When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
None of those pictures look especially concerning but does the car ever get driven hard or is it generally babied? It may be time for the good old Italian tune-up and I would run a can of BG44K through the fuel system also.
As mentioned earlier, the car is new to me. Babied? Not when I'm driving, I share it with the wife. Fact is I punched it doing abought 80 to get around a trash truck using a passing lane, that's when the injector went.
@CuteCat, as others have mentioned, there doesn't appear to be anything in the photos that suggests anything other than a stuck injector.
I'm sure you're aware that when one injector fails by sticking open, the other injectors then receive less fuel.
If you already have the vehicle on jack stands, it may be best to remove the lower engine cover and use the drain plug to change the oil to make sure any fuel present is removed. Also, once the engine oil is drained, it may be wise to also see if the vacuum pump at the front RH side of the engine is leaking. There is an aftermarket kit you can use to reseal the pump if the cover isn't distorted. A new pump from a JLR dealer is in excess of 600$US. Two different types of vacuum pumps were used, just make sure you order the correct parts to reseal it. Here is a link to the reseal kit: https://www.rkxtech.com/products/rkx...-rr-superchrgd
Yes sir, those are the tips I'm looking for. I got what you where saying about draining the sump with the plug. I think I pulled about 16 quarts out when I pulled the plug, that's a lot of gas. I had a jug of used oil from a previous change, so I through that back in so when I did compression test and needed to rotate the engine it wasn't dry.
So I wish I could say I'm back to say "Thank you" to all who had offered advice and to say it's back on the road. But. not the case.
IT WILL NOT CRANK.
When it first got back, I tried to move it to the garage, tow truck driver didn't want to except the risk of cracking the driveway, so it was dropped at the curb. It cranked twice, through the cycle, without starting, then the 3rd time it stop cranking before it timed out, I got a "service required" message. I will post some diagnostics tomorrow.
Let me start by saying my hope is that all had a wonderful calibration of our saviors birth. And wish all the best in the new year. That said, AUURRGGG. I might one day learn how to drive this beast. Punching it at 80 to pass a car in the #1 lane and letting trany pressure do the downshifting, as apposed manually, to leads too? Another failed injector. Or so I suspect. Drove about 30 mls afer the pass, parked for an hour, fired it up, missing. Strong smell of fuel.
P0301, 303, 305, 307
P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE
P0316 MISFIRE ON STARTUP(first 1000 revs)
P00C6 FUEL TOO LOW (cranking)
I have My diagnosis, any other thoughts?
Most certainly not just a single injector or injector related directly at all.
This does not smell like another injector just failed—it smells like a fuel control / rail pressure / sensor logic problem that causes multiple cylinders to misfire, especially after a hot soak.
P0301 / 303 / 305 / 307
All odd-bank cylinders (Bank 1 on the V8)
That immediately points away from a single injector
Injectors fail randomly, not neatly in a bank pattern.
P0300 – Random misfireECM is losing control of mixture or combustion stability
P00C6 – Fuel pressure too low during cranking
This is the smoking gun, and people underestimate it.
This means:
The actual rail pressure didn’t match the commanded pressure
ECM is blind, confused, or lied to
The strong fuel smell matters a LOT. Low reported pressure + strong fuel smell =The engine is NOT fuel-starved
That means one of three things:
Fuel pressure is actually high, but the ECM thinks it’s low
Fuel is leaking after shutdown (internal or purge-related)
Fuel trims are being driven stupid by bad sensor data
High-pressure fuel rail pressure sensor (lying)
Very common on the AJ-V8s.
If the sensor:
Under-reports pressure, ECM commands more fuel, Cylinders flood, Misfires on restart, Fuel smell everywhere.
This ALSO explains:
P00C6
P0316
Multi-cylinder same-bank misfire.
Could be purge valve stuck open or HPFP control / rail bleed-down. This is less common than the sensor, but possible: pressure drops when hot, ECM overcorrects flooding on restart.
Kinda lost here?
Back in August the car would not crank. But now a couple of months later you have been driving it?
As posted above your problems point to the injectors?
Can you give us a list of the parts that have been replaced?
I said doing a compression check is a bitch because it is complicated and access is bad. I did it out of desperation when I had an injector problem.
.
.
.
Kinda lost here?
Back in August the car would not crank. But now a couple of months later you have been driving it?
As posted above your problems point to the injectors?
Can you give us a list of the parts that have been replaced?
I said doing a compression check is a bitch because it is complicated and access is bad. I did it out of desperation when I had an injector problem.
.
.
.
