Hey guys I am thinking to change the gear oil for the car 2012 XJL 5.0 6speed . I tried to download the guide but the link is not working can someone please guide me to the right direction or procedure to change the gear oil. Which oil is recommended and how much I should put

 

Also if you guys can tell me the torque specs for the filers bolts

 

Gear oil for what - the transmission - if so then only the ZF Lifeguard 6 is recommended in my experience and not the Shell item listed by Jaguar (I trust the manufacturer of the transmission over the installer) - filler bolts ?? the differential fill and drain are 27NM the oil for vehicles without supercharger Castrol SAF XO (75W 90), vehicles with supercharger Castrol BOT 720 (75W 90).

You should not consider replacing transmission fluid without replacing the filter / pan.

 

I am planning to change it with the filter and pan. How much liters of oil does it takes and what's the correct procedure to do it.

 

Drain old, remove and throw away pan, you would be wise to replace the connector sleeve and all bolts - takes 7 litres officially though you may not get that much in.

I would strongly recommend that you replace a number of seals while you are in there see here >> Bridge Seal, body seals and Sleeve

Drain plug and pan bolts are 8NM

 

Got it. Just want to be sure again thank you for your response. Just wanted to ask if you can point me in right direction so the drain plug will be at the bottom and refill will be at the side. Is there specific way that I should refill. Or just change pan seals and do the refil straight

 

Side and bottom yes - the plug on the side is a pig to get to and even worse to get oil into - I have a container that I can pressurise to pump oil in >> Oil dispenser.

This site shows the location quite well of the filler >> HP26 Fluid

I would drain, sort out all the seals and such then refill after replacing the pan unless you are feeling really confident. confiI have been known to fill and drain using the oil cooler lines using the engine to both pump out and draw in clean fluid ... very risky though.

 

Thank you so much

 

Gear oil , filter and pan is changed, now it is worse then before I feel jerk while stopping the car when it change from 2nd to 1st gear, when I floor the accelerator the car feels heavy while moving it opens up after 4 or 5 rpm

I also notice that car is like driving itself on higher rpm. I have to brake to bring it lower then 1.5 rpm on highway or any road it stay like between 1 and 1.5 rpm feels like it driving itself

Also I was only able to put 6liters as oil in it.


so I don't know I followed the process but seems like something is off

 

It might be that there are no issues in transmission at all. By your notes for sympthons i would look an airleak from engine intake system:
Lean mixture causes revs to stay high, no pulling power and uneven idle....

 

Yes I was also thinking the same. Where should I star looking for the leaks

 

What is the tickover like when you start the car and when it is warmed up when standing in park or neutral. You really don't want to be seeing an idle speed above 700rpm when selecting drive, typical for the 5.0 would be 650rpm.

If you had an air leak I would expect the engine light (known in the trade as the money light) to be illuminated. Plenty of places on these to leak air especially at the back of the engine, you need to check the fuel trims with a diagnostic tool. A quick and dirty check is to remove the plastic engine cover, run the engine, get it warmed up, then spray some brake clean in a targetted manner near the back of the engine and at the intake manifolds and plumbing - don't go mad this stuff likes to burn. If you hit a spot where there is a leak the rpm will briefly rise.

Getting 6 litres in the transmission too is quite a bit - typical for a service is between 4.5 and 5.5 litres (but typical kits come with 7 just in case) - hope you checked the level correctly and at the correct temperature - should just about overflow the filler at around 35°C and that is after spending 3 seconds in R and D position on the gear select, you can only see the transmission temperature with a diagnostic tool, using an infra red thermometer on the case is not recommended. Overfilling is as bad as under filling.

 

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Thank you all. I just forgot to mention something that happened today. So after the oil change and all. The car on and parked all of a sudden I heard and saw coolent boiling flowing out out of the reservoir.

Question hot temperatures can lead to performance issues. If yes

Can I know the right way to bleed the cooling system

I just don't know I guess it was mistake to open the cap of reservoir.

