Where are you keeping the key fob? The car needs to know that the fob is there to start. Too far away and the ECU thinks you've left the car.

Does this pattern persist even if you dock the fob in the special port to the left of the steering column in the knee brace portion of the dash (LHD models, dunno where it is on right hookers)?

The start button does have two stages which can be combined into one if you press and hold the start button for a second or two. A quick press simply tells the ECU that you want only the electrics on. Press and hold for the engine to start.

This is what your dealer is referring to as "too quickly". He doesn't mean the time between entering the car and pressing the button he means the time between pressing and releasing the start button.


Try pressing and holding the start button until you hear the starter kick in. Then release the button as the engine starts.

I think you may be fooling the ECU into thinking you just want to listen to the radio for a few moments and then shut down. (Incidentally, just pressing the radio ON button will turn on the radio even if the car is OFF.)

 

There was a rumour of an electrical issue in the overhead console by the interior lights.

I didn't know you could disable the auto dip function of the rear view mirror. If the sensor at the top of the mirror glass (little eye embedded into the mirror glass right at the center towards the top of the glass) is unobstructed and it still doesn't work then it must be defective. It only works at night I believe.

I also had a creak over bumps which turns out to be the sunroof seal moving against the roof opening. It seems that a little dust in that joint is all it takes to set up this weird creaking sound over bumps that sounds for all the World like it comes from the rear suspension. Cleaning the edge of the sunroof panel with a silicone type door seal conditioner solves the problem for several weeks....

 

your key f.o.b. has a charger underneath the steering column to the left plug it in and the car will charge the key f.o.b.to remove it push on the key f.o.b and it will release.thats what was wrong with mine.

 

Not a charger but the proximity receiver is there. The fob batteries are NOT rechargeable type!!!

Later models don't have this "fob dock" but you are still to place the fob at that location if sensitivity is the fault.

The poster's symptoms may result from a faulty brake pedal pressure sensor switch. Some cars need a very firm press on the brake pedal to activate the starter rather than just the "on" accessory function.

 

Did you ever find out what was going on? Im having the same problem...

 

Have you changed the fobs battery?

 

No. But my key works to open the door. It even started twice. But now it hasnt started in a week. And the dash doesnt even come on anymore when I press the ignition button.

 

Ok... do you get a warning of no keyfob found? Have you tried putting the key in the slot to see if it can read it there?

Also, be careful replacing the battery. I did and bent the antenna inside there. It looks like a small piece of bent aluminum. It took me a week to figure this out.

 

Sometimes I get the key is not inserted warning, but then I just place the key back in. And it goes away. My car started out not working when I bought it. Then after about 2 weeks, it crank up and ran 2 days. Then it went back to not working. I thought it was the ignition housing for the key fob, so I took it out, examined it, tried to use it, then put it back in. Didnt work. Later, I read a few forums and check under my carpet and found a bunch of water. My display screen is currently not working, my radio is flashing the logo, and im trying to figure out what to do. I have disconnected the modules from under both seats and plan to replace. The logo no longer flashes, but it is still there. The display screen does not come on. The key will no long lock into the ignition. Am I doing anything wrong? What should I be doing?

 

You bought it like this knowing there was an issue? Or this happened after you bought?

First step is to pull all the codes with a jag code reader. I'd suggest you buy one as you may have a bit of troubleshooting to do unless your dealer is friendly enough to keep helping. They run about 150$ upwards for ones that have the specific jag codes. I have icar soft LRII for the Jag

Then check a few basics. Do you have a second key fob and if so any difference with that one? Can you still lock and unlock doors with the fobs?

When you get into the car do you get the red pulsating start button? And if you try and start it what does it say on the dash? A few errors e.g. Can't find fob, brake pedal not pressed (hard enough) but it should tell you

A couple of things to try. Stamp the brake pedal very hard when you press the start button. All the vacuum boost will be gone from the brakes by now so you are relying on physical pressure. It can get very stiff

How is the battery? Given all your issues I'd suggest replacing it anyway as if it's weak it can cause electrics gremlins - and you may have drained it now anyway. Could try connecting it up to jump cables and see if that helps?

If none of that works then try plugging back in whatever you unplugged - one at a time

Good luck. And let us know what you find

 

My car started exhibiting the same failure to start issues identified above. Was the problem and/or solution ever determined.

 

What is wrong
whats update on the problem

 

I read a few had similar issues and it was the brake switch. The car doesn't recognize the brake is pressed.

 

Ok cause it does sound like it's wanting to kick over just never does. But know when u have a car with a key everything comes on and gurrrs at u but doesn't actually start

 

Ive been looking on here for my problem and I guess this one is close I have a 2011 XF I was finding little puddles of water under the car I filled it up and it leaked more I replaced the plastic pipe in the back I replaced the water pump After finish I hooked the battery back up and now no start It will crank fine and all the lights come on but no start I tried to hook my OBD II up and there is no power at the connection Ive been al over this thing and cant find a wire or vacum line loose. Battery is new it ran fine before this issue Any ideas would be appreciated Thanks

 

man i’m having the same issue kind of, replaced the rear coolant crossover pipe and the thermostat with some hoses and now the vehicle cranks but no start. no pcm codes either. also has fuel pressure. not sure what I may have touched while making repairs but i’ve went through every step and can’t figure it out.

 

Shop put a bad or incorrect CCA battery did this on mine, Not pressing the brake pedal hard enough recently, Mine did this a couple times and it wouldn't start with the headlight switch set to auto. I had to turn the headlight switch to off and it started up. Also I read the fuel pump filter housing pins can short out the pump causing this issue not starting-
This is some mess to deal with on a high end luxury car. It had one job!