So back in Aug. it was as suspected injectors. replaced two, #2 and #7. when pulled I found cylinder 7 flooded and #2 was questionable. Those two also looked like they could have been after market fake Bocsh injectors. It was running strong, until it wasn't. Also replaced cooling system w aftermarket metal.
What I find interesting is both instances occurred as a result of the same action on my part, traveling at 70-80 mph and punching it to accelerate. Is their a pressure regulator on the fuel rail? Is it possible to over pressurize the injectors and cause them to fail? FYI transmission dropped a gear (or two) when I punched it, it jump in revs.
What I find interesting is both instances occurred as a result of the same action on my part, traveling at 70-80 mph and punching it to accelerate. Is their a pressure regulator on the fuel rail? Is it possible to over pressurize the injectors and cause them to fail? FYI transmission dropped a gear (or two) when I punched it, it jump in revs.
I have spent way too much time and money not seeing the forest for the trees. Because of that, I am thinking at least seek out whether or not the problem is the fuel rail pressure sensor. There is one per fuel rail here. It is effectively the only thing that is specific each to a bank. Do you have a scanner as you are going to need to have one that can read live data. I think you said you cannot start anymore, so this may be difficult to see; however, what you are looking for is fuel rail pressure Bank 1 vs Bank 2. The challenge here is that I think this problem shows up more when the engine is HOT, but if the sensor is completely jacked, it could bee seen cold as well. If bank 1 reads low, is laggy, or spikes, etc. compared to Bank 2, that is your problem.
Yes the engine has a fuel temperature and pressure sensor on the passenger side fuel rail at the rear of the engine.
There is also a low pressure fuel pump in the tank and that also has a fuel pressure sensor.
I agree with measuring the fuel pressure separately but with these DI engines that is not a simple task and I don't have a 2000+ psi gauge either. So not exactly sure how to do it other than using SDD.
Is the car blowing clouds of white smoke out the tail pipes?
One thing that Jaguar always did when this happened under warranty was to replace all the injectors on that side of the engine. Even if you only getting codes for one or two cylinders. Not sure why but JLR was consistent in that. Note your miss fires are all on the odd numbered cylinders which is the passenger side bank. I would change all 4 injectors on that side.
Can you post pictures of the counterfeit injectors? They can only be counterfeit if they have been replaced before?
Can you measure fuel pressure in any way? I would not worry about too much pressure as all those type of things will set various codes.
Is the car still showing the above codes after you have cleared them?
We want to chase what the car thinks is going on.
.
.
.
That OEM fuel pressure sensor is unobtainium. I replaced mine with a superceded Bosch part number available on RockAuto but the OEM part number I cannot seem to find.
That OEM fuel pressure sensor is unobtainium. I replaced mine with a superceded Bosch part number available on RockAuto but the OEM part number I cannot seem to find.
Or, as some of us do, another option is used from eBay, especially if you can verify that the vehicle came off of was. Good rule of thumb, if it's sitting in the junkyard but wrecked, it was running just before that incident. I very often buy parts like this from eBay for all of my vehicles, including my four jags, and I can't think of but one single instance where there was a problem from the get-go and it was an easy return. When we live in a world and drive vehicles where so many OE parts are unavailable, new any longer, to me. Anyway, the super cheap price and OE equipment is a better gamble than even a good name. Aftermarket for most things, not everything. Mind you but most things.
Here's where we are at at this time. Because of the potential of a catastrophic engine failure I shut her down and I had her towed back to the garage. Main concern, of course, was flooding the sump with fuel. After I established that it was not a stuck open injector, I noted then cleared DTC, then ran the engine, revving up to 3-3.5 rpm. Seems that what I had was temporary. Maybe a bit of carbon some how holding an injector open. Added intake cleaner to fuel system. She is at this point back on the road. But I don't trust this is end of it. One thing is the TSB about power cleaning the intake. Is anyone aware if the BG flush system is still available? Can a DIY mechanic get a hold of one? The TSB indicates BG offers the system to dealers for no cost. Anyone have any experience? What I can surmise, to use that system, you have to break into the fuel rail or use a Schrader valve that is common on some makes used to release pressure. If my memory serves the 4.0 in the wife's XK had the valve. At this point I'm not giving up on the bad sensors, although she's back on the road again, the codes didn't make sense. The thought of the computers going hay wire kinda dose. I'll look to see if I saved the bad injectors and post some shots.
Thanks again
Brian
That OEM fuel pressure sensor is unobtainium. I replaced mine with a superceded Bosch part number available on RockAuto but the OEM part number I cannot seem to find.
For the AJ133 from VIN V39427, the JLR part number is C2Z22844. The earlier VINs use JLR part number AJ812513.