Ok, I managed to get through the torture of removing and replacing the alternator-a ridiculous job for a serviceable part. Now putting on a new belt but I think I must be stupid as I’ve no idea how I’ll get it round the tensioner pulley between the pulley and the bracket ?? Thanks anyone

 

Usually there is a 1/2" square hole in the tensioner arm and you put the 1/2" socket bar in and then you can rotate the arm/tensioner pully to a point where the belt will fit over the pully.

 

Thank you, I’ve found that and will use it to slacken when I’m ready for the last pulley on but it needs 3 hands for routing on the tensioner pulley so…… I loo loosened the spring part from the block a little and the pulley dropped down enough for me to thread the belt from the cam pulley-just have to relocate and t tighten….hopefully🤞It’s been a real pain to swap out that alternator with just a Jack or two and rudimentary tools….it had better last🤣

 

I have a…..strange symptom?!!!!!
Last year I did all the belts, pulleys, rollers.…. On the front of the car. Among other things
I had a strange noise from the front.…. Just after.
But all started with a really bad bad bad alternator clutch... Those ***** ware about 1/3 (yes… one third of them ) gone. And I think it was blocking and sticking but the power of the rotation of the belt grinded them all down. You know the problem with the alternator clutch! So blocked the clutch might of been that the belt might of spiined over the clutch with the clutch stuck, that might of give me the loosing power to the steering wheel felling often in traffic and steering wheel loosing relation with the wheels.
So… after that, I had all the pulleys and rollers and the belt replaced. Part of a full distribution and auxiliary refurb. Ina parts…. Or continental… I can't remember. The pulleys ware all original, jaguar, because that's the only way to find them. No aftermarket parts on both pulleys
So… after all this, I still have a strange friction, simetric round, timed, rolling.… noise. In front of the engine. I changed the power steering pump with a sh one. The air compressor was left at it was because I was told its ok. I dismantled the original power steering pump and no ware and tear visible, other then some verry light scuffing On the lid, that could not be felt by fingernail. So…. That was ok. Another symptom was that the steering wheel from time to time was going without any connection to the wheels for 1 second. Probably.… alternator clutch was sticking…grinding… and the pump was loosing normal and constant belt moving and for that…. Power! !!! That's why it was feeling loose for 1 second.…. Preety often.
At one time….. At a shop, we did the climate on of test. And the noise went and camed back. Ac off…. Noise off. Ac on…. Noise on.
So the conclusion was….ac compressor gone bad. If I remember correctly….. When I had the engine out, the might of shown me that the compressor clutch was not making any noise, so the noise must have been internal…. So compressor kaput/gone.
So…. I started driving the car without the Ac.… I mean Ac off. An the noose whooshing sound, that is regular an Rithmic but NOT PERMANENT was pretty much gone. It seems to appear verry rarely…. And verry fainted.
This week I took the car for a 10 km drive…. Normal drive… calm and in speed limit. Not too much traffic. At cold start…5 degrees Celsius, no noise. Only engine noise, no other noise. I got to a place I had to be, roped the car and restarted when I left. After the restart, at normal operating temperature, I think it started whoshing again. And by the time I got home I could hear it distinctly over the engine noise. Rhythmic, but not permanent…. Whoosh whosh pause whoosh wosh pause.… rapid sucsesion, about 1-2 second per interval. Because its not a continuous noise, but fast interval repeated!
With Ac off.
Bettween the original distribution full refurb that was less than a year ago, and today, I changed the watter pump because it felt….. Not good. It felt like it was rubbing internally at movement by hand. Like it had a plastic bearings. No grinding noise. And also changed a roller for the belt and the belt.
I have bought a new compressor. The old one, still made cold air. But being under suspicion that the internal axe and bearings gone bad…. I didn't used it. And drove the car about 1000 km in all the year.
Because I had the engine out, I even changed the crankshadt big roller… damper thing. Because it presented signs of being recentered… because it has that rubber damping. With a new one, aftermarket not original. Febi I think.

