Greetings and Happy Birthday for those State side.

Looking for some solace, hoping this scenario might sound familiar. Coming back from a Dr's appointment through a canyon north of L.A., went to take advantage of a passing lane, punched it and it hesitated. Not long after I got the plashing engine light. Soon after, Restricted. Was headed to my Costco to fill up as i had less than 50 to go. Stopped at a hardware store as along the way, when I noticed I went from about 40 miles till empty to 5 in less than 10 miles, and I have been successfully relying on the monitor since I got the cat. It dyed, and I smelt petrol in the cabin. The air shield underneath was wet. So, I obviously sprang a leak. Ahh but where? I will start with pre-lims, scanner and such, any suggestions as to where to start looking? BTW it's my 2012 XJL SC 5.0

thanks Lads

 

Based on your description, it would seem a ruptured fuel line or connector in the engine compartment, or if petrol is present, a stuck or broken fuel injector.

Do not operate the vehicle under conditions that cause the MIL to flash as catalyst damage is occurring.

 

So sorry to heart that, but hopefully it's just time to replace a worn out part that's served well for 13 years and (probably) many miles now.
My wife's XJ died on her a few years ago when she was a few hundred miles from home.
It was a HPFP in our case, no sign of fuel leakage related to that though.
That was a long round trip and a long day. Then I had to have the XJ brought back home so I could figure it out & fix it.

On the other hand, new cars break down too, although not often (hopefully).
Best of luck finding & fixing the problem!

 

Pulled the DTCs, got miss fire on 1 3 5 7. Low fuel. So at leased we narrowed it down to what side to start with. Any know common problems with fuel line joint failure? Does it sound like it could be a pump issue?

 

I personally haven't seen an issue with the stainless steel fuel line fittings unless they've been incorrectly fitted after being removed. Has any work recently been performed to the engine on Bank 1?

Remove the spark plugs and see if there is fuel on the pistons using a bore scope. Once the source of the issue has been determined and corrected, the engine oil must also be changed to avoid damage to the main and rod bearings.

 

CuteCat, this sounds like what I battled when I had my 2012 NA 5.0L engine. Now, mine initiated a little differently with having a water pump replaced. But, the result was the same. I had misfires on one bank, very hard starting of the engine, strong fuel smell, and a flashing check engine light. Mine ended up being a failed fuel injector. I had chased the DTC codes as I was also getting the low fuel pressure code(s). So, I initially followed that and replaced the pressure sensor and both high pressure fuel pumps. None of those parts fixed the issue (obviously).

A check that I would say to do is to start up the engine long enough that you can rev it a little bit to see if you have black smoke coming out of the tail pipes (should only take but 20 seconds of the engine running). If you are seeing black smoke, then this would almost guarantee that you have a failed fuel injector. You can do a look under the car to see if you are seeing anything leaking on the ground too. But, I would think that you would have seen that as you parked the car as the leak will most likely be delayed slightly due to the panel under the engine bay.

 

Now im worried. The smell of gas externally made me think it was external. The mention of oil change got me thinking, so I pulled a pint or so out of the sump and it looked awful thinn and unfortunately smelled of gas. I hate to ask, what do you think?

 

You should drain the oil from the sump rather than using the suction tube.

Hopefully, you won't end up getting the DTC P0420 once the vehicle has gone through an emission drive

 

CuteCat, getting a large amount of gas in the oil is a pretty good sign that you have a fuel injector problem. Obviously, you do not want to drive the car a lot in this state. Moving it from say your driveway on to a flatbed (less than 5 minutes of engine run time) will be fine.

Now, for the repair. Some shops will replace a single injector. But, I would say it is best to do all 8 so the engine runs evenly between all the cylinders. Having one cylinder have more power than the rest can cause issues later on. When I had mine done by a shop, they got me for $2500 (8 new injectors and labor and an oil change).

 

Was white smoke pouring out of the tail pipes?
.
.
.

 

White exhaust smoke indicates water in the gasoline, which probably means a blown head gasket. That can be confirmed by compression testing all cylinders and comparing the variances. Low pressure indicates a blown gasket.

 

Thankfully No smoke. But I think I've got some bigger issues, it locked up. Unless the computer is limiting the the engine from cranking, I had pulled into a parking space when I realized it was going bad, when the tow truck showed he had to pick from the rear When it got back home we dropped it on the street. My thought was to add some fuel, it had emptied the tank, and back it into the garage so I could work on it with my back side to the driveway and then close the door at the end of the day. That's when I think I may have done more damage. After adding 5 gallons I tried starting it, of course it cranked, and it cranked a little longer than I would have liked without starting. tried a couple times then it stopped cranking altogether. Should I be worried that I went from a bad injector to a catastrophic internal failure?🤔🤢☹
The absolutely crazy thing, we had this shipped from a dealer in Houston after the insurance company bought our previous 2012 XJL off us as totaled from a minor rear ender. I negotiated a 90 day Drive train warranty because I hadn't driven it. I'm 200 miles shy of going over. Again, Thank you guys for all your insights.
AFA a blown head gasket, which I've dealt with in the past, the oil is a black as my heart.

