I am wanting to get some coolant in order to start disassembly to find the source of the leak. Owner's manual says coolant (which is orange in the car at present) calls for specification WSS M97B44, which is apparently a Ford specification.

I went to Autozone and they have 8 different color antifreeze on display. Prestone Dexcool is orange, but does not list WSS M 97B44. The only coolant on display that lists Jaguar (but is not WSS M97B44) is Blue. After doing a little online research I am more confused.

What do you recommend as the appropriate coolant for 2014 Jags?

 

It's Dexcool. Jaguar has used that for a number of years now.
See attached Valvoline spec sheet. It does meet the Ford spec.
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I am having trouble disconnecting the coolant lines at the intercooler. The ribbed part does not slide, nor does it seem to squeeze. There is a similar ribbed part on the underside. There must me a secret as I can't get them to release. What am i doing wrong?

 

I assume that this is the thermostat housing?

 

push in a little, then squeeze, then pull. It’s a pain.

 

correct

 

If your in that deep consider replacing the rear water manifold too. It's plastic and seems to last longer than the front stuff but it's hard to get to unless the SC is removed.
I did not see it listed but has your water pump been replaced with the latest version?
You want #AJ813909. If not your in there I would change it. That was one of only 2 failures I have had with my 2014.
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this was a pain for me too on my xfr. I just used some push pin pliers to push down to be able to get These off. I’m wondering if these lines can be done with fuel line disconnect tools also.

 

Oxidizer2K;

Who makes the pliers, is there a proper name?, where did you buy them? I looked at Autozone, Advance Auto and Lowes and showed the photo to sales personnel with no luck.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/push-p...ers-63700.html

Also there’s usually a 20 percent off coupon for harbor freight that you can use.

 

Clubairth1, It should be the latest water pump. I had a local shop do the work after amassing the parts in August. It continued to leak. I did not want to bring the car back to them. So I amassed everything but the water pump and am doing the job myself so I can see where they screwed up.

 

Oxidizer2K, thank you for the info for the pliers. I went to Harbor Freight, the pliers made by Pittsburg were in stock. Came to $9.75 with sales tax. They worked great.

All, this is what the fittings look like with the coolant lines disconnected.

 

The Torx bolts securing the intercooler lid are Torx 40. Some secondary clamps were Torx 27. Four hex head bolts on top of lid are 10 mm. You have to remove a bracket for what appeared to be a heater valve (?) to get access to three additional Torx bolts along the rear. Getting the lid out was a pain. There is a rigid steel tube at the front that interfered with the clearance. I did not remove it. The rigid line connects to the Air Conditioning Compressor. This photo shows the underside of the lid with the intercoolers attached.

 

there were three Torx 40 bolts attaching each intake manifold to the supercharger and another four hex head bolts securing the intake manifold to the cylinder head on each side. Put a rag or shop towel in each intake port incase you drop something. I expected the manifolds to now come out, but they seem like they are still attached. Anyone know if there are additional fasteners that I am not seeing? I also removed the plastic cowl thinking it would give more room at the rear of the engine, but as you can see, I would have to remove the vertical pieces to get any additional room. In the end, it was not necessary.

 

I also noticed that the dry film coating on the impeller rotor is showing wear at 57,000 miles.

 

Mostly normal but check for rear bearing play. The coating is to fill imperfections and tighten the tolerances it it’s too tight it will come
off. Do the solid coupler mod and toss the spring loaded one.

I used a large crow bar at a very specific point under the supercharger with enough leverage it will pop from the steel sleeve guide boss that is holding it in place.

Take off the throttle body to get to a good place for prying.

 

mike, I had to use an engine support bar to help me lift the supercharger off. There was another thread that helped me with this process but Here’s a link to my thread.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...oupler-241262/


also, that rigid tube is a fuel line. I removed it to make it easier. I think i used a 17mm wrench to do it.

 

Oxidizer2K, thank you for the link to supercharger coupler replacement and mention of use of the engine support bar. Hidden in the video for the range rover coupler replacement in your thread was reference to another bolt I had not found. I am guessing that you did the same as the video and left the two intake manifolds bolted to the supercharger? The independent shop told me about the coupling having wear and I got one of the solid ones to replace it, so that was done.

 

If I’m understanding you correctly, the bolt you are referring to from the video is at the bottom of the supercharger. Once you are able to lift the supercharger up, you will have access to that bolt. The bolt will need to be loosened to be able to separate the supercharger from the intake portion to access one of the bolts for the supercharger snout.

There should be 4 bolts on each side of the supercharger. If you’ve taken those off, try using something to pry off the supercharger. But be careful not to break any tubing under the supercharger. I tried to use something but mine would not come off and that’s why I went with the engine support bar.

 

Since you are replacing the coupling getting the snout off the SC can be a pain. Jaguar built in a spot to pry the SC snout off. It's hard to see and this picture is from underneath.
No gasket just some really strong sealant was used.




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