Hey everybody!
ive got a 2012 Xjl portfolio, and I’ve been thinking of doing a transmission fluid flush. It’s got about 92k on it, and as far as I can tell it has never been done. Everybody on here was more than helpful when I did it in my 2000 XJR, but if I thought it was hard to find instructions for work on that car, man this newer one is even harder. Im not planning on hooking it up to a machine or anything, just dump out what I can, fill it back up, and replace the filter. Any help or instruction would be greatly appreciated!

 

Hi,

I hope you noticed full service and repair manual for XJ x351 on sticky section of this forum?
Here are transmission manufacturer instruction for oil change:
If you purchase ZF:s own 6HP kit with oils and pan (inbuild filter) it comes with printed instruction too.

 

Opinions vary on whether a partial fluid change is necessary during the lifetime of the X351 if driven "normally". Had I bought mine new, I probably wouldn't have performed this oil change. As you can see in my OP, the oil analysis in my car was quite good. If you're doing this yourself ...

You will need a small torque wrench calibrated in inch-pounds. 88 in-lbs for the pan screws. Also a very short 8mm Allen stub for the filler plug. I cut off a ½" piece from a cheap wrench and taped in in an 8mm box wrench. Make sure you can remove the fill plug before draining the pan You'll also need an infrared thermometer. Be absolutely certain the car is level on your lift; use a bubble level on the rocker panel.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ervice-245546/

https://www.thectsc.com/products/oil...ce-186-61.html

 

Holy cow, my hero! Thank you so much! You went above and beyond, everybody on here is always so helpful. Thank you, thank you!!!

 

Thank you!! I’ve got my own lift and pretty much one of every tool sold at harbor freight. Definitely plan on doing it this weekend. I drive the car normally, it’s my daily. The xjr is there to leave tire marks wherever it pisses off my neighbors the most. But, the previous owner of my xjl had some mufflers removed, and even though it sounds amazing, It’s a pretty tell tale sign it wasn’t driven by little miss Susie to church on Sundays. I’m not having major issues with the tranny (knock on wood), but it definitely doesn’t like the cold, and can occasionally shift a little rough on lower gears. ive done a few transmission fluid flushes before, and I figured I’d rather be a little overly cautious and do it since, doing it right, shouldn’t harm anything.

 

Firm downshifts with closed throttle coasting to a stop are typical with the 6-speed.

 

My 8 speed occasionally does a "positive" downshift too, just now and then. It's always done that so it seems to be just a feature. It's actually got rarer in the 3 years since I had it - adjusting to my driving style?

 

Opinions vary on transmission fluid change, but the manufacturer is consistent on the ZFHP26/28. I believe it ranges from recommendations to change anywhere from 50k-80k miles depending on driving style (just check spec sheet to confirm, this is what I remember). ZF formally recommends this as I work with them extensively in my job.

Note, BMW/Audi owners may have similar feedback. Valve bodies/sleeve kits are sold by FCP Euro and look to be cheap insurance for long term reliabillity if you are indeed dropping the filter pan to do a simple fluid change. Note also that you will need to do a change on fluid I think 2-3 times in total over the timeframe you're looking at in order to get all the old fluid out as there will be some in the torque converter. I just do the change what's available at the time method to make sure I get most of the old fluid out.

 

I have posted this before but I like and use this outfit for most of my ZF stuff. It was posted above by another poster. They are well known.
ZF Oil Change Kits

Now your a bit lucky as the 6 speed ZF's use Lifeguard6 which is EXACTLY the same as MerconSP. Only difference is the price and the color. Not sure where you live but the SP is made in Houston and pretty widely available. Dozens have used the SP fluid with great results.

As posted above do make sure the fill plug can be broken loose BEFORE draining any fluid!! It's very tight access getting to the plug and it's in there very tight! I had to cut down an 8mm Allen wrench to make it fit and then used a 2' cheater pipe to get the plug moving!

Also look under the car before ordering parts as the 6 speed has a well know sealing sleeve leak which is cheap and easy to fix once you drop the pan. Note the sealing sleeve can't be replaced any other way. Look at the rear of the transmission and there will be a big bunch of wires going into the transmission. It usually gets a bit damp or even has a drip or two of transmission fluid. It's so common I just order the sleeve all the time. It's only like $16-$18.

The 6 speed also suffered from "The Lurch" for quite a long time.
The Lurch
Note this web site is talking about the earlier S-Type which also had the 6 speed ZF. I think it's been fixed in the later years. Just something to be aware of.

As of right now the 8 speed ZF requires Lifeguard8 and no other substitutes have really been found. They may exist?
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Trying not to detract from OP's original request, but had to chuckle at the effort the webmaster for thelurch site put into documentation. The things that give product quality teams nightmares.

 

Changing the transmission fluid is likely to be worthwhile, but flushing it (meaning pushing some sort of flushing fluid through it before putting the new proper fluid in) could cause some problems. I understand this is because the flushing fluid can loosen and re-suspend crud that has built up in the transmission over the miles. Whilst immobile it was doing no harm but once re-suspended it can get into, and block, many of the small orifices in the transmission valve blocks.

 

Yes I am not a fan of flushing either. I think we need to understand from a commercial shops point of view it's MUCH easier to unhook a line and connect your machine and pump away. This does not change the filter and you can't examine the pan and clean the metal sludge off the magnets. All of which does need to be done and takes time and effort compared to a "flush". BUT it's much quicker and cleaner so there is a LOT more profit doing flushes compared to properly servicing the transmissions. That's why it's so popular and advertised so much.

Next problem is most modern cars of the last 20-30 years have thermostatic valves in the cooler lines so the fluid is not put thru the transmission cooler and lines until the fluid warms up to a certain temperature. So again a flush simply can't get to all the fluid paths using this method. Now I do wish more manufacturers would put torque converter drain plugs in so we can get more fluid out. I have only seen this on one MB I worked on and it was a SOB getting that tiny plug out and back in but I did get some more old fluid out.

Yea I hesitated putting that Lurch web site up as the guy went pretty over board BUT he did have a point and spent a LOT of time and effort documenting the problems and I do thank him for that!
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