FWIW, Castrol oil is not the ONLY brand that meets M2C-925A. Nothing you find at Walmart or Auto-Zone etc. does, but a German oil branded "Liqui-Moly" does, as has been suggested by another member. It is available on Amazon for approx. $30.00 for a 5 liter container, shipped. Not sure if it glows under a black light, but if it meets the spec, it is fine to use. Jaguar does not REQUIRE Castrol - they RECOMMEND it.

 

Ha! I just barely beat you to it, see my prior post.

 

I wrote a thread on the oil on the UK forum including all my research but I can't get on at the moment to check (same username). Since this oil is rated for 15k miles, I see no reason to buy anything but what is actually OE, the Castrol OE oil. I have no doubt if you have an engine issue and you did not use the Castrol OE, they will not honor the warranty. Is it worth it to save $50?

 

Actually, if it meets the 925 spec, they cannot dishonor the warranty. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975 precludes them from doing so. The Liqui-Moly is rated at 15,000 miles as well. If you do enough research, you find claims that it is superior to Castrol, search further, and you can people that would never NOT use Castrol. Bottom line is if you use Castrol because you BELIEVE it to be better, more power to you. If you use it because you are afraid not doing so will void your warranty, you should be aware that such behavior is inconsistent with US law. The $50.00 savings is not that important. I am just not going to be told what oil to run based on JLR co-branded marketing agreement.

 

Just FYI.
Oil capicity for 5.0L(NA and SC) is 7.25 Liters-15.3 Pints, 7.65 quarts.

 

I'm not opposed to another oil as long as it meets the specification that jaguar recommends. It is just when you have a car that you cannot verify the timely service and proper oil was used for the time in service we have seen many engine leaks/failures. My recommendation is for piece of mind and long engine life, not warranty validity.

 

There are not many that meet 925 spec, that's for sure! I have to say, I like the convenience of the 5 liter jugs the Liqui-Moly uses, and having it delivered to my door step. I'll be visiting my dealer for some electrical gremlins under my CPO. I'll report back if I get scolded.

 

I highly doubt the Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram dealership from which I bought this car actually went through the trouble of sourcing 925A spec oil. So if the Jag dealer doesn't swap it out tomorrow, I'll definitely do so just for peace of mind.

 

Well, the dealership claims the sensor is fine. They also claim the CPO warranty won't cover the oil pan leak because there's no actual gasket, just sealant and the warranty doesn't cover the sealant. They wanted $800. I would've laughed in the guy's face if he weren't so nice and polite.

Anyways, looks like I'll be doing this repair myself along with a fresh oil change.

After a few days of driving a bargain-basement FPace, I'm itching to get my XJ back.

 

I would escalate to JLR with this.

 

It's really not worth the hassle for me. I found the correct spec sealant online for $15 and I was planning on doing an oil change anyway. At least I'll know everything has been done correctly if I do it myself. The Jaguar dealers here in SoCal are not very reliable.

 

Usually changing the oil pan seal is a big job. What is involved on the Jag?

 

According to the workshop manual...drain the oil, unbolt the pan, clean up the mating services, apply the sealant, reinstall pan and torque the bolts, allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours, and then refill with oil. Access is very easy, nothing in the way, so it should be fairly simple. I replaced the oil pan and transmission pan gaskets on my old X350, so it should similar enough.

 

I don't know if you do it or not, but I use a little degreaser on the pan and the block. I've had leaks from not cleaning the oil off good enough in the past.
It kept the sealer from attaching to the metal and developed a leak in a couple weeks.
I do the same for the tranny pan. Although with a tranny you have to be quick because another drip will form and you'll have to clean the case again.

 

Agreed. You have to get the mating surfaces smooth and spotless.

 

Have you tried Rusnak in Pasadena? The service manager Edan has helped me out a few times. Even after warranty.

 

No, but I guess I'll give them a try next time something comes up. I called Hornburg Jaguar about something else and they wanted a $200 diagnosis fee even with the warranty still in effect. Ugh.

Anyways, I completed the oil pan repair this weekend. Everything went very smoothly. The hardest part was really just making sure the mating surfaces were spotless. After allowing the sealant to cure for 24 hours, I refilled the engine with fresh oil and everything is nice and clean and leak-free.

BTW, the correct spec sealant is Loctite 5900 Instant Gasket. That stuff is strong even before it's cured.