The top strut mounts on my 2014 XJ Supercharged 5.0 have disintegrated. Started with the dashboard squeak and the orange rubber fragments at the top. I have bought a pair of struts and am at the stage of trying to remove the struts. I know that some advocate just replacing the top mount, but after watching a few videos, I decided not to risk like and limb when the car has about 70,000 miles on it. I found one You Tube video, but it was in hindu. There is another video on the process, but it would not load.

What I am looking for some guidance on how to remove the struts after removing the four top nuts and the bottom Torx 60 bolt. I tried a few positions, there is not enough clearance. Before tearing the suspension apart, I thought that I would ask for guidance from those of you that have removed front struts before.

 

I wish I could recall the details, but I know that when I replaced the upper control arms I found it was easier than I expected to remove the strut.
I only recall that I unbolted enough things that the lower control arms went low enough to give me room to get it out pretty easily.
I know I had a shop replace the top mounts when I needed it because it seemed to be a tough job, but after replacing the upper control arms, I think I'll do it next time & when I replace the struts.

 

The x351 Service and repair manual tell that you need to disconnect upper arm balljoint from wheek knuckle. Then you have room to remove strut.

 

thanks. Does the manual give the torque specs on the bolts involved? I tried, but was not sucessful in downloading the manual.

 

That's what it was.
And considering that, you have to remove a few other things to get to the upper control arms..
Coolant tank (moved out of the way anyway) and acoustic bulkhead on one side. I think the passenger side was easier.

 

One thing to help is to remove the sway bar mounting on the side your working on. I also use a 6' pry bar to pry the lower control arm down enough to get the strut/spring assembly out of the car. But removing the sway bar makes things move better. That was suggested me by another forum member after I had changed the upper mounts and said how hard it was to get the strut/spring assembly out.

Note that changing the upper strut mount is WAY easier than the struts. You remove the strut and spring as an assembly from the car then swap the upper mount. Don't need to fight the spring or remove it. Also no need for a front end alignment either.
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Here:
Upper arm to the wheel knuckle nut: 90 Nm (66 lb.ft).
Spring assembly to the lower arm screw: 175 Nm (129 lb.ft).
Spring assembly to body (4 nuts) 27 Nm (20 lb.ft).
If you release the spring from strut, the top nut: 27 Nm (20 lb.ft).

 

Vasara, Thank you for the torque values.

 

Clubairth1, thank you for suggesting disconnection of the swaybar link. Doing so made removal easy.

 

Yea I got caught on that and someone very kindly suggested the sway bar trick and it does make a difference for sure!
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Do you need to compress the spring to remove the top hat/strut mount like on most cars?

 

No that's why it's so easy. The strut/spring comes out in one piece. The strut mount is separate from that assembly.
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To change the mount you need to compress the spring then remove center nut

 

Oops sorry! IanXF is right! They come out as a unit then replace the mount on the bench.
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Job Finished. I did end up using a spring compressor along with the jack to get the bottom bolt in. The upper ball joint boots are descintegrating. Anyone know the part number for the boot? I used an 18" adjustable wrench to pull the upper arm into position in order to get the nut in place.

 

I did this job on my 2013 XJL last night. My upper strut mounts looked completely fine at 120K miles, with only surface rust on the top hat and all of the articulating suspension components were still tight with no ripped boots or play in the bushings. I suspect the front suspension components were renewed under previous ownership, but I replaced the strut mounts preventatively as I am getting new tires and a front-end alignment soon.

I unbolted the lower thru-bolt on the sway bar endlink, the upper control arm, and of course the shock bolt. I did not need to use any force to remove the strut/spring assembly from the car once the upper control arm was unbolted from the steering knuckle. I did not to use any force to release the upper ball joint as it is not a captive design. I continue to be impressed by how serviceable this car is even though the engine bay is quite tight.

Remember to torque down the lower shock bolt in the "loaded" position (with the car on a 4 post lift or ramps) or you will wear out your lower control arm bushing prematurely.

 

I've been impressed too, as you say for what it is it seems to be designed to be reasonably serviceable. Of course there are many DIYers that may find it difficult to work on, but I find the X351 and it's Land Rover sibling the L322 Range Rover to be equally impressive and considerably easier considering that it's got more room to work with by nature of being an SUV compared to the X351 being a sport sedan.
When I replaced the front upper control arms on the XJ I found just what you describe - no special tools or effort to remove the shock & spring.

 

I owned a BMW with a V8 that had an oil cooler that was routed through the alternator mount bracket. When those seals inevitably leaked, they leaked at full oil pressure and would dump the entire contents of the sump on the ground within a few minutes. Replacement was a 6 hour ordeal requiring unbolting the motor mount and lifting the entire engine. That same engine also had a coolant pipe routed through the center of the engine block. The dealer replacement for those seals was an engine-out job; thankfully the aftermarket addressed it with an expandable component. The valve seals were also guaranteed to fail around 120K miles and that 12-hour job would mechanically total the car.

I haven't done any job on my Jaguar that was that nonsensical. I just wish the parts and documentation were a bit easier to find.

 

I have a 2003 Land Rover Range Rover which is the BMW-influenced design prior to the purchase of LR by Ford. That's my foray into "German engineering" and although it is has a smoother-running engine than my 2012 Range Rover, it's the prime reason I avoid German automobiles.
I find the technical information & documentation provided through JLR TOPIX to be the best and most reliable source, although I do not prefer the "pictograph" formats of the manuals. And while the local dealerships closest to me are generally not impressive and charge way over MSRP for any parts, I do have a couple of on-line suppliers that I can rely on for good prices for genuine parts as needed.

 

This is an excellent thread and I thank the OP, mikebaker3 and all contributors. It has reduced my stress re: a squeak and front shock mount disintegration - thank you! As on an X351 I have the same signs of mount disintegration at the top. So just to check before I order that would be the strut mounts at the top correct? This is the part I have found? Am I correct or am I better getting that with the strut / shock? Thanks.
https://www.britishparts.co.uk/jagua...-mount-c2p3209

The car is 11 years old, 2015, 33,000 miles, and has a nasty squeak seemingly coming from the front dash. So I'm encouraged this thread is talking about same. The squeak is getting louder yet appears to reduced somewhat when turning the wheel for right hand corners. Would I be right that is caused by the strut mount disintegration rather than the failing shocks themselves?

I have also noticed choices when seeking to replace the shocks. as all these three look different: -
https://www.britishparts.co.uk/jagua...ar-x351-xj-xjr
vs,
https://tinyurl.com/4pywfnph
(without electronic)
vs.
https://tinyurl.com/hb5e7427
(with electronic)

Which are correct front shocks, or is just ne set with the springs included? Also which X351 need "electronic". It is the 2.0 litre petrol turbo version...

EDIT - So I'm seeing the mounts are included on some of the struts which come with springs - correct? Also, how do I find out if the 2015 X351 2.0 litre has electric or non electric front struts? I am guessing, as it is such a base model, they would be the non-electric, but AI says electric but appears to be crappy sources? When I put in the VIN number it (massively) unhelpfully tells me it is a 1995 XJ6 Jaguar - Ugh !