Any vacuum oil pump will work, here's mine :

https://smile.amazon.com/Hydro-Turf-...ateway&sr=8-46

It's been very handy for lots of things.

To adapt the tube to the one on the Jag, I use a piece of rubber vacuum hose over both tubes. Simples.

 

Wow ok, the pump looks like it has its own slim tube, will that not slide all the way down to the bottom of the sump pan itself?

 

I'm not sure about the 5.0 but my 3.0 has a pickup tube permanently installed in the middle of the oil filler. I assumed that's been positioned ideally in the sump, so I attach my tube to that one, rather than putting my tube all the way into the sump.

The tube that comes with the pump is too big to fit inside the pickup tube.

 

I just checked and when I take the oil filler cap off (not filter) I can see the metal tube permanently attached inside the oil fill hole do you think that's the metal tube that goes to the bottom of the pan? so just suck the oil from the top then no need to put tube all the way down I'm assuming!. I just don't want to leave any dirty oil left behind..Just bought my first Jag last week so I have to get familiar with al this now, ha..

 

Yes, that's my understanding anyway.

 

Should the oil be warm/hot so it flows better or does it matter... One last thing not sure if you have had this but my service required notification comes up for about 3 seconds after start up then goes away can this be cleared myself or does a code reader need to be hooked up.. thank u

 

Bri's Jag, I had the same questions that you have had. I did my first 2 changes pulling the bottom cover. What a PITA. Yes, it can be done and yes there is a drain plug down there. It takes about a half hour to pull and another half hour to put back on. Sucking it out the top is much, much easier. Now, for doing that, it says to have the oil warm, not hot and not cold. The first time I did mine, I figured I would see what happened when the oil was cold. It will come out. But, don't be in a rush. You can plan on it taking a half hour if not more to get the oil out of the pan. It goes really SLOW!!!!!!!! I have found that if you take the car out for a drive and get it up to temp then you come home and park the car. You can then pop the hood/bonnet and remove the engine cover. You can then gathering up your tools, go inside and grab a beer, that will "waste" about 15-20 minutes. Then you can connect up the pump and it will be warm. Then you can suck out the pan in under 10 minutes.

A little trick that I use, pump the oil straight into a 5 gallon gas can labeled "oil". You can do about 3 oil changes before you will have to take it in to dump. One less thing you will have to clean later. As the pump is sucking out the oil, that is the perfect time to replace the oil filter and check the other fluids to see what is low.

 

Guess I'm lucky they'll take used oil when they do the trash collection.

 

This is how simple it is to do an oil change in the current model XJs and F Types.
What do you guys think?

 

I agree, undoing the bottom tray cover is a pain but it allows me to check everything out down there to make sure nothing is leaking and there are no suspension bits that need replacing.

 

No the oil suction tube is very crooked and you can't insert a tube inside it and get into the oil pan.
That's exactly why Jaguar installed it at the factory.

I also prefer the drain plug method for the same reason XJ8R said above.
It's amazing how many times I have heard these engines don't have a drain plug from people who have never even looked!
I got suspicious and the next time I had it up in the air on my lift I took a look. It's the same as it has always been just like Chris said.

What Jaguar did was reduce the time and effort for their service people to do oil changes. Note they have NOT reduced the price of the oil change.
You can literally do it in under 20 minutes from the top of the engine. It is amazing fast for sure!

I have upgraded my old hand held Mityvac vacuum pump to a modern fluid extractor.

I got this model;



What I do find as very common is the false belief that fluid changes are not needed for the transmission, rear end, transfer case, brake fluid.
So the manufactures don't put drain plugs in and you only have access to the fill plugs. The only way to service this is to use a vacuum extractor.

This one was about $95. Paid for itself with the first use at Jaguar's current oil change prices!

That's the advantage of the one I show above. It comes with 3 different diameter tubes and they all fit together as well as a brake bleeder adapter. It also has a visible fluid level so you don't over fill it and a nice pour spout on the top for emptying it out. Plus when you manually pump the vacuum you push down to generate the vacuum so it's easy to do. But the best feature is it can also be compressed air powered. One downside is it's plastic so watch out that you don't suck out really hot oil as the container will distort from the heat.

All the parts stores wherever I have lived take used oil? Have you called around?
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Wanted to post this;
If you use Mobil 1 they have a GREAT rebate going on!
You can get $12 off 5 liters with a limit of 4 jugs. That's a steal.

Here is the rebate form and you have until September 30, 2019.

Oil Rebate
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Clubairth1, good post brother! Im going to take a look at that fluid extraction pump. I’d just rather change the oil myself. I don’t have to wait on a dealer, adjust my schedule, or pay their prices. I’ve learned so much about my car from simply getting in the garage and doing things myself.

 

It's great to do your oil change, but we, also, need the definitive service reset reset solution

 

Hey XJsss, its been answered. There's only two ways to do it. You need an OBDII scanner (aftermarket) or JLR SDD (dealer software) to do it.

OBDII scanners are all different and have different capabilities depending on how much you spend. Some willl enable you to do things inclusive of reading trouble codes for your cars, programming additional keys, clearing codes. Cheaper ones may only allow you to read codes. Here's a video of an aftermarket one. I'm not advocating this one, as I don't know what it can do, but it's an example.
If you only want to do basic functions, I'd recommend researching an aftermarket OBDII scanner.

The most current version of JLR SDD (Jaguar Land Rover Software Diagnostics Delivery) is what dealers use. This is also what I use. It is extremely difficult to setup and install. Not impossible though. You most likely won't get it all setup in one shot, and you'll have play around with it. It's needed if you're going to do a lot of major programming, servicing, and modifications to your vehicle. I was knee deep in installing a factory rear seat entertainment system in my XJ. After I was all done, there wasn't any options to control the newly installed rear seat screens, making the whole job pointless. As such, I had to modify my cars CCF files, to enable the rear dvd buttons to show on the front nav screen. This required JLR SDD, which turned into another project all by itself. I was able to figure it out after a few weeks of trial and error. But if it wasn't for that project, I probably wouldn't have it.

Summed up, you need one of the two. Or you could have an independent dealer clear it for a small price. Either way, there's options for an individual to clear that message without the aid of a dealer. There's enough information on this forum and youtube to resolve it. If I can personally assist, just let me know man.

 

ABrice I wanted thank you for helping me in the past with a different problem.

About the SDD. Are you a software guy by chance?
Because the SDD is about the most fiddly, confusing bunch of software I have fooled with in a long time.
I have several versions and an old laptop but still have not had the courage to hook up my car using the Chinese clone Drew Technologies interface cable.
Lots of horror stories about that cable!
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I agree. SDD is a pain to deal with. I wouldn’t consider myself a software guy. I’m fairly decent at researching and tinkering with things to make them work. I was able to get v152 working. I found it on some random website. The files looked similar to all of the previous versions of SDD that I have so I downloaded and it worked. Attached is the link that I found v152 on, however I think it maintains the latest version. V157 is on there on now.
https://diagnosticdelivery.jlrext.com/idscentral
I also used a Chinese Drew Tech Mongoose cable and it worked just fine. If the software for the cable has been installed correctly, the light at the bottom of the connector should be flashing red and green. Have you made it past the log-in screen on any of the versions that you have?