So….. Where is the noise coming from?
Alternator clutch…. New
Water pump…2 new pumps
New rollers. Auxiliary and engine distribution
New original tensioners. Auxiliary and engine distribution.
Another sh steering pump.???? I will reuse the original one because internally looked ok
Ac compressor? Compressor gone? The clutch that is electromechanical gone and still sticking when warm and making noise? Might be the clutch stuck on always active even if Ac is off and when warm rubbing and making noise? Other ideas?
Any expertise and experience with similar problems?
What else is there?
Any chance they are all misaligned? Some special way to align then that the shop didn't do? Same for the engine distribution? Rollers and belt?

What else is there? ????????
Being that you really can't see the whole movement of the pulleys and components…. And pretty much can't inspect them visually…noise seems to be coming from the lower driver side of the car, left hand drive car. I am really…. Surprised, annoyed, irritated by the sound that I can hear after all new parts.

On park, iddle, if you start revving it, the sound disappears or its overcome by engine noise. Its not detected as it goes up with the revs.

Again…. I am really really desperate to find the source of the noise. Could it be from the engine distribution? Not the auxiliary? No continuous grinding noise… just… something rubbing touching... Maybe loose bearing.… rethmic at 1 second interval and NOt continuous!

So… guys…. From experience…. From knowledge.….. Please help. I will change the compressor... And I will put bech the original steering pump. But what could else be…. If not this? What to look for?

Ps: also important. At cold start…. Regardless the outside temperature… for 2…4 seconds Is has a rattley noise.… that just disappears. That seems to be not engine internal but outside….front low. Hearing it from the driver chair. I always start all my cars with the door open to hear the start. Especially the first start of the day.
And second. At the first start…. When the ignition is on, with no foot on the brake, because I always check the oil at first start of the day….. There are some CLICKING noises….. Under the car, front maybe, lower part of the engine bay. That's how I hear them from the driver chair. Electrical valves clicking? Preety loud. 1..2..3.4 clicks
And…. Something rattley… that goes away in 2-4 second also,,,,, but I thought those ware the heat shields that rattle at the first start. Those aluminium shields, around the egr, exhaust…. Engine…. That's the noise.

Hope someone can ….. Help. Somehow! With ideas or experience.

 

The "belt / roller" noise: A radiator fan rubbing to the shorud? Fan is on when aircon is On.
Ratley noise can came from exhaust "flex" parts if the protective mesh have bit lose by age.

 

Is that possible? Did it happened?
Surely.…. I will do all proper checks.…. To verify!
But really….. Is it possible? I mean…. Yeah it is….. But do you have knowledge of this being a case in real life?
Although…… the moments I hear it, the fan should be moving slow mode, and not full blast. And slow mode is a default to help the engine cool? And I can't hear the actual fan working because is on slow mode, but somehow it touches.…… rhythmic.…. When in slow iddle mode.
. Sir…… if that is the case and the source of the problem, I will send you a verry good bottle of wine from my country.

 

Yes, an broken or loose shroud or someting hanging in there can cause weird effects. I have seen remains of small animal (rat,sqirrel?) stuck half on blade, half on shourd.

Personally an very freightfull event for myself, with radiator fan, happened an about decade ago when i drove long distance on winter snowstorm. (600km from city of Oulu to city of Helsinki) Took about 7 hours and i did it one go, because wanted to get home for few hours sleep before morning wake up for work. After highway when tuning to the smaller road near my destination an terrible shake, noise and catastrofic collapse of the universe on front of my car. I immediatly pull over and thought that this is it. Engine totalled. I turned ignition off ....and... Noise, shake and chaos did not stop even engine stopped. WTF?
-> On that vehicle the fan was front of the radiator and about half covered by bumper. Lower half have been collected an solid 5cm cover of ice/snow. The fan havent been running for hours, because -25C cool air on highway speeds is more than enough to keep engine cool. When i turned on sideroad, the airflow eased and fan start to rotate. With great vibration and noise. Fan itself survived but shroud not.
If you get it fixed, please enjoy the wine yourself. You have earned it

 

I really hope this fan idea will be the reason of the noise! I have went with about 7 shops…. About that noise. A real headache! Will check the situation and will pay the good idea and great experience fee!!

