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Not sure how much information I can get on here but worth a try.
Unknown to me my beloved '95 XJ12 has been letting water in. I found wet carpets in the car and I’ve spent three solid days drying everything out.
The water got in at the base of the windscreen. All repaired now. Just didn’t realize how bad the issue was.
I went to to start the car today and I’m not getting the engine to crank.
Everything seems to work electrically with the ignition on. Lights, radio air conditioning, etc.
however when when I try to start I get nothing. The instrument lights go out and there’s no starting. The radio lights go out and slowly lighten back up.
I also have have no mileage display (odometer).
Now before this descends into all doom and gloom I think it may be the battery. It’s showing 9 volts on the dash. Tried to jumpstart but even with jump leads connected to a new battery it's still registering 10 volts. Which makes me think it may actually be the battery.
The car hasn’t been used in about four months as well.
Could it it be just battery or does the blank odometer mean something else?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Andrew Harper; Nov 4, 2018 at 11:50 AM.
First, install a new battery and make sure the new one if fully charged. There should be a minimum of 12.6 volts across the terminals when fully charged.
If the vehicle is unused for several weeks at a time, consider connecting it to a battery maintainer to prolong the life of the battery. Here is an example for twenty-two quid:
First, install a new battery and make sure the new one if fully charged. There should be a minimum of 12.6 volts across the terminals when fully charged.
If the vehicle is unused for several weeks at a time, consider connecting it to a battery maintainer to prolong the life of the battery. Here is an example for twenty-two quid:
I did just read that the ecu is in the drivers footwell? I’m wondering if that’s got water into it. However I would expect all sorts of issues not just starting. Everything else seems fine.
Last edited by Andrew Harper; Nov 3, 2018 at 03:21 PM.
Remove the ECU from the vehicle and make sure it's dry. Use a hair dryer to gently warm it, or weather permitting, place it in a window in the sunlight.
Check both ends of the connection for any corrosion as well.
The king relays in the corner of each fuse box can be swapped with the LH engine fuse box relay considered a spare
The LH engine fuse box relay is in reality only the horn relay so test first
The mileage comes out of the LH heelboard king relay
With the key in the on position you can rock the relay it their sockets and feel them click . If the relays click it shows the contacts in the ignition switch are sonewhat OK
By establishing power on these 5 points we can move on to the starter rotation
Editing
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Nov 3, 2018 at 07:08 PM.
The king relays in the corner of each fuse box can be swapped with the LH engine fuse box relay considered a spare
The LH engine fuse box relay is in reality only the horn relay so test first
The mileage comes out of the LH heelboard king relay
With the key in the on position you can rock the relay it their sockets and feel them click . If the relays click it shows the contacts in the ignition switch are sonewhat OK
By establishing power on these 5 points we can move on to the starter rotation
Editing
thanks for that. Interesting.
I wonder. I also own an XJS facelift and I replaced all the blue colored relays with the upgraded units. These are water tight which the originals are not.
I wonder if these are also a culprit?
Last edited by Andrew Harper; Nov 4, 2018 at 02:24 AM.
Water inside the fuse will help conduct the current until later it may corrode the fuse link
I’m sorry I was tired when I typed that. Corrected now. I meant relays. Can’t remember the number now but the original blue Lucas ones let moisture in.
They were replaced by Jaguar with different units. I think I replaced about ten of them on the xjs. I had headlights not working properly and all sorts. All the issues vanished.
Anyway. Going slightly off topic but I’ll have a look today. Unfortunately its pouring down outside which hinders the work a bit but I’ll see what I can do.
Last edited by Andrew Harper; Nov 4, 2018 at 11:51 AM.
A step after the king relays clicking closed is the ignition switch which controls them by providing a control ground
This is an inside job
By removing the 2 screws in the holes from the bottom steering column cover the cover will come off
By putting a meter on pin 1 to 5 you should see it close as you rotate the key . Then 2 to 5 then 3 to 5
More then one of these contacts will close at the same time as you rotate but is not important at this time
On the car side of the connector the pin 5 should go to car frame ground
You can flush out any moisture trapped in the switch with some rubbing alcohol , shaking around , then tapping out . Let dry then spraying in some penetrating oil . this will preserve it from corroding
The fuse boxes can be removed from the car as there is a removable connector on the bottom side you can't see . Label each fuse box as I think each is different . Flush with rubbing alcohol
The fuse maps can be found on page 21 of the LWB doc linked below :
The Body Processor Module or sometimes called BCM is important in starter inhibit as well as other things like lights and I would recommend pulling it out and flushing it out as an inside job . Not an easy job behind the glove box but recommended still for long term serviceability .
A way to know if the BPM is working in the starter inhibit aspect is to feel the starter solenoid relay click and this relay an be swapped with the headlight relay if not clicking . These large relay can get stuck in their base socket and some penetrating oil spray helps .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Nov 4, 2018 at 10:39 AM.
