Ok guys... I went to look at a 2016 XJL Port with a 3.0L engine...with 46k miles on it. 2016 XJL 3.0L in Tampa
LOVED the car and even placed a deposit down for them to hold it. ONLY issue is this audible ticking when I started the engine. It was storming and I didn't get to test drive it, so didn't get the engine up to operating temp. Only ran for like 3 minutes.
My initial thought is the car probably been sitting for a few days since its last been driven, and it could just be a lifter tick.

So to you guys with the 3.0L ....any thoughts?
I attached a video file.

20230710_175818.mov

Also a video of my 2022 BMW X3 (warm engine/daily driver) for comparison

20230710_224635.mov

 

Not sure if I uploaded the files correctly.

 

Prime culprits for engine rattles and ticks on the AJ126 V6 (and AJ133 V8) are timing chains, SC tensioner, SC coupler/torsion isolator, lifters, high pressure fuel pumps and fuel injectors. With the timing chains, torsion isolator, SC tensioner and HPFPs tending to rattle more than tick and the lifters and fuel injectors tending to tick more than rattle.
You engine sound (yes the upload works) is definitely more of a tick than a rattle so my best guess is either lifters or fuel injectors.
These engines all have the fuel injector tick, that is normal, but the lifters should not tick as loud as the noise on your video.
Maybe get a mechanic's stethoscope (plenty going cheap on Fleabay) and have a closer listen.

 

The microphones of mobile devices don´t always pass the sound like an ear hears it, but for my ears the ticking have more "chamber" sound than lifters or injectors. It is also quite fast for idle. If AJ126 would have an dampered belt pulley i would suspect that. Outcome of pulley, I suspect weared supercharger bearings. Propably the plades are touching slightly. (or wear on SC snout coupler)
However: Check that the serpentine belt tensioners are rolling smoothly. If they vibrate/jump there might be failed belt/tensioner or foreing objects stuck on pulleys.

 

It is definitely an AJ126, that much is obvious from looking at the video.
I also doubt it is a worn coupler rattling, I know that sound very well and it is an irregular uneven slow rattle at idle and nothing like the fairly fast and regular tick tick tick I hear in the video.

 

I find these DI engines have a loud tick sound when first started but it declines fast as the engine runs some.
More noise than I thought too. But it does appear to be normal.
.
.
.

 

So do you guys think I should pull the trigger? I can deal with minor issues. Since I plan on paying cash, I just don't want to deal with something catastrophic, after paying that much money.

I have a mechanic going to give an opinion. Sucks purchasing cars thats not near home.

 

BMW engines have a lot worse ticking over on them , a solution was as soon as you started it up put foot on gas pedal not to strong and hold for 30secs it would clear that for a while , in my old xkr 2010 it sounded much like my last and present x351 last was the v6 supercharged 340bhp current is the 5ltr v8 510bhp after start up i let the revs die down from 1500 to 800 revs it should then sound like a sewing machine all good

 

Thank you for the insight. I'll be driving back to Tampa on Tuesday to test drive it again. I'll keep that in mind once the engine is at operating temp. The car itself seems to be in great condition. Only other issue was the B-pillar material peeling, but I plan on changing it to black suede anyway.

 

Well just drove 2 hours to test drive the car. I must say, I was impressed. I didn't expect the 3.0L to perform as well as it did. Took her on the highway and opened her up for a while.

When I was back to the dealership, I got out to listen to the engine and the loud ticking was gone! She was purring at idle. That was a relief.

I'm looking to go pick her up next Wednesday 🙏🏾 ... I'm excited 😁

 

Suggests to me that the ticking noise was lifters that tick when the engine is cold but quieten down when it is warm, with maybe some injector tick to boot.
The AJ126 is easily and relatively cheaply tuned to 450 hp, see here: https://www.velocityap.com/product/3...26-ecu-tuning/
Best bang for your buck you can get for this engine, really wakes it up especially if you started with the 340 PS version, and dead reliable to boot.

 

I was just happy to hear it go away. That was the only thing keeping me from purchasing it.
Whoaa! 😲 I have not heard about that tune. Thats a major increase for the price. I'm even more excited now. I'll be looking into that for sure. I appreciate the suggestion.

