Took some pictures while I had the car in the shop looks like I have an oil leak and some parts don't look good at all

 

Appears to be corrosion caused by road salt.

One known oil leak is from the vacuum pump on the front of the engine shown in the bottom photo.

 

Yeah that is where it looked like it was leaking from I could see drops of oil on the vacuum pump




Looks like an easy repair I will just replace the gaskets because this is an expensive part

 

With all that rust under a 21st century car I wouldn't be surprised if it had been unloaded after a coastal flood.

 

Actually looks normal for a 9 year old Canadian car we have a 2017 Nissan Pathfinder that looks the same
The amount of salt they use on the roads here is crazy sometimes the roads and cars look white because of all the salt

 

Understood. That must be one effective way to keep only newer daily driver cars on the road then.
The part number for the seal for the vacuum pump is C2D3771.
There are 2 Torx screws that secure the pump to the engine, so not too hard to replace - BUT you need to drain at least some of the engine oil before removing the pump or it'll pour out.
And look closely at which 2 screws you remove, because the other 2 similar screws hold the cover on the pump. If you take the cover off you'll have to reassemble the pump.

If you do a SEARCH in the forum for the part number or the word vacuum, you'll find previous posts with details including descriptions of the leak.

 

Salt are used on roads on here too in wintertime. In fact its even worse: They spread saltwater to the roads to make it stick to the road (and cars)
ACF-50 is quite good stuff for underneath. Check this: https://acf50.co.uk/ Protect brakes and exhaust parts. Dont spray it in closed space or to the hot surfaces.
(hint: warm the bottle before you use it by sinking it warm water bucket for about 30min. It penetrate better when its warm. You can use brush or sponce as well)
Ohh, yes: Protect the floor by carboard of plastic sheet. Its quite slippery stuff and wifey are not extremely happy when it ends inhouse on shoes...

 

If your car is an X351 like mine, I would suggest you fix this quickly, the oil from my vacuum pump dripped down on to the alternator and shorted it out. A simple oil fix
wound up costing me $3000+ for a new alternator as well as a new vacuum pump.

GPK

 

I ordered this off of Amazon

RKX Vacuum Pump Rebuild Seal Kit Compatible with Jaguar and Land Rover 5.0L V8 3.0L V6 LR4 RR (V.2)

 

It's too late to spray the rusted parts No?

 

Back in my very poor college days, my car was starting to rust like this, so I got a house paint brush and a huge bucket of thick axle grease and painted the entire undercarriage. It actually stopped the rust, and the coating stayed there a long time.

I don't have to worry about rust in Houston, but from everything I have read, these spray on undercoating products aren't great.

 

No, the ACF-50 penetrates thru the rust and make its magic. (read more from the link)
Its good stuff for the sunroof rails as well. Got rid of all noises when i used this to the rusty bit of sunroof rails. (rust have been stayed out)

 

Anyway, back to the oil leak.

My wife's 2017 F-Pace started leaking from the vacuum pump about 6 months ago. I bought the seal kit and did the job at the same time I did an oil change. Total time was about 1 hour.

Thinking ahead, and even though they didn't need it, I bought two more kits for the x351's ('12&'18). I did those over the winter (during oil changes), again about an hour...perhaps slightly less when you know what you are doing. Most of the time is consumed cleaning off the crud and removing the under-tray panels.

My only bits of advice, for what is actually a really simple job are;

1. Clean off all the old crap BEFORE you start. It helps stopping crud between the seals....and will help you identify if the fix worked.
2. Don't just use the engine to pump O ring. Take your time and replace all the parts in the kik. (There are videos on-line).
3. Use a mini torque wrench when you put everything back together, the torque settings are critical when you are dealing with just two bolts!

Mini torque wrenches are super cheap...if you only use it once you'll have saved $1200 at the dealer!

wombat

 

I don't understand # 2

"Don't just use the engine to pump O ring. Take your time and replace all the parts in the kik. (There are videos on-line)."

 

Sorry,

There is a distinct possibility that way too much gin was involved in the post!

To clarify;

The kit sold by RKX has more than one O ring, in fact one of the is kind of an ice cream cone shape and that's the one that fits between the engine block and the pump. Once you have the pump off the car it's really easy to take the pump apart and replace all the seals supplied in the kit.

The RKX website has 'How to' videos

I hope that makes more sense? Hic

wombat

 

My alternator does not look good how hard is it to change?

 

Look at how dirty this Vacuum pump was due to the oil leak took me 40 mins to clean and install new gaskets

 

I just did mine again, on my 2nd engine. It was only a matter of time, this time at 80k miles instead of 60k.
It's a pain in the butt, I need to do a deep cleaning of my engine bay.

 

What happened to your first engine?

 

I was running on 2 quarts of oil, and lost bank 1 cylinder 4 - I was consuming oil I imagine via a valve cover gasket leak or some blow by. My dad passed away that year and I was too busy to check my oil consistently.
It seized in traffic as I was slowing to a stop. There was no oil pressure light coming on before this happened to me, by the way. I noticed some very light tapping noises on the top end that reminded me of the supercharger rattle, pulled over to check it out and it literally seized then and there.

I dropped in a replacement engine from a junkyard for $14k parts and labor. The only regret I have is not taking the time to source a remanned TAPA engine, it would have saved me maintenance costs in the long run and offered much more drive life.