A step after the king relays clicking closed is the ignition switch which controls them by providing a control ground
This is an inside job
By removing the 2 screws in the holes from the bottom steering column cover the cover will come off
By putting a meter on pin 1 to 5 you should see it close as you rotate the key . Then 2 to 5 then 3 to 5
More then one of these contacts will close at the same time as you rotate but is not important at this time
On the car side of the connector the pin 5 should go to car frame ground
You can flush out any moisture trapped in the switch with some rubbing alcohol , shaking around , then tapping out . Let dry then spraying in some penetrating oil . this will preserve it from corroding
The fuse boxes can be removed from the car as there is a removable connector on the bottom side you can't see . Label each fuse box as I think each is different . Flush with rubbing alcohol
The fuse maps can be found on page 21 of the LWB doc linked below :
The Body Processor Module or sometimes called BCM is important in starter inhibit as well as other things like lights and I would recommend pulling it out and flushing it out as an inside job . Not an easy job behind the glove box but recommended still for long term serviceability .
A way to know if the BPM is working in the starter inhibit aspect is to feel the starter solenoid relay click and this relay an be swapped with the headlight relay if not clicking . These large relay can get stuck in their base socket and some penetrating oil spray helps .
I changed most of the relays that I could find and I also used electronic contact cleaner to just try and dry and look after any damp connections.
Anyway, no luck. The car still wouldn't start.
I had this one idea though (and at this point i had nothing to lose). I have a domestic dehumidifier in the house and anything to try and dry the interior out was worth it.
Placed the unit in the car, set it at 30% and just left it running a few weeks. Emptied about four buckets of water from the base. The car still smells a bit musty but it was doing the job.
After about three weeks of this, I went to check something, and low and behold the car started.
So I've left the dehumidifier in the car at 30% and every few days I run the engine with heating on full blast to get some heat into the car and the interior.
About half of the centre console bulbs have gone so I need to sort that, the wood trim in the car is not good so I may have to send that for renovation, and the leather trim is not looking great. The worst seat is the front passenger one which has mould on it. Products have been ordered!
Two quick questions though.
1. The odometer is still blank. I see there are plenty of instrument binacles on EBay. Is it possible to swap over the odometer display only on these? Or are they like the horrible copper ribbon cables like on the clock? I'm handy with small electrical work. I think the segments in the display have simply failed. I will need to remove it anyway as some of the bulbs have gone behind the instruments.
2. I've searched far and wide for this one but found no answer. I assume most of the the musty/damp smell is still coming from the carpets. Is there any companies in the UK that make replacement carpets for the LWB X300? I can't find any. The lambswool rugs I think are also ruined so I will have to get replacements from somewhere. I have dried them but they smell of wet sheep and damp. lol.
I can't do much now apart from what I'm doing already, with no garage and the lovely January/February weather it limits my hours of work. Should start to get better around March hopefully.
Last edited by Andrew Harper; Jan 21, 2019 at 10:40 AM.
There are new seat skins recently avail for the 95 - 97 X300 series that someone has tried , this is other then seat covers over the original skins next to the foam
Reasonable price
I'll get back with you later today
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Jan 20, 2019 at 03:35 PM.
There are new seat skins recently avail for the 95 - 97 X300 series that someone has tried , this is other then seat covers over the original skins next to the foam
Reasonable price
I'll get back with you later today
hey, have you any news on those seat skins?
Out of all the seats the only bad part is the bottom cushion on the passenger side.
I'm glad to hear you're making progress, but I would turn up the dehumidifier to 40-45% perhaps. You said the wood trim is not great but 30% is very dry for both the leather and wood, and could cause warping or cracking issues.
It's currently on 40-50%. That's as low as it will go anyway but it's doing the job.
Yes, things are going ok. I've booked a few days off work next week so I can spend some more time on it. Just hoping the weather stays ok. It's coldish here but dry and that's all I care about.
In an accidental coincidence the rear passenger compartment is missing it's metal stick on kick plate covers (I have new ones still in a box), so I can get to the screws holding the plate down rather than risk damaging the metal sheet that covers them.
I'm going to remove it, and lift up the rear carpet section. Take out the foam, etc. and thoroughly attack it with hair dryers, etc.
There's still some wetness there so doing my best to get rid of it as much as I can. So far so good though.
Sorry I did see your reply but I came down with bronchitis and I've been away from the PC trying to shift the infection.
Thanks for those links, brilliant stuff.
Oddly I've sent a few emails and filled in the contact form for World Upholstery but had no response. I assume they still exist. Will try their Facebook page as well.
The LSeats look interesting, incredible price. My only issue is the car. The Century had unusual trim colours. I believe the leather is called light mushroom. So I may be unable to get a good match. I may send off payment for the sample card anyway just to see.
My XJ12 has a starting problem....
