Plus Vehicle Too Low. Hoping some of you can point me in the right direction, I am a DIYer so I hope to start in the right track to solve this problem:

CLUES:

• 101K miles
• This summer, new compressor after Suspension Fault (97K), no faults since
• Every so often you hear a quick burst of air with car off while in the garage, very infrequent
• Today coldest day yet, 22 Fahrenheit
• 20 minutes into commute, yellow light Suspension Fault
• 5 minutes later, red light Vehicle Too Low message
• Front end of car very low

APPROACH?:

1. This is where I need guidance. I guess I need something beyond an ODBII scanner to read the suspension codes?
2. Does the compressor seem the culprit? Both sides of the front end equally low. See pic.
3. Is there a fuse or relay to check to start off?

Much thanks and I know this is common, but I need experts here to consider the clues and help me find the best repair approach (no kitchen sinks please ;-). Christmas is upon us and this comes at a very bad time perhaps.

 

If you only just replaced the air compressor, I would not be suspecting that, unless it is a Joe Noname product. The system recognises the front of the vehicle is too low, so the height transmitters seem to be working OK. The front units are controlled together so it looks like you may have an air leak in one or both of them. It is normal to hear an air release on return from a reasonably long run. This is the system blowing air back through the compressor and the drier to blow out the accumulated moisture back to atmosphere, so totally normal action.

It really is essential you read the fault codes before buying expensive spare parts that may not address the issue. With the low temperatures you mention, I would not be surprised if the seal at the top of the air spring is leaking. However, you could have suffered a catastrophic failure of one or even both of the front air spring diaphragms. Can you hear any air escaping at the front ?

 

Almost a sure thing your front shocks are shot.

After making sure you can buy new Arnott's that work well.

R M T will rebuild yours, or sell you a rebuilt used set, which is less expensive.

 

So after the work day, I went to the parking garage and I did the reset process for the air suspension, that is turn the car on and then off, then ignition on and then ignition off, started the car and let it sit for couple minutes, upon that time, compressor came on--I could hear it--and started lifting the front end of the car which was a big relief. The error code "vehicle too low" went away and everything was fine. I drove home without any issues. When I got home and in the garage, turned the car off, open the hood, and I could faintly hear some air escaping from the top of the passenger shock in the front. This only lasted for about 30 seconds and totally stopped. It seemed to come from the connector area at very top of shock and not from the air supply hose. Once air noise gone, I measured the height from fender to the floor and on that side, the car was 3/8 of an inch lower than the driver's side. Driver side 27 1/8, passenger side 26 3/4 height measured in inches inside of wheel well to floor.

What do you all think?

And thank you for the replies.

 

You need to get the strut replaced as already mentioned

 

In pairs is best for tires, shocks, & many other things.

 

Thanks for the lead on R M T, I intend to get a pair for the front. Will report on tomorrow's commute.

 

This morning the car was too low again. I started it and it soon raised the front end.
After about 10 miles, the "vehicle too low" message returned. I don't know if both front shocks are leaky, but I just ordered a pair from RMT.
Can always count on you all, thanks.

 

RMT shocks in, new control arm right side, PIA. This cold morning: Vehicle too low!

 

Seeing as you replaced the compressor, last summer, but not the bad shocks.
Six months trying to keep those shot shocks filled, just may have taken it's toll on it.
The compressor's compression ring replacement may fix your situation.

 

That's what I thought, but then there is quite a bit of air escaping at the top of one of the shocks. It lasted about a month until it got very cold in the area.

 

If your R M T shock is leaking, from what i have read, they stand behind their work.

Contact them if they leak.

The air lines do not take much to over tighten, so be careful, but check them first.

 

Called them earlier today, they are preparing a replacement.

 

Hear nothing but good reports on these people.

Arnott has had a few issues, from time to time also, but stand behind their product.

I personally have nothing bad to say about either one.

As their front shocks are on both of my Jaguars, & work very well

 

RMT stood by their product and sent a replacement shock right away.

Finally got it in today, along with new upper control arms both sides, no problems there.

But, here pictured is the reward, Yellow light along with CATS SYSTEM FAULT

...Almost starting to think I should have just done a conversion to conventional. Although the system pressurized well and both front wheels are at equal and adequate height. I never disconnected the battery, I do not like doing that.

The system seems to be working well except for the error message, and yes I did plug the shock back up.

I was hell getting one of the control arms nuts off, had to torch off the grease and rubber to grab the bolt so it would not turn along with the nut. The 5 MM hex key in the bolt being spun round.

 

Could be the compressor just timed out on you.
Try again in a few hours, the lite may not come on at all.
If the cars not setting low, you should be fine..
Keep at it you'll figure it out.

 

Thanks, compressor seems to be running fine. I think the check valve in the shock is worn or not good, or whatever it is that the two tiny wire connect to.

I did a test, took the RMT shock that was leaky and hooked it up instead, no errors at all. Gonna give it a drive into work tomorrow and that is it, then changing approach. When I am done, we will all learn some lessons at my expense.

Notice no yellow error light.

 

Believe you just may be fine, clear the codes.
You said it sets level now, so drive it and hopefully all is well.

 

I will try that, but the CATS system is stuck in hard mode. Bumpy ride.

If I disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, will it clear the CATS error codes?

Only thing is that as soon as I connect this strut, CATS fault comes right up with yellow light, the other strut, no error. Maybe it has a stuck solenoid valve.

 

If & when you disconnect the battery, after a few min's touch the ends together for a few seconds.
A hard reset may or not help, but won't hurt.
Be patient a hard thing to do, but you will get things squared away if you keep at it.