Thanks for the breakdown. If I'm going to get this beast back on the road, I certainly want it to go back together with the satisfaction that now the wife and I can take road trips in comfort and with a certain amount of confidence, that I did what was necessary. I stand 6'4 and she isn't much shorter. I can't find a sadan that works any better.
Also the how did you get to the valves to clean them? Through the ports?

 

Any thoughts on the fail rate of the injectors. Are they something that should be replaced, if one goes, the others follow?

 

CuteCat, it is not so much a "if one fails, the others are about to follow" (granted, probably good advice), it is more a matter of each injector flows a certain amount and when you put in a new injector, you have to code it to that cylinder. Since the others have been used, they are not necessarily flowing like they used to. So, you can possibly have 1 cylinder that is going to make more power than the others and this can lead to other issues with the motor.

 

Given the amount of labour involved, it's best to replace all the injectors and spark plugs on each cylinder bank at the same time.

 

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I will challenge that assumption. If the part numbers are the same and the injector isn't clogged, old and new injectors should flow almost exactly the same. These injectors are known to stick which is why Jaguar released a TSB recommending occasional use of BG44K fuel additive.

I only swapped in 2 new injectors when I did the job with no associated codes or sequelae. Genuine Bosch injectors are $90 apiece. I do agree that it's easier to replace all "when you're in there", but if only one injector needs replacement that's a delta of over $600. If you are a competent DIY it just depends on your risk tolerance for saving $600 versus the small risk of having to pull the blower again.

 

Intake ports are visible with the blower off and a short drill brush will easily reach the valves. I turned the crank to TDC to close the intake valves (only turn the engine the correct direction! If you spin it backwards, even a few degrees, you will de-tension your timing chain, skip teeth and add 12 hours to the job), soaked in carb cleaner and spun the drill brush to clean them off. Caked on carbon is tough and I didn't bother to get them 100% clean, but good enough for government work. At ~120K miles mine weren't that dirty, certainly not as bad as you would expect a BMW N54 to look at that mileage.

 

Well, happy to report the blower is off. My Good Night, what a sardine can. Just a brief refresher, I picked up this car as a replacement, insurance bought us this one. tough to find even in the LA market. it was shipped from Houston. I thought I was wise to look for one that had aluminum coolant replacement pipes, turns out only the front ones were done on this car, the rear is split and it looks like someone has put 10 gal of coolant in it, it looks like there is dried Florissant paint everywhere. Man I was hoping this was better cared for. What is the element behind the SC? Is it common practice to not put the 3 screws in that hold that unit back on? Also finding a lot of what seems to be loose bolts. I know I'll have actual questions but just a little tired right now
Thanks

 

Hard to say? Can you post pictures? You have enough posts now.
If the plastic split that is common and does not point to a maintenance problem as all this plastic stuff is good until it is not! Hard to say when it will fail so when should it be replaced?
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Hello again
Hopefully those with the knowledge I need will take a look at this tread again and give advise. I have pulled the plugs and without looking at the cylinders with a borescope, the #7 plug was wet. I can get ahold of a scope if I need to do more than just verify witch injector had gone. I have a compression gauge left over from the days of my 327 SS. I was able to use some copper tubing to extend the reach of the head to get a good seal on the plug hole. Please refresh the memory, I think we used to use a remote switch on the starter to check compression? In anticipation of replacing the valve cover gaskets, I puled all the connecters and the loom on both heads. I mentioned that because I'm not so sure about doing a compression test on a computer controlled engine, with all the sensors disconnected, is there a concern?
Another question, there is a module on the back of the blower, some kind of vacuum advance, trying to get an idea I looked at some utubes and saw folks pulling that before removing the blower, once out, it looks like all there was needed to let it come out together was an electric connector. Sense I have enough post to add pictures, I will.

And then this unit that attaches to the back of the SC. anyone have a name for it.

Other than the vacuum hose it wasn't mounted it was just hanging. would like to find bolts without having to go to the dealer. Also it was suggested to not use the tube to drain the oil, I don't have a lift so it's on jacks, is there a plug or do I need to get as new gasket?

Thanks in advance

 

The plastic part that split in your photos is the rear coolant/heater manifold, common for these to fail also and the aftermarket can sell you an aluminum replacement. Use the OE seals in my writeup earlier in this thread.

