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Yes, thats pretty normal. Looks Ok to me.
The crank pulley and right side (from front) camshaft pulley have outside edges for guidance so belt dont touch plastic cover when driven on deep water, when thoothed belt can "float" few mm over pulley by water cushion. (and have a risk of jump a thooth)
Edges well visible on video. Naturally engine itself work as edge on inner side.
Hello guys….
One question for youX351 3.0 d.……. Engine cooling fan……
Beeing summer… I didn't hear it working…..
I realised that under any situation I didn't hear my engine cooling fan like in other cars when.… stationary in traffic, you hear it turning on high revs.
Temp is soon on in the middle, on the gage.
If it was to be faulty…. It would show up on tester as an error?
Do you guys hear your fan? Outside the car or Inside?
Here….40+celsius….. In shadow. So….really hot
So…. How can I check it? When should it start? Does it have a over rpm for stationary and verry hot? Can someone please explain these ?
Hi guys
Hope everyone is ok... And vacations are great.
I have just a quick question for you.
On the passenger side for a left wheel drive, in the bumper, there is a smaller radiator. Something like 30/40 cm. Whats it for? Does anyone has a parts number? And…..if its the intercooler…. Like I've been told by the guys at the parts shop….. How is it affected if the fins ar in a bad way? Not leaking or anything…. But pretty much all the fins are bend and oxydayed. Bad airflow and subsequently bad cooling for.…… gases if its the intercooler? I mean….. Its in a worse shape then the front grill radiator. I know that if a radiator has too many closed fins it just doesn't cool anymore, not doing its job.
So… please…. Help with some ideas so I can take a decision about it!
Thank you
Without info how bad the fins are, i would say that Yes. The engine itself are fine with just with main radiator, but with twin turbo/EGR setup and high torgue output, the transmission oil (as well as engine oil) are cooled by engine coolant too. Therefore engine coolant system take quite much heat out from the overall powertrain.
There are second hand ones available and it is also possible to recondition the fins if they are only bend. (its time consuming job, but done it few times for historic vehicles, where new ones was not available...)
Not sure….. Seems its clogged and fins bend.
Should I try to find a better one or try to clean this one? . What could I use to clean it? On the out side…… because seems to be clogged….. Let it sink and soak in what substance to get the dirt out and after that try to straight the fins.
And what to use on the inside? What substance would work?
And a secondary question... The radiator for the climate compressor….. Can be cleaned inside? And if yes….. What substance to use also? And I guess blow it after with a air compressor? Thanks
And……. Left hand drive…. Right hand drive…. The radiator has the same position? Its the same part?
I have been sorting out far worse than that.
Fins have been taken some hit, but they are far better than i expected by your description.
Yes, remove and sink it and let it soak. The dirt are mainly "road dirt" (sand, bitumium, salt..) so heavy solvent is not needed. You can first try just an car shampoo and hot water. That should get most of the sand away. If car shampoo is not effective enough use stronger solvent detergent meant for vehicle outside wash. In last effort use an quick acid based plumber cleaner, like Mr.Muscle with water, but be aware that these radiators are alumium and acid based attack quite hard on it, so rinse it well away with warm water afterwards. Then take pliers and reshape the fins you find bended. As long as you can see thru, the air will flow too.
Internally use standard coolant radiator flush available from car part shops.
For aircon radiator outside same process, but never done anything myself for insides. There are hardly needed to be cleaned inside, exept after major compressor failure. The aircon system have lubricant circulating, so solvent is needed.
I have been sorting out far worse than that.
Fins have been taken some hit, but they are far better than i expected by your description.
Yes, remove and sink it and let it soak. The dirt are mainly "road dirt" (sand, bitumium, salt..) so heavy solvent is not needed. You can first try just an car shampoo and hot water. That should get most of the sand away. If car shampoo is not effective enough use stronger solvent detergent meant for vehicle outside wash. In last effort use an quick acid based plumber cleaner, like Mr.Muscle with water, but be aware that these radiators are alumium and acid based attack quite hard on it, so rinse it well away with warm water afterwards. Then take pliers and reshape the fins you find bended. As long as you can see thru, the air will flow too.
Internally use standard coolant radiator flush available from car part shops.
For aircon radiator outside same process, but never done anything myself for insides. There are hardly needed to be cleaned inside, exept after major compressor failure. The aircon system have lubricant circulating, so solvent is needed.
Hi guys. Follow up. Like I told you I changed the crankshaft and piston arm bearings about 6 months ago. Done something like 1500 km. The job was done with engine down and crank out through the bottom. No top engine disassemble. Pistons didn'tleft the engine.
km Mostly in town, but some 130 km highway short 10 km trips. I was really curious about whats in the oil filter. So…. Here are some pics.
Tool to pick up metal. Magnet for picking up bolts droped.
Strong enough to pick up a cutter. Used to cut the filter
The filter. Bear in mind that the engine was not fully rebuilt. But had before bearings, new rockers installed. And front and Back distribution.
So, engine was not fully dismantled and cleaned. Like in a full rebuilt. Actually, it stayed in the large service shop hall with other cars worked on around. So no exactly clean environment.
The result.
about 15-20 micro shards. Metal… as u can see.
1-2 pieces of ald bearings layers, brown grey with reddish colour and verry thin. Not metallicCouple of pieces of carbonization. Hardened…. But disintegrated on the finger.
I literally scraped in the deepest part fold of the filter to get what you see on the magnet. Scraped until I got any bling out. Used a flashlight To hunt them. About 30-50 ultra micro specs of shine, not sure of metal, they adhere to the oil and to the magnet by scraping and the oil on the magnet
Hope youubderstand the procedure.
Just by calmly sliding the magnet through the crease/fold, the result was only those micro shards..15 ish. From them…. Like 7 you can see clearly… the rest my iPhone pro couldn't zoom and clarify enough.
So…. My opinion. These seem to be residue from the old parts, ware and Tare on a normal 200.000 km engine. Micro shards might be from anyware in the engine since it wasn't cleaned and rebuilt in a dust environment perfect air room. Like it should. Might me even residue of opened and closed bolts all over the engine. From different moments of the job. Actually, oil pan at one moment was on a table and could of collected debris. From air or other works around. Crankshaft was 2 days on a box on a table in the shop openly…. So…. In general, impossible to keep all things perfect clean.
Didnt found any real sparkle hard metal. Except those ultra micro shards that sit on the top of the magnet. And that was after scraping the oil filter to get anything loose from the crease.
So guys…. Opinions?
In this pic, you can see couple of shiny spots, that I had to rub the magnet on the paper, otherwise wont pick them up. Some black carbonization.… not metallic(had to play again billiard again woththem to be able to take them off the paper because would not stick to magnet.
About 3-5 shine pieces….. Are so small and so tiny….. As u can see.
Replaced the oil filter, and after some time another checking. Hope I am correct and it was debris and dirt from the engine.… stored in the MIDLLE of the crease. That's how small they ware. You can see in the third pic………..i really had to hunt for them
Quite normal after engine rebuild. Like you wrote: Most likely from screws / washers etc and new parts "run-in" wear.
Add new oil filter and drive another 1500km and check again. You should not found same amount anymore.
Quite normal after engine rebuild. Like you wrote: Most likely from screws / washers etc and new parts "run-in" wear.
Add new oil filter and drive another 1500km and check again. You should not found same amount anymore.
Yeap. Will do that. But its gonna take some time. Jag is asleep for a few months.… going out of the country.
Thanks for the answer
