The Prodigal Son returns!! Welcome back my friend. Didn't know if you were coming back from the war, what a relief. Let's get right back into it shall we? Yes! Ahhh, feels like you never left.

Oliver will listen to Ben Hur for inspiration until it is drowned out by the fire from the V12 without any mufflers! That will be (beautifully loud) music to the ears.

Condolences for Little Bubba and Little Bobo. But we know you are as tough as your user-namesake. Stay well.

"Parker, will you be a dear and fix my Jaguar?"

[cockney accent] "Yes, M'Lady!"

 

Bottom line the Starter Solenoid relay must click closed to power the solenoid to do it's thing

If it clicks you have verified the BPM is providing a command ground at pin FC1 - 33 for the relay which is the end result of the BPM satisfyingly the ground seeking paths of the ignition switch , linier switch , and the Security module ( this one is a digital signal that is hard the fake for overriding )

Better to place finger on it as other relays in the area also click

This is on page 54 of the 96 wiring guide

The Security module is located under the fuel filler well the can leak water onto the connectors if the well drain line is clogged . You mentioned somewhere about rain and this fault has been seen before and may require a Jaguar hard reset to get the security module back to zero state which you can do yourself

This one wire from the Security moduale to the BPM passes through the large multi wire BT4 connector above the fuel tank that can come loose

This connector can be a pain to reconnect so don't try too hard and break the 2 engagement lock pins . tywrap the locking bar to keep it from migrating loose

 

Is that this guy under the fuel filler?



One thing that freaks me about my car is the various connectors with nothing attached in engine bay and down here on left. PO's seems to have removed some stuff...

 

Poked around down in this area, mostly the bundle of wires under the white connector with nothing attached. Tried the ignition and the starter cranked! Windscreen wiper came on and won't stop so there is definitely a wiring issue maybe caused by a water leak a good few weeks ago.

This means I think I can put the exhaust back on and put car back on four wheels to trouble shoot, don't think there is anything else that needs attending to down below. So basically the starter motor part of this journey is done, on to electrical issue chase down.

 

Q in Hong Kong had a leak with the front windshield that would allow water to get down into the ECU connector . One of the ground seeking paths the BPM looks for of pin FC2 - 7 is when the ECU sees a issue with the fuel inhibit ( crash switch ? ) but otherwise water between pins in the ECU connector can confuse the cars logic as well as engine sensor values.

The security module is inboard of the fill filler door lock actuator you have in picture and has 4 connectors on it in a single row arrangement so it looks like 1 long connector

The ECU connector is commonly Aval in the US for the inline 6 ECU but the V -12 ECU is of a different manufacture




EDITING

 

Thanks. I recall the guy I bought car from said he had an issue with front windshield leak affecting electrics. I put all the gearshift area back together, ski slope back on etc. Car doesn't crank again now so I suspect the issue is around the shifter permissions. I'm not seeing any P R N D lights will double check that after dark today with headlight on etc. The wiper seems to be normal except its not parking well at end of stint of wiping.

I'll put the exhaust back tomorrow so it's easier to work on the electrical issues, also take more lining trim out of trunk so I can find the security module. I only have one key, bought a fob and tried to program it but got no chirps so that's another area to explore while in there.

 

The Fobs on the X300 series come in 315 and 433 HZ versions , there are a couple of TSB's on this

http://www.jagrepair.com/X300TSB.htm

See 18 - 04 and on

 

Thanks I went thru this saga last fall, stopped to focus on other things.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...estion-235033/

 

You want to barrow one as I have 2

That way You'll know if it's a bad transmitter

 

That's a very kind offer! Let me see if a PO removed anything first! I remember not finding the security unit by the fuse box (I think) right before I took the car for a new windscreen and it rewarded me with my starter motor saga...Be good to make sure the necessary components that talk to the fob are actually there....

 

The security module is by the trunk car's side left trunk hinge , it sits about 15 degree off vertical

 

There is a dead starter thread on the inline 6 going on at this link :
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...gaging-243729/

Your V - 12 setup is almost the same with the exception of the rotary switch location wiring wise on the right side of the BPM

You will see more contributors inputs and expertise from the inline 6 X300 community

 

Thanks! In the brief time I've had last couple of days I've been putting the exhaust back on and hit a minor roadblock with the heat shield over the steering rack.

Last year at the start of disassembly to get at the starter motor I only removed the lower bolt which enabled me to move the shield enough to remove the exhaust down pipe. So I have enough clearance to put the down pipe back I'm now having to take the whole shield off, and struggling with the upper bolt. Currently it's soaking in penetrant, silly little torx 20 or hex button head bolt, PO has messed it up a bit as usual hard to get torque on it.

Tomorrow I'lll try and get the car back down on four wheels when the exhaust is on and sort out the new intermittent start electrical issue! Probably have the ski slope off again and explore the trunk area.

 

The security module fuse is sometimes pulled to keep the alarm from going off during storage

The fuse is # 4 / 10 amp trunk fuse box and is hot at all times

I keep a string tied around it so I can yank it out during times of low battery charge

half the fuses in a fuse box ( like the fuel pump ) are hot at all times and the other half are dependent on the fuse box relay which I call a king relay to be more Bri - ish

 

A 3rd no start problem on the inline 6 being churned through that could give you information on yours

He appears to have a starter solenoid output post shorting to case ground

Large voltage sag on starter sequence ( under 11.4 volts )

 

Thanks! I just got the last problem fastener out tonight between rainfalls, the upper steering rack heat shield t20 bolt (stripped). Tomorrow aiming to put exhaust back and lower to all fours, then troubleshoot electrical issue

 

While on the rack look for the numbers on your starter solenoid or at least if it is Bosch manufacturer stamped into the metal

V - 12 starter may be visible from above

 

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

If it comes down to it

Seems the photo album storage fee was not paid

 

Thanks for this, still trying to get exhaust back in - Cherry DB1C-A1LB microswitch is a useful part number in that post!
I'm going to put the car on axle stands under body center section tomorrow and see if the front suspension drops a bit so I can get the down pipe back in, it just won't go over the two studs nearest front of car right now so I can locate the pipes

 

One thing I found is the importance of not damaging the downpipe donut seating flare by the studs sticking out

Willl cause the fuel trim or mixture to bias on the rich side



If you have to order the switch there is a throw dimension before the switch makes , this is sometimes hard to find but has a huge effect on adjustment

Some people have put in the reverse functioning switch equivalent , normal open vs. normal close