I still have my subframe out and took the alternator off to clean it and the area behind it. Very accessible currently and it is the original ND one from 96 (I assume).

I don't really want to get a new one in case it's Chinese junk and don't want to wait while this one is rebuilt so my question is how hard is it to change the alternator when the subframe, steering rack etc is in place? Anyone done that? If I need to do it later will I be kicking myself?

It was absolutely filthy when I took it out, covered in oily dirt

 

G'day Oliver,

I have changed my, alternator working from underneath, with the car on ramps and the only thing I did for better access was to disconnect the sway bar on the RHS. The link and the subframe mounting, I left the other side intact.

Alternators are pretty simple to dismantle and clean out and check the bearings and brushes etc. If it was working fine before then cleaning it out won't hurt it.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Thanks for this Jeff! Was it easy to hook up the wiring, which is on the far side from the front? Were to able to get to it from the wheel arch?

 

G'day Oliver,

Yeah I reconnected the wiring through the wheel arch but I peeled back the liner out of the way.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

thanks Jeff, i'll just put it back in for now then

 

The brushes are robust on the Denso alternator and mine are at 1/2 wear at 110 K miles

There seams to be a part # difference between the inline 6 and V12 alternators

Your data plate does not match mine off the top of my head but I have it written down in the garage

At least they are the same 211 series

Parts can be obtained here

https://store.alternatorparts.com/in...regulator.aspx

and

https://store.alternatorparts.com/ni...tor-parts.aspx

 

Thank you! I'll probably order a rebuild kit to have on the shelf for when that day arrives...

 

I fried my voltage regulator in installing the battery in backwards so in replacing the IN435 voltage regulator I found the screw going through both the VR and brush assembly fused

So I ordered a brush also

The VRs from E - Bay vendors ( 2 tried ) were delivered as the wrong part #s so I picked up a DBC6819 / Denso 211 - XXX X alternator ( this is the specific one for mine ) alternator at the salvage yard and it worked

But........ the salvage alternator front bearing recently gave out so had a shop replace it , no telling how many miles on the salvage alternator

 

In splitting the alternator halves ( which you will probably do to clean ) I cracked the casting knocking them apart

I did not use penetrating oil on the halves seam or use heat

This was my original alternator but was still intact enough to install as a temporary condition

The original alternator Denso data plate on my inline 6 is 10211-63_0

The _ blank # was scratched out during maneuvering on both alternators

The IN435 # was labeled on the original alternator VR

The VRs I did receive were not even this although I ordered the specific IN435 # from some kid in his Mom's basement on E - Bay

 

Keen to get some help on this one,

I’m replacing my alternator, but can’t get it out.

I’ve removed the electrical connectors, top and bottom bolts and the belt, it swings freely but won’t drop. I must be missing something?

Any help much appreciated, the cars on the driveway, so keen to get this one done today.

 

G’day N,

See my post above, I disconnected my sway bar on the RHS to make room to remove the alternator and accessed the wiring through the RHS wheel arch with the liner pulled out of the way.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Thanks, I can get to it, I just can’t get it loose. So all the bolts are removed, and it rotates freely about the top bracket (even with the bolt removed that holds it to the bracket) but won’t pull free. Is there anything else holding it in other than the two bolts? Should I just goober it a whack?

 

G'day N,

I recall, from the dim distant past, that there is a sliding bush in the front of the alternator mounting bracket which tightens up against the alternator when the mounting bolt is tightened. Maybe you can lever the alternator or bush forwards a bit to relieve the pressure of the bush against the alternator body.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Yeah, that’s what it was

 

OK, got it all back together, and the voltage on the dash is good, that battery is charging well, 14V, (I have a Bluetooth battery monitor), but the battery warning light is on…. Any idea what I might have done wrong?

 

The battery warning light ................................

Alternator charge red light on ?

Any corrosion going on in the round rubber connector on the alternator ?

Is your dash more like this or the stand alone monitor indication not right ?

 

Yes, my dash is like that, and when the engine is running, the gauge reads 14V.

But the warning light (that looks like a battery) is on.

No corrosion on any of the alternator terminals, but the connector from the alternator regulator to the instrument panel does look tired.

 

Of the 2 wires on the round plug on the alternator one is to power the VR to excite the alternator as it takes power to make power with fuse # 10 right engine bay fuse box

You have that

The 2nd wire Slate / White color is " a " indication labeled wire It has a few connections along the way like the Papa Indy 61 connector postion 5

There is a TSB on these 2 connectors 1 and 61 for corrosion.







If this indication is your light or the voltage reading or the light is derived from the voltage reading .....................

or a discrete voltage valve ( on/ off ) flag for the red alternator light

The light tripping can be sensed from any where on the car in theory as well as the voltage gauge so that is unknown exactly where it comes from on this car , ir can even be inside the instument cluster module

There are at least 2 fuses for the instrument cluster in the left heelboard fuse box with one of them requiring the relay in the corner of the fuse box to close

This relay can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box relay

You can remove the bulb from the glove box light as with a meter see what voltage the rest of the car is seeing and what is charging the battery ( must be at least a volt above 12.75 volts ) or lack of fully charging the battery

The rest of the car at this test point will have gone through the heavy battery cable terminal post ( s ) other then on the battery post , that can be compromised , do not overtighten the battery positive post clamp

You will have several heavy battery cable terminal post through the car other then on the battery