As part of a much larger project I'm deleting the Musical Instrument from the engine compartment and have a couple lingering questions that have me hesitating to close my eyes and hope for the best. I've installed the V-AP plate to make the air cooler whole and have the Symposer by the throat and safely away from the car where it can do no further harm.

Q1: The Tuning Valve (cf. part 13 in the diagram below) has a Tee into the brake vac line (part 11), which sounds important. Should I: (a) leave the Tuning Valve in place, unpowered; (b) leave it in place, powered; (a-b.1) if either of the former, cap the tube that connects to part 7, or (a-b.2) leave it open; (c) remove the Tuning Valve and effectively delete the tee; or (d) something else? What is the best practice for someone who does not intend the deletion to be reversible?




Q2: Something looks broken and I'm at a loss as to what it is and what I should be trying to connect it to...pictured in the image below. The part indicated by the arrow is just a blunt end floating in mid-air. The other end (marked "OK") continues down into the bowels of the beast and seems fine. This is right above the heater manifold (shiny new aluminum) toward the driver's side (LHD). Any insights on what this little tube is, and where I should seek its mate, would be deeply appreciated!

 

Re your Q2, pretty sure this is the transmission vent tube.
It has no "mate" or connection and it's perfectly OK as is.

 

This has been asked multiple times before. If you search for transmission vent you can find the threads. It fooled me for a while too but we finally had some knowledgeable posters fill in the blanks.
Here is what I posted on the transmission vent tube. With picture's of how this vent has changed from the 6 speed to the 8 speed ZF transmission.
Transmission Vent Tube


When I removed the Symposer I simply capped the vacuum port and left the electrical plug in place. No problems and no errors unless you dig deep into SDD.
This is all I have left on the engine.





Now one thing that has come to light and caused BIG problems is when your replacing the rear water manifold be sure and note which electrical plug goes where. The problem is Jaguar made the rear temperature sensor plug EXACTLY the same as the Symposer plug!

Here is the thread where we discovered this from information member GT40 posted. Has pictures too. Apparently another poster did swap these around and you can read his problems in that thread.
Identical Electrical Plugs on Back of Engine
.
.
.

 

Thank you both, hugely valuable.

But, UGH: I did discover that those connectors are identical. However, this was after I had pulled everything, and unfortunately I did not document with a photo or tag any connectors before yanking all those components out of there. So I have two identical connectors and must choose one...

I've scoured the fora and the intertubes to no avail. But one of them seems to want to be wire-loom clipped to the heater manifold, so I think there's a fair chance that's the one that goes to the temp sensor. The other one is a branch off a bundle running under the SC that feeds the knock sensors, I'm guessing that's the symposer's feed.

If anyone knows that I have it exactly backwards, please let me know! I'll report back here after I get everything together and press the Big Red Button.

Clearly the symposer was an afterthought on this engine.

 

Oh you will know if it's backwards! Guaranteed! Read the thread I linked.
You will get engine lights.
.
.
.

 

Yes I made that mistake when I put my engine back in.....

 

Wire colors are different, refer to electrical diagrams. Green and grey wires in the symposer connector.

 

Nup, it was designed in from the get go in 2009.

 

I promised to report back on this. @kansanbrit 's suggestion above re. wire color would have been the smart way to figure this out--you've given me new tools in my toolbox, thank you! For posterity, the one that forks off a bundle that runs stem-to-stern under the SC is the one that goes to the symposer. I'll bet it has green+gray wires.

Despite my status as a relative novice I was able, at length, to complete this job, including SC snout renovation, cooling system pipes/heater manifold aluminum upgrade, top side hoses, symposer delete, plugs, etc., and she runs like her tail's on fire. Whoever said this is a Big Job knew what they were talking about, needs a "relentless forward progress" mentality--but quite doable. Appreciate this forum of course, wouldn't attempt without knowing there's an ocean of knowledge here if/when I get in over my head.

 

Always glad to see a successful DIY repair! Thanks again for posting back to close out this thread.
Nice that it all worked out too.
I can only imagine how many thousands of dollars this would have cost at a dealer?
.
.
.