 

Maybe it's the purge valve working there at idle

 

Meanmugga, I drive a V6 RWD XJ. The RWD is a bit quicker than the AWD. Glad you liked it and were pleasantly surprised. Me too. These AJ 126 engines do clatter when started up. I thought that tick was a bit too loud, though. However, if it went away, great. I would ask the dealer if they put the correct oil in that engine. (would they tell you anyway?) Not that they wouldn't put the right oil in, but I have seen cases of substitute oil sitting on the parts counter that dealers use if they run out. The spec oil is designed uniquely for these engines because they are different and anything else might effect those tiny hydraulic controlling orifices that require it. My two cents.

 

I think the phone made it sound worse than in person. I will enquire about the oil. What weight is recommended?
I go back there in 2 days to finalize it.

 

Meanmugga, As you will read in many threads of this forum, the oil that meets Jaguar and Land Rover STJLR.51.5122 oil specification is a big deal. And you don't just go out and pick up any old oil that has the weight. There are only 3 or 4 oil brands that meet that spec as the learned gentlemen contributing to this forum can tell you about. The oil that your dealer should have put in your vehicle is Castrol EDGE Professional EC 0W-20 that they purchase in bulk. If you buy an individual quart somewhere or some shop gives you an oil change make sure the back of the bottle says it adheres to that JLR spec and not just 0W-20 weight..

 

That was very informative. I really appreciate the insight! I'll be sure to do an oil change soon as I get it, just to be certain.

 

Why you should only use Castrol Edge WSS-m2c925A (5w-20) or STJLR51.5122 ((0w-20) new spec)

Posted by Member “Queen and Country” from the UK on the F-Type Forum 02-22-2019



“Jaguar has a Patent on the cam mechanism that not a lot of folks know about. It even licenses this technology to Ford.
https://patents.google.com/patent/US7841310B2/en
Basically if you open an engine from a regular car or even previous Jaguar's, you will find that oil naturally cooks on to many surfaces.
But it does not matter. These engines are fairly low tech when it comes to oil.

Your Jaguar engine get amazing performance (low end torque) by doing things with oil that no other manufacturer does.
It’s like a Swiss watch of delicate parts. The patent above is for a small pin that slides in and out. Oil moves this pin. No other engine in the world other than JLR and Ford have it.
What do you think will happen if you use oil that cooks quickly (becomes coke). Where after you turn the engine off you have heat soak.

Your engine is not built the same as other engines.
It needs just 3 things from the oil.
1. Good cleaning abilities
2. Ability to clean after long term use.
3. Not leave too much deposit.
Now you can become an engineer and figure out the perfect oil, or just use the one their engineers already blended. (WSS-m2c925A)”



Also posted by Q and C



“I can explain it in a simple way.


In other cars oil is used for lubrication, cleaning and cooling only.
In our cars it’s also used for controlling the timing of the engine.”



Lastly, in the owner’s manual it reads “Castrol is "recommended" oil. WSS-m2c925A or STJLR51.5122 is the REQUIRED spec oil.

 

Meanmugga, the next thing you should check is the maintenance record. Check if the water pump has been replaced. On average, from reading posts on this forum, I can say that the water pump typically fails somewhere between 30K to 50K miles. There are exceptions. So, if you do not see a water pump replacement in the records, I would take a careful look for any potential leak coming from the front of the water pump. Alternatively, open the hood and see if you smell coolant. If you do, report that to the dealer. I didn't see anything that said this was a Certified Pre- Owned car with any warranty. Some have been lucky to have the failure occur during a warrantee period. If not, I paid $871 to get it replaced. It's far more costly at a Jag Dealer. Also, the cooling system plastic pipes are notoriously prone to failure. So, see if there has been replacement. One more important thing. If your temperature gauge goes up or you see coolant, do not drive the car at all. Shut it down immediately and get a tow truck. Do not assume you can make it on a hot engine.

 

Good Luck with the tick issue. I had a similar issue , which now , almost 2000 miles later has still not been resolved. Please refer to my original post of June
and the various suggestions that Forum members posted. They are all listed under my sign in GPKTWO

Good luck with your tick
gpk