Just stepped up from my 87 XJ6 to a 2012 XJL 5.0 Non SC. I have seen many threads talking about engine oil. Other than purchasing the Castrol SLX Professional from the dealership, I see a requirement where the spec WSS-M2C925A is called for. Other threads say not to use over-the-counter Castrol Edge (unless in an emergency). Castrol Edge and the Castrol Edge Titamium BOTH say on the container they meet the WSS-M2C925A specifications.

So, someone please tell me the straight scoop.

Thanks.

 

If an oil meets both the required spec and viscosity, you're all set. It's that simple.

 

Steven, when it comes to oil specs, it is simply a list of requirements that the oil has to meet to be called something. In the older days, a simple test of how well the oil flowed through an orifice was about all that was required (this orifice test is what determines the viscosity of an oil). But, as more types of oils are created and engines have more stringent requirements, you get longer lists of what the oil has to meet. As long as the oil bottle says that it meets said requirement, then it should be just fine. The trick is that when a new car comes out and has a new requirement for the oil, the oil companies are trying to catch up and figure out if their oil will meet that requirement. Once the testing is done, then they can add the requirement to their bottles. Only in a very limited circumstance will a bottle have it listed from the beginning (in the case of Castol working directly with Jaguar and the design of the new engine). Even then, not all their oils will be tested until after the production of the engine and its release.

 

Thanks for your response. This makes sense. It was very perplexing that after four years no one had an over-the-counter oil that met the specs. There still appears to be a varied level of blends from Castrol that meet the minimum specs. But they are available.

 

Hi, I was in the same boat as you last week, but fortunately I work part time at a motor factor shop. I rang our supplier and asked the difference between the Castol Edge Professional C1 with Titanium strength technology and the retail stuff. I was told it was the same! However it gives the dealer a lot more cred to have the Professional bit stamped on the label and probably licence to charge twice as much for it as other outlets. See my post on Servicing XJ by Indie. I would do mine usually but am still banged up after someone smashed into the rear of my Mercedes CLS, writing it off. So I have to farm it out this time as I want to make sure everything I as it should be and up to my standard. Hope this eases your mind and your pocket
Having said that in the US the specs may be different but the standards/and reasoning will still be the same.

 

ArtyH. Thanks for the reply. Did the DIY oil and filter change a few days ago. relatively issue-free. If sure would be helpful if the jaguarforum had a DIY section to refer to easily.

Steve

 

There is a How To. If you wish to add to it and it's locked, ask a moderator.

 

It would be helpful if you gave an account of the way you did the change. As there are two ways we would like to know which route you chose and why, and how it went.
A mod may then evaluate the post and put it in the How To section, if it is O.K.
Many thanks,
ArtyH

 

ArtyH, I can give a little bit of insight on atleast one of the methods. Call me old school, I pulled the underneath pan, exposed the drain plug and did it the old fashion way of letting the oil drain out the bottom. Things are pretty much as you would expect if you have done an oil change. The 2 oddities of the oil change though are that the oil filter change (atleast on a 5.0L motor) is on the top of the engine, vice down low on the engine. This is nice in that it makes it easy to access as it is mounted in a very easy to access area. But, this also has the down side of it takes a special filter which makes the change a bit more expensive. The other oddity is that you have to remove the aerodynamic plate on the underside of the car. You will need a 10mm wrench for 2 nuts (directly between the front wheels) and you will also need a T25 (?) torx bit for all the other fasteners (3 across the front in a recess, 2 more just behind the 3 recessed ones, then you have 2 on each side to the frame at the point just behind the front wheels, and finally you have 3 bolts on each side tucked up on the tranny that are not obvious as they are 6"/15cm up from the underside of the car).

I have access to pneumatics. So, I use my air ratchet and things spin off pretty fast. You will need a 6"/15cm extension to get to the bolts on the tranny. You will probably also need a short extension (2"/5cm) for the 2 nuts as they are recessed slightly. Granted, a deep well socket is long enough to get at these too.

PUtting things back together isn't difficult at all. I normally slide the plate back in on the front edge as it is tucked in under/behind the plate going under the radiator. You install the initial bolts there and then you can work your way back, slowly raising the aero plate back into place.