 

CuteCat, you may have a hydrolocked cylinder. That would explain why the engine will not crank. At this point, I think it is best to just put it on a tow truck, get it to a shop and let them diagnose things. The last thing you want is the warrantee people saying you are now responsible because you started to diagnose the problem and because you ........ (fill in the blank), you caused it to be worse and now your problem. What you are describing is almost text book what my car was doing once I got to the failed injector issue. The only way I could start my car was by nearly flooring the car and then it fought me the whole time.

 

If you're intending to work on the engine yourself, begin by removing the coil units and spark plugs. I you have a borescope, see if there is fuel in the cylinders before engaging the starter motor.

Next, perform a compression test. Post the results here.

 

So does this mean you're technically still under warranty? If so, don't touch the car and take it to the dealer. Don't tell them that you've touched the car or done any sort of diagnostic.

Gasoline on the external of the car makes me think you blew up the high side fuel rail pressure sensor on the left side fuel rail. That would be a very uncommon failure and doesn't explain fuel flooding the cylinders though.

 

Thanks everyone for the solace and the help with the issue. At this point I'm leaning towards the injector. I have another question but I think I'll start a new thread just incase some of you, that have answered the question posed here, might not check back in. The cat is not cranking.

 

Hey all. I'm back. Looks like the warranty wasn't worth the paper it was printed on. Spoke with a very reputable shop in L.A., he had lots of candy waiting for attention in his yard, lots of AJ126 and AJ133 and what not. But Fuel was excluded in the fine print. So I'm back to tackling this job myself. I'm approaching this job with the mindset that its just the injector and nothing internal. Time will tell. Any suggestions once I get it torn down? i.e. coolant pipes? There is kit to replace all the plastic, including water pump, any thoughts on the products from Euro-Amp? I do plan on replacing all injectors. I've been turning wrenches under that shade tree sense I was in grade school, Doing it myself is the only way I could afford to keep this beautiful ride on the road. Lots to devoured on this site, thanks in advance for all the help coming and that that has already been given.

 

Me too, I suspect that's the cat?

 

Hi CuteCat,

Be aware that there are a lot of counterfeights injectors on sale. There are few threads, where members have been purchased Bosh/Hella injectors only find out that the situtation get worse and with closer look of the markings on them showed an surprice.
Even the box can be and have all holograms etc, but somebody in supplychain have been swapped the products from the boxes.
Read this: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...15-xjr-283983/

 

The job is so miserable that you might as well expand your scope and address everything underneath the supercharger that is known to fail. I spent just over $1K on parts and materials, but this is over $10K worth of work at a dealership, so I feel like I got a bargain. You work hard for it though- I'd do valve seals on a BMW N62 twice before I do this job again.
Here is a list of what I addressed/replaced:

-valve cover gaskets
-spark plugs
-Injector teflon and fuel rail seal kits x8 C2D24387 (Injectors need to be removed for the valve covers to come off, do not buy aftermarket or used injectors. Amazon slide hammer tool is essential to remove these injectors and profile the Teflon seals correctly. I had to weld additional counterweight on the slide hammer to remove some of these injectors successfully and one of them took over 500 whacks to remove- ouch! Soak the injector bores in penetrant for 24 hours before attempting removal. Do NOT lever against the valve cover or try to pry them out at a sideways angle or you will break either the valve cover, which is plastic, or the top of the injector off the lower solenoid unit and create a bigger problem for yourself. Follow torque sequence detail in the FSM for the valve covers or you will warp them and the valve cover gaskets will leak again in short order.)
-2x new Bosch injectors #62120 I broke while removing them
-upper and lower coolant pipes in aluminum (I used the Euro AMP kit with new water pump, pipes, rear manifold, in all-aluminum components as well as several hoses and seals you'll need: https://euro-amp.com/products/10-17-...44050298601671)
-rear coolant manifold OE seals AJ811600 to replace the cheap seals the aluminum replacement comes with
-coolant line from the front of the car to the to rear manifold, this has been updated without a bracket so it's easier to install T2H3431
-Throttle body to rear manifold hose AJ813614
-Expansion tank cooling vent hose C2D6362
-Radiator drain plug Dorman 61138
-Supercharger oil 150ml
-Bosch MAP sensor #0261230295, 4-pin, on the rear of the supercharger (it is cheap and only accessible with the SC removed) check compatibility with your 2012 since I believe that year was a split between Denso and Bosch ECUs.
-Accessory belt Dayco 5060968DR and rear smooth flanged idler pulley-Autozone Duralast 231629 (requires the SC belt tensioner bracket to come off to be replaced)
-I also cleaned carbon off the intake valves with B12 chemtool spray and a brass bristle drill brush.