some wheel hope (I was a bit more aggressive off the line) and I lifted because it scared me.

Curious what you find out on the replacements as it would be good to know. Allegedly the RS had stronger axles, maybe you can source those instead.

I ran Powerflex Race (black) bushings on my former car (a 2006 Lincoln LS with the same DEW98 architecture) and it definitely firmed things up on the car. The lower arms have pivot joints though and the poly bushings prevented that articulation, so what I gained in traction stability made for a little more rigidity in corners and dampening. Slight fade off. Wish I had more to offer you on advice on that. Good luck!

 

Right now it's being a pain to get the axle out of the hub. Got an axle remover today...if that doesn't get it...then the press. I'm looking at areas to improve underneath as well. Some Mustangs suffered from cradle flex causing some hop. Im looking to maybe fabricate some pieces to firm that as well. We will see. So far it is used replacement axle. Once the play funds get back to a better spot I may call Mosler and just see what they think on making a set.

 

I think your the first one I have read that broke an axle!
Car must be making huge power!

I hope we don't start seeing more of this? So far we are lucky as the power mods don't seem to take out transmissions and axles like you see on other cars.
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It made 591 rwhp (crank hp is debatable since you have to guess the percentage of parasitic losses) before i had Kong port the S/C which now produces nearly 3 lbs of boost and dragy and tuning data shows a minimum of 50 extra hp. So it does good for a fat saloon! Lol

 

It's very rare but I do remember another a few years ago who also broke an axle at the track. It's a lot of power for any component...

 

Here are some pics. Side note: I bought an axle remover and it worked very well removing the axle that I could not even sledge hammer out of the hub. I used PB Blast yesterday front and back and the axle remover today.



The axles are beefy until the spline part, then it steps down some!


You can see the twisting line

More twist!

The joint itself was in great shape with 114k on it.

 

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hey bud sorry to see that now im having second thoughts about mt et streets on mine. im dropping it off for the timing set injector hp pumps and supercharger rebuild and port next week.

did you get a run before it broke? what kind of lauch did you do when it broke

 

I raced all season last year with no problems other than spinning lol. I had the onset of wheel hop which is the kryptonite to IRS suspensions. I am now working on a plan to reduce that and if it works I will post it. Unfortunately I had found a low mileage axle replacement, but they sent me a message that they were damaged and no I got to try anD source another one...yaaayy

 

Got the axle in, removed the lower control arms and replaced the bushings with some stiffer powerhouse items. I also used urethane and filled the differential bushings and the cradle bushings. Hoping these things help with wheelhop and get my launch in a better place!

@thatjagguyracing

 

posible to post what you got and where? i'm going to follow your lead on this while mine is getting upgraded, thank you

 

Got my bushings direct from Powerflex.

Each box contains 2, one from each side.

Some require 2 sets of #11's, but not the case with mine. I needed one box of each

The huge #10's required me.to press out the center then hammer and chisel to "fold" the bushing out. I also used an air chisel but be careful about marring the mating area. If you do use a file or dremel to dress it smooth.

My small 12.5 ton press worked well in pressing the old bushings out and the new ones in.


Two of the old bushings i pressed out.

I took the old bushing that i pressed the center out of, placed it back in halfway and used the urethane that I bought to secure it back and let it dry 24hrs. It is pretty darn stiff and harder to cut than the factory rubber of the bushings. So I believe it will help the bushings that i filled in for the cradle and diff.


I bought the urethane from the local autoparts store, about $50bucks. Amazon has it for $27-ish

Hardens to 55-65 range. Several videos of using this just google "windo weld for bushings" I used it to fill my cradle and diff bushings for extra stiffness trying to reduce wheel hop.

Got my axle from ebay.

 

thank you i'm ordering 610,611,612

 

one of each package is all I need?

 

I also bought these and replace my cracked ones on the sway bar links and the tie rod (for lack of a better word) end dust covers. They fit tight enough you don't really even need to zip tie them.

 

got it

 

Yes that's is all I needed. There is a disclaimer on the product that some use the 612's in 2 places, but mine did not. I used 610,611,612, each pack has 2 bushings, one for each side, and a pack of silicone grease, although I added a nice portion of additional grease because polyurethane can squeak when they get dry. So I piled it in them.best I could lol.

 

why didn't you do #13/14 as well?

 

I did a lot of reading and seems (debatable) that the upper is less the cause of wheel hop. And I didnt want to get it super stiff in the ride. So i figured I would try these things first and see how much it helps (if any). It would not have been that much more effort. PS, it rides nearly identical to the way it did. But over a high speed dip it feels slightly firmer.