 

Sad…. But its not the radiator anything….

Clima compressor on off…. Doesn't matter. The noise is still there. Rithmic and…. Like a rubber rubbing.… like a belt on a roller…. Nana…..nana…. Nana…..
With radiator off. I took a good look at it. Not moving. So….
What the…… ????? I am desperate!!!!
I have to take off the whole air intake…. To get to the distribution. If its not the auxiliary belt and rollers I have to dig in the engine distribution. Front belt and rollers. Maybe the idiot shop mechanic forgot to tighten some rollers.
Or maybe the are bad in1000 km. One thing I can say preety sure, it soounds when its at normal temperature. Not at cold!
But.….. I do have to repeat one question!
Is the front but distribution belt suppose to rub?
I changed 2 belts already since I got the car
The first I got with the car didn't look at it. The second…. New, that I still have, showed in 500 km signs of rubbing on the back side towards the engine. You guys explained me that it auto straights itself by the rollers. Could the angle of the rollers be off?
Or….. Maybe the noise is from the oil pump at iddle and hot? Anyone heard of noise from the oil pump?

Thinking about it….. The noise might of appeared after the oil pump change and the pump was out the car without takeing the engine out. It was done through the engine bay. And the mechanic nicked the carter gasket, rearrange it and mounted the oil pump on the crank. And maybe it didn't rearrange the gasket ok and the pump was not wright! And it gave it internal noise( do to abnormal angle) and ware???
I kind of belive that on park with sound hearing, if you start revving it, the noise in question disappears!
So…. Oil pump? Ideas if possible?
Rollers or something on auxiliary?
The soound seems to be outside the engine block….
I can't see much on the auxiliary belt, but beside the little wobble on the crank pulley, all looks straight. The same wobble that I had BEFORE I changed the pulley with a NEW one.
Next…… front distribution belt? Rollers? The tensioner was original and new, the rollers also new but not original. In first belt, 300-600 km had rubbing marks towards the engine? Why?

This noise, together with little crank pulley wobble, and some light fluctuating vibrations, was the reason I teared the engine appartallready once. To find that the main bearings ware all good within signs on them, and the piston bearings had discolouration on the up position. And changed them all.

Now…… after this, could the clutch of the ac co pressor do that noise? Its not grinding, its rithmic. But not permanent brighter constant! Fss fass pause, fss fss pause…. 1…2 seconds repeating interval.
Other then that…… the car seems fine.

And…. Why I am talking to you guys about this insisting on this.
Number one reason; there are not good mechanics here, especially for jaaag that is rare( think 4…5 Xj in whole Bucharest)
Second: I played the whats wrong with the car game with them all ready. And taking advantage of my care and good intentions, I got the engine out and changed the crank bearings…… when that was not the problem. So….. Money, time, nerves, emotions. They ware swearing before seeing the crank that I might need even a new crank or engine. All silent after they saw them and the crank.
Third. Don't know in other parts of the world, but here mechanics, especially on high end cars….. Lie and lie and lie. About anything. That's why we have a lot of sh engines refurbed on the market, and a lot of cars with dead engines. When they get a client, they kill the engine (especially for lr Jag and Mercedes) because they are expensive and clients don't know whats wrong, SO THEY can sell it after as a sh refurbed part. For 10.000 euro. So they make the problem to offer the solutions, another engine from another fool of a client that payed for another refurb. And the bad engine that is good is sold after…. And so on….. And they make money for villas and boats and the clients just pay. And don't have a good reliable working car.

