Hello,
2014 3.0 AWD 38k miles. All of the buttons underneath the navi screen have stopped working except for the hazard lights. The screen has the climate control as off and only the seat massager’s will turn on not the heated or cooled seats and I can only control the volume from my steering wheel. I have seen people having similar problems to mine in other posts but all they speak of to fix it was to disconnect the battery for like a half hour and then reconnected it. I’ve tried that twice and all it does is reset the memory in the car settings. any ideas on how to fix it as when I tried to bring it to the dealership under the warranty I was told that although electrical is covered they would most likely be charging me a $400 diagnostic fee just to check it out, which is really confusing. It’s covered under warranty yet they want $400 to figure out if it’s covered under warranty. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You,
Mark

 

I think I would be checking the relevant fuses.

 

Tried that but the fuses are intact and there is almost 10 fuses associated with those buttons that’s why I’m at a standstill and can’t figure out what the issue is and I think it’s total bullshit that the dealership is trying to charge me $400 to diagnose something that should be covered under warranty.

 

Normally the diagnostic fee would count towards any repair that you get done. If the repair turns out to be covered under warranty, diagnostic fee should not be charged to you. Did you confirm if that is the case?

Is thus a CPO warranty?

 

Yeah this is the CPO warranty. I feel like the dealership picks and chooses when to assess this fee and when to not because about a month ago the catalytic converter needed to be replaced and they replaced it under warranty no charge but while looking at the warranty to see about electrical it states that the catalytic converter is something that would not be covered under the warranty so I’m totally confused.

 

The Catalytic converters are covered under EPA regulations for 8 years or 80k which ever comes first. So that repair had nothing to do with CPO, IMHO.

 

There’s also a California emissions warranty, for 7 years, 70k.

I was thinking, when you disconnected the main battery, did you also disconnect the aux one? Might need to.

 

Yes i disconnected both the large battery and the smaller battery twice. first time for like 5 minutes the second time for 2 hours. The second time reset everything in the car except for the memory seats.

 

How old is your battery? Do you still have the original one that came with the car? If so, a new battery may very well solve your problems.

 

I believe it is the original battery that came with the car.

 

Your car is a 2014 so a new battery will be a good investment anyway; why wait until it fails completely? With these cars, a battery that is even slightly weak can cause a plethora of electrical gremlins. It may or may not fix your immediate problem, but personally, for the price of a battery, I'd give it a try. Good luck!

Dwayne

 

thank you, OK I had both of the batteries in the trunk tested by AutoZone or something and the bigger battery they said was perfect and actually over performing but the little auxiliary battery was only functioning at 40% and needed to be replaced however I can’t seem to find this battery anywhere as it looks like it’s a specially made by JAGUAR do you know any other place besides JAGUAR that might make an aftermarket of this little auxiliary battery. I’m not cheap but $300 for a little battery for a car I’m probably going to trade in soon seems excessive especially when it might not even fix my problem.

 

The smaller battery is only for the stop/start function; it would not cause the problems you are having. If your battery is original to the car, it's highly unlikely to be "over performing" regardless of what AutoZone says. If you search "battery issues" on this forum you'll find numerous people with the X351 who have had batteries test as good, but when a new battery was installed it cured their electrical problems. These cars need their batteries to be fully charged and anything less will cause trouble. For that reason, if you do decide to replace the battery, make sure the new one is fully charged before installation - they can, and do, lose a bit of their charge sitting on the shelf. Also, the specific battery requirement is extremely important - you can't just stick anything in there. Unless you're a big fan of the stop/start feature, I wouldn't bother replacing the little battery at all... especially if you're thinking of trading the car soon.

 

Thanks for the input... I wouldn’t mind replacing either battery if I knew that would fix the problem I am just not convinced that it is the battery. I feel like it’s a short in the panel itself.... I took apart the whole entire panel down to the circuit board today and noticed 3 black spots next to one of the silver capacitors idk if it was just Random or if it was the result of a short circuit. These are the receipts from the battery test they did.

Left is the small auxiliary battery. I’ve read on a few threads where people have disconnected this battery all together. Do you think that’s a viable option for my current issue?

 

Was the engine running or off during the test? I don't know about the black spots but it seems to me true a short circuit would have probably blown a fuse and you said earlier that all the fuses were okay. Then again, I'm no mechanic. In answer to your latest question: no, I do not think anything you do to the small battery (replace or disconnect) is going to have any affect on your current issue; it is only for the stop/start feature.

 

They entered 450cca for the aux battery, but it’s actually rated for 200cca, which means far from underperforming, it exceeded its rating by 40%.

 

I would get an electrician friend to check the board for a short. I’ve watched several YouTube videos of people repairing shorted Xbox boards. Looks like pretty quick work with a multimeter to diagnose a short.

 

Did you ever resolve the issue? I have a 2016 with exactly the same problem. It's in the shop right now and they don't know how to fix it.

 

If your sure the battery is OK I would shop EBay and get another panel. Should not be very expensive?
Get the number off your old one and post a picture back here if you need help.

There are several different styles of panels and they did change over the years. New they are expensive at $600-$1200 depending on exactly what you have. Has the shop removed the old one yet? It's pretty simple and there should be a part number sticker on it somewhere. They don't normally go bad so I would be comfortable getting a used part. Should NOT require programming but I not 100% sure.

This could be the correct one. It's $375. It's also brand new!
AC Panel

Maybe this one and only about $150??
AC Panel
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any solution?