That black plastic hose assembly is the sound symposer, for "cosmetics" only and has nothing to do with engine performance. You'd need to block off the opening to the intake manifold with a laser cut plate if you want to fully delete it. Seriously, it makes no difference in the interior sound at all.

Do you have any reason to check the compression?

 

Why would you not use the vacuum method to change oil?
This has been gone over many times and stop listening to idiots on youtube. There is zero reason to use the drain plug. I know I have done it both ways.

Good luck on doing a proper compression check. I have done it on the 5.0L SC and it's a Bitch! I would recommend NOT doing it unless you must.
Nothing special is required and I just used the push button starter to spin the engine. Don't forget that to do a proper compression check requires that you do it twice. Once dry then add a little bit of engine oil to each cylinder and do it all again so you can see what the difference is.

Now the good thing is you most likely have no compression problems.
If your interested attached is the data sheet Jaguar has in the workshop manual that I used when I did the test.
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I agree.
Most people mix two things: On engines, what havent designed for vacuum oil change, there are an risk that some dipstick openings do not go all the way to the botton of sump: Vacuum method not nessesary recommened.
The engines, where the vacuum method is designed as inbuild service function, same (or even more) amount of oil come out than from drain plug.
All V8:s and V6, including V6 diesel, used on x351 platform are designed for vacuum oil drain and have inbuild dedicated pipe for the pump. (not sure about 2.0L 4cyl petrol?)

 

For my future reference and general education, what about the compression test would you say makes it a bitch to do?

 

AFA a compression test, Is it at all possible to blow a hole in the top of the piston w/ these high pressure injectors that fail stuck open? When these injectors go, how does the gas get into the oil? Does it blow past the rings? I asked because I had a motorcycle as a kid that someone put the wrong plug in and it burnt a hole in the piston Still learning about these injected engines. The car is up on stands, I pulled the shroud from underneath because of all the fluid, gas, that had dumped out from above as was quite wet. So I went ahead an pulled the plug on the sump. Crazy how much flowed out, it filled to overflow the oil collector tub that I have. At the risk of sounding really naïve, which is the correct direction of rotation, I fill a need to rotate it by hand. Remember it stopped cranking on me
Again thanks for the advise.

 

Hot spots and melted pistons usually occur from a lean condition or injector pintle cap obstruction. When these injectors fail stuck open you will flood the cylinder and ruin your catalytic converter quickly, the engine will struggle to run at all. After you're parked, the injector will continue to bleed into the cylinder so gas gets into the oil by seeping past the rings, and at the same time it wipes the oil film off your cylinder walls which will lead to scored bores and loss of compression over time.

 

It still amazes me how much carbon builds up inside an engine. Here are pics from the borescope. Anyone want to render a guess on which pic is the cylinder that had the stuck injector?

#1

#2

#3

#4
Again this is not a car that I've had for very long. That said, Do you think if it was better maintained with additives it would be any cleaner?

 

So as I'm getting ready to run a compression test I thought to my self, maybe because I have the scope, before I squirt a bit of oil into the cylinders, just to give friction a break, I'll take a peek in on the other bank. here's what I found.


#2

#4

#6

#8

#2

#2
Does anyone think that #2 cylinder looks like #7 is the previous post? Has anyone ever heard of two injectors going at the same time? Sorry the images are so big. Any thoughts?

 

I was getting ready to run the test and report them to you, Trusting your advice could you take at my last post?

 

None of those pictures look especially concerning but does the car ever get driven hard or is it generally babied? It may be time for the good old Italian tune-up and I would run a can of BG44K through the fuel system also.

 

@CuteCat, as others have mentioned, there doesn't appear to be anything in the photos that suggests anything other than a stuck injector.

I'm sure you're aware that when one injector fails by sticking open, the other injectors then receive less fuel.

If you already have the vehicle on jack stands, it may be best to remove the lower engine cover and use the drain plug to change the oil to make sure any fuel present is removed. Also, once the engine oil is drained, it may be wise to also see if the vacuum pump at the front RH side of the engine is leaking. There is an aftermarket kit you can use to reseal the pump if the cover isn't distorted. A new pump from a JLR dealer is in excess of 600$US. Two different types of vacuum pumps were used, just make sure you order the correct parts to reseal it. Here is a link to the reseal kit: https://www.rkxtech.com/products/rkx...-rr-superchrgd