Man…. I am so upset with this.…. Maybe you get it from all I have wrote!
Ps: I know you guys cant fix by talking here…..
But some ideas might help. Thanks

 

Hmm....
Like i wrote earlier, the very same engine is used (in high volumes) on PSA vehicles (Citroen / Peugeot), so maybe you can find an mechanic from their service shops willing to help? (he will be delighted to find out that the engine is longitute and much easyer to work with than front wheel driven PSA)
If you have seen rubbing marks on timing belt -> its highly worth to investicate where it is rubbing. Maybe some of the plastic cover is not located correctly? Cam sprokets have an edges keeping the timing belt on line. Rollers are "axled" by their mounting bolts.Should be straight exept if there is some dirt between surfaces.
The timing belt job is quite easy DIY, but take some time because all the stuff have to remove away before access. An timing tool set is good to have. Cam sprokets can be locked by 6mm drills but flywheel need proper tool. (available from eBay)
Oilpump: Its very hard to get it wrong without having serious issues. Oilpump is quite big componet on front oif the engine and if wrongly mounted it will leak oil for sure. Oilpump rotor itself have few degree play for crankshaft by desing, because lining never be 100% on this type of construction.
You can try to remove the serpentine belt to count out air compressor bearing. Off course you lose alternator and waterpump too, but if you run short period without it´s Ok. Note: If your serpentine belt ever catch some coolant it can cause small sliping on that spot. This can make some noises. You can try to spray Brake Cleaner on the belt (inside and outside) when the noise is on and engine running. (be carefull spraying anything to the rotating parts. Use eye protection) If you hear that the noise changes or disappears for a moment you have been found the cause. Even fixed it?

 

thanks for the answer.
dirt on the contact surface of the rollers is in My mind also!
And…. About any of the auxiliary belt parts….. Compressor is already bought….. And if any other of them is gone…. Will replace no problem.
About oil pump…. I checked the pressure after bearings changed and it was ok….. That was my greatest fear.
And….. You are right. Disassemble of the front to get to the belts is a diy job. But I don't have a garage. And on my personal parking space, bought, I can't do it. Because I am exasperated by dust from the street that is loose stone and dirt. Not paved. So I really scared that in the course of the operation, dust my get in the air pipes or anything and get in the motor. Really scared, especially if the wind blows. So…. Will see about that.
Now…. The summer is coming up…. Will try to get hand on and dirty with the car. Do stuff myself. Thank you

 

Do you live on single house or flat? (i mean: Are your parking area "common" parking field or in your own yard?
If your own yard, then you could use Pop-Up tent with walls to have cover from enviroments. I used this kind of Pop-Up tent next to my van with sidewalls when i raced and have to build an pit for myself in open pit area of the racetrack. https://technishelter.com.au/marquee...technishelter/ There are many manufacturers for this kind of Pop-Up tents by pricing 250€ -1500€. This just happened to appear firts on google search. I used canisters (water/fuel) to keep it in ground. (spikes were not allowed by racetrack owners) One man build this kind of tent just in minutes. Note: These pop-up tents are not made for pernament use because the joints will not last.
Here its possible to rent these as well for about 50€ / weekend. (and mat for floor around 10€)

 

its a small 6 apartment block! But we have Individual parking. Property! But the street is also private, owned by all the owners on the street. And its not tarmac or concrete, its only rocks! So…. Dust.
But I do have a curiosity!
The radiator fan has 2 settings right?
One like an iddle…. Low speed
The other one.… high spinning.
Could the low rotation one….. May not be working? Could it.….. Rotate internally and only the high speed one actually work? Its like a clutch in there?
Thinking about it…. I only see the fan at high speed….. And not any other intermediary speed…. Or slow speed.
Actually….. I had a discussion about this…. Not seeing the low speed ventilation actually working. Only high speed one

 

Ok. Then you are able to put an tent up protecting from elements. (bigger apartments there are always that one flower hat lady to complain)

Radiator fan is actually stepless running by PWM modulation.
From Service and repair manual p.1114:

"COOLING FAN
The cooling fan is operated by a fan control module integrated into the cooling fan motor. The fan control module regulates the
voltage, and subsequently the speed, of the cooling fan motor in response to a PWM (pulse width modulation) signal from the
ECM (engine control module). The ECM calculates the required fan speed from the engine temperature, A/C (air conditioning)
system pressure and transmission oil temperature. Under hot operating conditions, the fan may continue to operate for up to
four minutes after the engine has been switched off."