 

...

 

You still have not told us if you filled the transmission properly?
It is not easy and the temperature is critical.
You can't go by how many quarts. Improper fluid level can cause many problems.

Note that Lifeguard6 and Mercon SP are exactly the same fluid made by the same refinery. The Mercon is colored red. I know many have not been able to find the Mercon outside the US so that may not be of any use to you?

Since your having coolant issues and your car is a 2012 it's just about time for coolant replacement anyway. Maybe swap it out?
Good that you replaced the cap but don't neglect basic coolant changes.
As you know the water pump and plastic cooling pipes are a known problem on the XJ.
.
.
.

 

Ok so the process I followed for the trans fluid change

Remove the old oil from drain plug. Put new filter and pan. Add the oil from side inlet till it drops from it. Closed the inlet softly lift the car. Drive it for few mints forwards and few seconds in reverse. Didn't went through the gear changes. Open the inlet while engine is running and gear is in park position put more oil till I see it dripping.

Now today I changed the coolent reservoir cap because it was leaking from there when it gets hot till now coolent level is stable.

Did the transmission module reset but I don't have jaguar scanner so did it by universal scanner tool so driving right after the reset it feels like gears are not changing car takes time to think which gear to put so yeah pretty much no idea how to fix the rough jerking issue from 2nd gear to 1st one

I asked a friend of mine he said you should do it by SSD or something and when you will reset you will feel the celnoids are clicking and you hear transmission doing some thing.

However I don't know where to buy SSD tool. He said sometimes it gets better by oil change or by reseting the transmission module.

Other things broke on the car today the sunroof shade is not closing and motor is making sounds like the teeths are broken or not attached to it any more.

 

One question - did you have problems before you changed the transmission oil - what made you perform this task ?

SDD is jaguar symptom driven diagnostics, needs a laptop, E-Bay is a good place to start but there is a lot of junk - try to get at least version 1.57 and you will be fine.

Harsh shifts is either overfilled or you likely have seal issues, resetting the transmission module requires a retraining process to be followed or driving a few hundred miles. The seals I mentioned previously between the valve body and the transmission fail over time then the pressures in the transmission are all wrong and clutches either drag or don't engage properly because oil doesn't get to where it needs to, the bridge seal in particular is a problem but there are 4 others, although many don't these should be considered as part of a full service because when these seals start to leak the transmission dies soon after because the clutches burn up because the clutches don't get fully release or applied and drag/slip. SDD can show live values from the valves on the valve block, if the numbers are too high that indicates a leak at these seals - the valves are not solenoids they are PWM variuable and regulate pressure.

The advice is good - get SDD and start researching how to use it, do some research on the ZF HP26 transmission - it doesn't matter which car is listed, many cars use this transmission.

Sunroof shade common issue - pain in the butt to fix but not impossible

Edit : Did a quick Google - this may be an interesting read 6HP26 Transmission

 

Car had this trans issue from the day one and you know like most us think a simple oil change will fix it. So yeah bought it like that. I am sure that the seals needs to be changed it is like getting alot. I believe I will try to drive it for a while before I change and service it again maybe it will get better by the time.

I was thinking about doing complete trans flush but my friend advised against it.

So getting use to it will see next week

 

I believe that you should be looking for a good second hand tranny, you don't know how long it has been bad and it may already be too late, drive these transmissions too long with bad seals and new seals will not help - best to replace the seals before they reach this point.

The trans flush thing is just internet myth. If a flush kills a transmission it was dead already and it is the new fluid cleaning out the sludge from the worn locations that finishes it off. This is why you never etver listen to anyone that says 'but it is filled for life' - they are not, 'filled for life' is the transmission life not the car knowing full well it will be out of warranty when it takes a dump on you.

I don't know what currency you use but just parts alone to rebuild one of these transmissions is well over £1000 in UK money - that includes no labour and no oil.

For what it is worth auto transmission faults are rarely fixed by an oil change.