I have a 2011 XJ Supersport, 5.0L engine, 112K miles... a couple days ago on a routine drive, I received engine management messages, flashing check engine light, and very noticeable misfire in engine. I limped back home and noticed a strong smell of fuel when I got out of the vehicle... I looked under the hood, did not see any noticeable wet areas or fuel leaks... I looked under the vehicle and saw some dripping just below the driver seat area. I also ran my scanner for codes, misfire codes present for all cylinders on the left bank, and also a P0087 for low fuel pressure...Today I raised the vehicle and looked thinking I surely have a fuel line leaking somewhere, but the only wet area was on my exhaust pipe at the seam where it connects to the catalytic converter pipe... I started the engine , and lo and behold, fuel began coming out around that seam! I am guessing I must have a bad fuel injector maybe stuck open on the left bank? Any other possible causes? I can't think of any other reason raw fuel would make it into my exhaust...Thoughts?

Thanks...James

 

james, from what you are describing, sounds a lot like what happened to me. In my case, #2 fuel injector failed and it was causing exactly what you are seeing. So, it is looking like you are going to need some work done on your fuel injectors to at a minimum figure out which fuel injector is failed and get that replaced. In my case, I bit the bullet and replaced all 8 as is recommended. Granted, that was a $2500 bill tyo have a shop do it.

 

Happened to me as well, I went into shop for valve cover replacement, and injector re-seal. Shop put it all back together and had misfires on 3 injectors and was dumping fuel. Happens to some F type owners as well, it seems to be the age of injectors and the injectors themselves are quite sensitive. FCP Euro has a full set for less than OE, otherwise yea you're looknig at probably $2.5k lol

 

Thanks all for the confirmation, I visited with a local indie repair shop mechanic yesterday, he confirmed the same diagnosis as well... I saw on some related threads about replacing the fuel rail also, but I didnt follow as to why? Seems once you have it off, I could clean it with some B12 Chemtool or carb cleaner and high pressure air nozzle ... it's just tubing once it's off the injectors, correct? Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something... I will tackle this job myself most likely in a couple weeks, I'll report back when I'm done...thanks again all!

James

 

Note: Change your engine oil as well, because you will have lot of gasoline went thru piston rings to the oilsump.

 

Yup, planning to do that also...that sucks, I just had it changed a couple months back

 

Update - I got the left bank taken care of today - new injectors, spark plugs (112K miles, never have been changed), and new coils... changed oil and filter too... lots of smoke on initial start, but cleared up after 5 mins or so, and running smooth again... will get the right side done in the next couple of weeks as time permits... thanks all for the advice!!!

 

Another update - I drove "Miss Kitty" today, got a check engine light and restricted performance message again, but engine is still running smooth... got home and hooked up scanner, I have 2 codes - a P0444 which I am betting is an emissions related line somewhere I didn't get reconnected properly, the other code is a P2601, which sounds a lot more serious and related to the intercooler for the turbo... any thoughts? Is this something that could be residual and just needs time to clear from the injector failure, or do I have another new problem to deal with?

Thanks...James

 

No turbo? Super Sport 5.0L V-8 came with a belt driven SC?
If you erase the codes do they come back?

Do some research as P2601 looks like your IC pump is dead? Can you check it? On the early cars like yours it should run anytime the key is on so without the engine running you might be able to hear it. Look at the passenger side of the engine at the front of the radiator for the IC pump.

P0444 is an EVAP code so do some searchers on that number. There are several causes and fixes depending on what you find. Some simple and some not!
.
.
.

 

Thanks Clubairth1… I did some additional checking this AM… if I erase the codes, the 444 comes right back… I drove it about 8 miles to coffee shop this morning, so far restricted mode hasn’t come on today… I’ll see if I can find the IC pump when I get back home… I did check the IC pump fuse last night , it is good … would the canister purge valve go bad as a result of the fuel dumping from the bad injectors that I replaced?

 

Appears I may have solved both issues, a little embarrassed to say...when I started researching the canister purge valve and saw a picture of it, I realized it was a part I had unplugged whilst I was working on that left bank... while I had gotten the hoses plugged back in and the valve re-anchored to its brace, I had neglected to hook back up the electric connector, it had gotten situated underneath the coil and injector connectors somehow, and i just overlooked it... I reconnected it, and appears all is well.... I'm taking it on a 40 mile drive today, will see how it goes...

 

Don't be embarrassed and at least you admitted it! An easy fix is always much appreciated! I will take luck over skill ANY day!

Depending on how hot it is outside the IC pump failure will put the car in restricted mode. If it's cold out and you don't push the car you might never see this until summer or other hot conditions. If replacing IC pumps some of us upgrade to a bigger hi volume pump. Does it help? Well it should but I have no numbers to back this up.

Common upgrade is called the Bosch 010 pump. Stock on some MB cars and available all over and I usually can find one cheaper than I can find the Jaguar part. Here is the complete part number - BOSCH 0392022010 . They are around $180 on Amazon or EBay. I think Rock Auto might be the cheapest.

We have had multiple threads on installing this and it's not a straight swap but close. I used the MB electrical plug too so it all looks pretty factory.

A comment? Be aware that most of the IC pumps are just 2 wires and it's running anytime the engine is BUT starting around 2017 or so Jaguar changed the IC pump to run at variable speeds depending on what the ECM called for. This means you "might" run across an IC pump with 3 wires and NOT 2 as these later pumps are PWM driven. They don't interchange and the 3 wire IC pumps are also physically different so the mounting stuff won't work either.

Since you have a 2011 you can ignore all that!

I would say the purge valve and the injector failures are unrelated. At least I have not seen one cause the other.
.
.
.

 

Thanks club! About 8 miles into my drive this AM, restricted performance came back… I was able to complete the trip with no issues other than that… I checked codes again when I got home, 2601 is only thing showing… so sounds like I’ll be replacing that IC pump unfortunately…taking a break for a couple days, stay tuned… and thanks again Club!

 

Yes I "think" you do have a failed IC pump. Good troubleshooting as that is always the basis for a successful repair.
As you saw the car pretty well protects itself when the IC pump fails by putting the car in restricted mode to prevent engine damage.

I find removing the front bumper cover makes working on the IC and IC pump a breeze. It's very simple and quick to remove the front bumper cover. But do use 2 people so you don't scratch the paint getting it off and on as it's a BIG piece of plastic!
.
.
.

 

Good to change the head light bulbs same go, because you are half way there when bumber cover are off. Type of the bulbs are D3S.
In age they get dimmer.

 

Very good point Vasara and one that I forgot!
.
.
.

 

One question, any source / advice / part number for the MB wiring connector for the IC pump? Can I get that on Amazon as well?

Thanks…James

 

Yes a few simple searches will find it?
Here is a big thread I used when I did the IC pump upgrade.
In that thread are the MB pigtail part numbers with prices and where people purchased them from.
IC Pump Upgrade
.
.
.

 

Thanks! I found it and also found a source on EBay for them… pump is $137 on Amazon… will tackle this later this week hopefully…

I’ll up date this thread once I get the parts and proceed with the repair/ upgrade..

thanks again!!! James

 

Good deal!
Hope to see some pictures too?
.
.
.