Yesterday I was driving along the highway and the Restricted Performance check appeared and within 30 seconds the temperature arrow went up to the maximum value and a red light came on. I quickly stopped, lifted the hood - I did not notice anything suspicious. I inserted the key, started - the temperature arrow returned to its normal position and all checks disappeared. I drove on. After 30-40 km, everything repeated itself. Then it was repeated in the same way after 30-40 km. Then I came home. There was nothing like this in the city. Today I went - everything is fine too. I'm guessing it's some kind of sensor ... What are the options for this situation?
I recently changed my coolant. The master drained my red and filled in the green. I read somewhere that it is wrong to pour green, but the master told me that it is better than red. What will happen to the car if you fill in the green coolant?

 

JurJul,First off, welcome to the Forums. Lots of good information here. Please stop by the New Member Section and give us a little bit about yourself and your car. We pride ourselves in being a better car group and as part of that, we like to get to know one another. This also gives you a chance to meet those that make this place what it is.

As for your question, what year and make car are we talking about here? Based on the picture that you have included, it would appear that you have gotten the wrong section. Where you posted is for 2011-2019 XJs (aka, X351's). I would have to guess that you have a late 2000's XJ (aka, X350's). With all this being said, what you are describing sounds like you have 1 of 2 issues going on. You either have a bad sensor that is failing, driving the temp high or the wiring to the coolant temp is bad and it is failing, causing the computer to think the car is getting extremely hot. This is where you will most likely end up doing a once over of the wiring to make sure that there is no obvious issues and then replacing the temp sensor. If the problem continues, then a much more detailed look into the wiring will be needed.

 

Thermo, thank you very much for the response! Yes, I've placed the topic to wrong forum section. I have a Jaguar XJ X 350 2004 year. I would ask the forum moderator to move my topic to the relevant section. Thanks in advance.

 

Shamun, the noob here. 2003 S-Type, 3.0 with 5-spd stick.
I had reset/erase codes (O2 sensor) in the past. I recently experienced a "Restricted Performance". The engine went into what I call "system degrade" after my cousin missed a few shifts and revved and stalled it out. Some of the additional codes included coil pack issues.
First question: Can over-revving and stalling a motor with an already faulty O2 sensor kick the ECM into "Restricted Performance" mode?
Second question: Can disconnecting the battery "reset" the ECM? Would said disconnection possibly "reset the coli packs"?

 

Shamoon, for your questions, over-revving the engine will not put it into restricted performance unless you damaged an engine component in the process. So, having the restricted performance active is saying there is something wrong with your engine and at a minimum, getting codes read will be needed to have a starting point. Now, it sounds like you have done this and found that you have coil pack issues. From the sounds of things, you have a coil or two that is having issues and needs to be replaced. Hopefully the error codes that you go are indicating a specific cylinder or two. If you can list the codes, that may help us give you more specific help. But, just to be told "there are a few error codes" leaves a lot of unanswered questions for someone like me.

As for disconnecting the battery and hoping that it resets everything and makes it good, not a high probability of that working. It will get rid of possibly some error codes that will send you on a wild goose chase. But, if you have a code reader, I would say to erase the codes, take the car out for a quick spin around the block and see what codes come back. Those are the active codes that will lead you to what is your current issue.

 

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Shamoon, ok, based on the codes you listed, your problem lies with cylinder 5. So, we are now down to whether it is a spark plug or a coil issue. Cylinder #5 is the back left cylinder for you as you are standing at the front bumper, looking into the engine bay. I would say to remove the coil pack off of the spark plug, look in the well to make sure you don't have oil or water in the plug well indicating another issue. From there, pull the plug to make sure the plug looks good and if in doubt, spray it with some carb cleaner to clean it up. May want to check the gap on the plug to make sure it is where it should be. From there, put the plug back in and then find another cylinder that has a coil pack that is easy to access. Swap coil packs with that cylinder and #5. Reassemble everything and clear the codes. Now, take the car out for a short drive. I am fairly sure at this point you are going to get some codes back. Did everything stick with Cylinder #5, or did it move to the new cylinder. If it moved, then your coil pack died and you need a new one. If it stayed with the cylinder, then most likely you have a wiring issue that you are going to have to hand over hand the wiring.

Of interest, since the 3.0L of your car and the X-Type are very similar, when you pull the coil pack, 2 checks I would say to do. The first is to clean off the top of the coil pack and look at the clear coating there. Do you see what would appear to be white hair(s). If so, you have a crack in the coil, replace. Water most likely has gotten inside the coil and is raising hell with the coil. The second check is to look at the rubber boot between the coil and where the spark plug attaches. When you rub this with your thumb, do you get a lot of black dust/crumbs coming off? If yes, you will need to replace that boot (probably best to buy 6 of them as the others are probably not too far behind).

Hopefully with this help, you can get back to things working like they should. I would also recommend talking with the guys in the S-TYpe section as they may have seen this exact problem and will know exactly what is wrong.

 

Hello Thermo et al,
I decided to test out my local service shop as test. They are changing the coli packs and spark plugs. 100k mile is the recommended interval for the coli packs, so this seems about right. The radiator was causing the coolant leak so they are installing a new one. I got tired of adding "orange", so I agreed to the repair. Rough estimate for the entire repair is $2200.
I know it seems excessive, but I have heard wonderful things about "Jaguar John" from Park Place Motors Ltd in Bellevue. Is the pricing totally out of line with what I should expect to pay with another shop?

Thanks and best,
Shamoon

 

Shamoon, probably not too far outside of the realm of possibility. Part of it depends on where he gets his parts from. He gets them in bulk off of E-bay, then he is getting a good deal. If he is going through a place like the dealership for parts, then he is not making much.